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cleaning bearings

Old 08-10-2020, 12:43 PM
  #31  
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Well WD40 is a great all purpose lubricant, also cleans, disperses water, and acts as a penetrant.

I recently switched to cleaning parts with simple green and an elma easy heated ultra sonic cleaner.

I do have a way of making my own graphite grease that has the same consistency as Hudy.


3 in 1 has got to be the best light weight oil for bearings, 3 in 1 has a teflon variant. For offroad I repack my bearings with kluber isoflex.

I do recommend standard chrome steel bearings on the inner hubs. If one dares to use ceramics in the hubs, you will have to shim out any in-out lash with no side to side pre-load, seems to last a lot longer.

I did have two inner Boca bearings fail do to the factory seal came loose from the metal under load and pushed the material into the race, I removed the seals and soaked in various chemicals, most of the material did come back out. Scoping with a 10x ocular I literally had to go into the bearing race and lightly scrap out what was left and got new seals, repacked with kluber and have been running them so far this season. The outer hub bearings don’t seems to be any different after almost two seasons.
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:48 PM
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For my skate bearings 3 in 1 is a bit heavy surprisingly. Tri flow is perfect.
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:24 PM
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Brake CLeaner.... Some Rubber gloves and one of these bic pens as the taper is perfect for about any 1/10th scale bearings. Spray and spin. Boom TQ and win guaranteed.



If its too cruchy. Replace it.
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Old 08-10-2020, 09:08 PM
  #34  
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Something I noticed in greased bearings- in order for the bearing to last the grease has to circulate. this is a combination of heat and the flow capability of the grease. if the grease is thick then it circulates around a tight radius of the ball. I have opened very old greased bearings that were packed pretty tight with grease and found grease that was circulating around the ball but was not circulating further from the ball and it acted as a barrier to dirt. Im thinking that I might start greasing again.
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Old 08-11-2020, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bry195 View Post
Something I noticed in greased bearings- in order for the bearing to last the grease has to circulate. this is a combination of heat and the flow capability of the grease. if the grease is thick then it circulates around a tight radius of the ball. I have opened very old greased bearings that were packed pretty tight with grease and found grease that was circulating around the ball but was not circulating further from the ball and it acted as a barrier to dirt. Im thinking that I might start greasing again.
i have been thinking that grease could be better if applied with the correct tool. Grease in the correct amount and applied with a clever way to smear it around the outside wall where the grove sits/rolls would result in longer lasting lubrication. The old saying " less is more " holds true for using grease in bearings. Too much and it can overheat the bearing. I've filled bearings with grease and overfilling is not recommended in my opinion.

if light oil leaks out of the bearing after a couple of runs, not many bearings will last long. Some racers use no seals, and if conditions are not in your favour, not being able to finish a race because of a bad bearing, well I guess some still take the chance.
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
i have been thinking that grease could be better if applied with the correct tool. Grease in the correct amount and applied with a clever way to smear it around the outside wall where the grove sits/rolls would result in longer lasting lubrication. The old saying " less is more " holds true for using grease in bearings. Too much and it can overheat the bearing. I've filled bearings with grease and overfilling is not recommended in my opinion.

if light oil leaks out of the bearing after a couple of runs, not many bearings will last long. Some racers use no seals, and if conditions are not in your favour, not being able to finish a race because of a bad bearing, well I guess some still take the chance.
I had no idea. thats interesting. so using the grease as a secondary shield against dirt might cause overheating?
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Old 09-29-2020, 06:01 AM
  #37  
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Depends on what bearings we are talking about. My Avid ceramic bearings, I toss in the blue vibrating thing with citrus cleaner for about 20 minutes, then rinse with water. Pat dry then lightly dry with a heat gun. Do not spin them until you put bearing oil in them. The $1 bearings by Avid, just toss them and put in new bearings. Pretty much the $1 Avid bearings are really good. They come packed with grease and will last a long time without maintenance, when they go bad it is generally because of smacking the walls.
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Old 09-29-2020, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
All stuff that lubricates will work. If I mention WD40 then many people dare to say it does not lubricates bacause it has no oil. WD40 does contain oil and works very well on bearings. Also with 1/18 scale racing I used oneway bearing oil on my bearings. Also many people can say it is too thin and will be thrown out of the bearing while my own experience says different, I had the lightest running car. I also know people using a simple motor oil mixed with a cleaning gasoline.

All will work!
You must have a different WD40 over there. .. Or you spray your bearings A LOT. When ever I have used wd40 on anything, it dries out and dust / dirt sticks to it making it worse.
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Old 09-29-2020, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
I have a vibrating bath which I fill with WD40



(original from Team Titan)

The dirt will drop out and the bearing is lubed with WD40.
wd40 evaporates I find good for freeing off seized item or cleaning but u need to add bearing oil or be like running them dry

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Old 12-22-2020, 08:19 PM
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bottom bearing is 6 months of use. brake cleaner and oil. top bearing is brand new. it also happens to be ceramic. its pretty amazing how scratched up bearings get. but that could also be the brake cleaner. by the way. I used a stronger solvent on the used bearing just to see if brake cleaner was doing a great job. the stronger solvent pulled allot more crap out of a bearing that was cleaned with brake cleaner and air first.


I melted ceram speed grease into the upper bearing and installed today. ill check in a couple of months. it takes about 250c to get the grease to flow into the bearings. the greased bearings also had more resistance than oiled.
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Old 12-23-2020, 12:16 AM
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Small glass jar, put bearings, spray with WD40, shake vigorously, drain dirty WD40, repeat till clean. Then I oil with Mobil1.
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Old 12-23-2020, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mrreet2001 View Post
You must have a different WD40 over there. .. Or you spray your bearings A LOT. When ever I have used wd40 on anything, it dries out and dust / dirt sticks to it making it worse.
Some of the WD-40 components evaporates but it leaves behind an oil residue. That's what the dust/dirt is sticking to.
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Old 12-23-2020, 03:15 PM
  #43  
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I used to go through all the cleaning and drying and cleaning again.... But the they didnt last that long, I would go through about 4 sets a year. One day I decided to try just lubing them.
Now all I do is I clean the outside with cleaning putty, open one side, put some lube(I use Xceed Premium Lube), then put the seal back. I concluded that they didn't last because they NEED the grease in them.
I no longer remove the grease. When one goes I replace it, or get a new set, but they last much longer.

Ceramic bearings wont make anybody faster. To me the benefit is the that they're lighter, and IMO, the last longer too. I bought a set for a car years ago, that set lasted for about 4 years, I sold the car they were currently on and forgot to take them off.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:25 PM
  #44  
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I change bearings when I get about 1/2 to 3/4 a degree of slop (camber) as measured on a setup stand. the ceramic bearings have less play to begin with and they really arenít that expensive.
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