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Old 03-23-2006, 06:06 PM   #31
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same issue bro , this is a problem , i didnt expect this spending $400 , alot of people are having these issues , i emailed xray and they told me to just retighten screws , who wants to retighten screws every run ? this is bs , someone has to make this right , i ordered a top deck fron pickles tonight so ill see if that works for me , if not im getting a new car
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:12 PM   #32
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I have heard mixed feelings on just replacing the top deck! Some guys said it fixed the issue and others have said they still have the same problem. You might have to go to a BMI kit, Let the rest of us know what you do to fix the situation.
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:53 PM   #33
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bmi kits are on back order so i have one coming when hes done , guess ill start a new racing class at my track called peeling out, lol , id win every time
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:02 PM   #34
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I had major tweek issues with my car too when I first got it and so did every other driver at my track.

The problem is that Xray drilled the holes in the top deck so damn large that there is so much room for play. So the top deck would shift. Everytime I would hit something. The car would spin out in one direction. Immediate sign of a tweeked car or major chunks in one of your foams.

The best fix of all was the Team Pickles top deck. NO MORE TWEEK ISSUES..
The top deck is awesome. When you put the screws into the top deck they actually thread into it so there is no slop in the top deck to tweek the car...
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Old 03-23-2006, 11:18 PM   #35
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I have been running my T2 since the middle of January... all on medium to high bite carpet with foam tires. I NEVER had a tweak issue... however I do have a Stiff Pickle top deck... to stiffen the car and I think this does help with preventing tweak also.
I put my car on the tweak scale before every run and so far I only had to adj to compensate for the tire wear. So far the stock chassis has been fine but I will probably get a 3mm sooner or later.
I never could figure out why one guy will have major problems and the next has none
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:12 AM   #36
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im going to counter sink top deck to see if theres any diff for now until i get top deck , any specific way to do it ?
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:31 AM   #37
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Definately use a drill press and make sure the table is squared up first.
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:49 AM   #38
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if you read back in some of these posts , all the factory guys and BMI are not counter sinking the holes, if you do that and the car tweaks it will not untweak during the run, just check it out for sure before you do it.
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:02 AM   #39
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it dosent untweak anyway , its worth a try i got a bmi coming sdo i can drill this one in the mean time
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Old 03-24-2006, 12:46 PM   #40
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i didnt mean "untweak" in the same sense, but that the top deck moves.
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:18 PM   #41
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BMI top deck and shock towers are countersunk
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Old 03-24-2006, 04:12 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
I had major tweek issues with my car too when I first got it and so did every other driver at my track.

The problem is that Xray drilled the holes in the top deck so damn large that there is so much room for play. So the top deck would shift. Everytime I would hit something. The car would spin out in one direction. Immediate sign of a tweeked car or major chunks in one of your foams.

The best fix of all was the Team Pickles top deck. NO MORE TWEEK ISSUES..
The top deck is awesome. When you put the screws into the top deck they actually thread into it so there is no slop in the top deck to tweek the car...
the reason i would believe that xray drilled holes that are slightly larger than the threads on the screws is to allow a little movement for adjustment due to the tolerances on the parts in the assembly.you also cant have the holes too tight because if you thread a screw into carbon fiber,it will cause it to swell around the hole.forcing a screw through a hole is similar to roll form threading which actually forms the thread in the hole instead of cutting it.it is commonly used in many materials but carbon fiber is not malable.the material is forced to go somewhere and this will form internal stress cracks.i would suggest using a 3x5mm cut tap in the holes on your top deck before inserting screws to assure that there is no swelling from the c/f being displaced.i would also lightly counter sink the top of the hole to clear the radius on the underside of the screw heads.i have heard alot of good things about that top deck though.you cant go wrong.im just offering a little heads up.
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Old 03-24-2006, 04:17 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dal bains
BMI top deck and shock towers are countersunk
Ey como esta mi ....
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Old 03-24-2006, 04:53 PM   #44
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I see a few of you mention undoing the shock tower screws to check it has not moved.

Instead of pushing down on the shock tower and tightening, i recommend that you lift the car up using the shock tower then tighten the screws. The force acting on the shock tower when the car is on the floor is an upward one so thats where it always wants to move. So, put it in the position in the first place
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Old 03-24-2006, 05:23 PM   #45
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^Good point^
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