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Old 03-22-2006, 11:49 PM   #16
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I have had incidents where my suspension binding was causing a tweak. Check to m ake sure everything moves freely. On the 05 the servo saver post would get bent almost inperceptable and that would induce twaek. I would imagine that would be tough with the T2's being so short though. GL
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:22 AM   #17
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One thing I noticed this week running carpet with small tires is that sometimes as the arm is on the down travel, the shock wouldn't allow the arms to fall enough for the droop screw to touch the chassis. Thus on the track, one side would wash out due to not as much droop on one side.

The adjustable clickers would fall between clicks and not allow the shock to rebound all the way. I just unscrewed the shock ends two turns on each side and it went away (also hold bottom eyelet still and twist top part of shock while on the car, and the piston will drop into place. )

Also check your servo mounts. If you don't have holes lined up perfect before nstallation (posts perfectly upright) it will pull the chassis causing it to tweak. Your posts would slightly look like this \ / but could cause major tweak. Check these two things out.
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:35 AM   #18
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soethings wrong , itook all the screws out and tighten everything back up and it was perfect , then i twist the chassis lightly with my hands and its out of wack bad , if i tighten the screws any more they will stip ,
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:46 AM   #19
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There is a new tip concerning chassis tweak in the T2 Knowledgebase.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:20 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by stumper1
My biggest tweak problem seemed to be from the front shock tower. Loosen everything as mentioned above AND the shock towers. Proceed as above and tighten the shock towers last - while still pushing down on them. Worked for me. Good luck!
This is where mine was.Took about 2 hours to find the problem and fix it.

The real problem is the multi-flex cutouts under the bulkheads.When on high bite tracks and the chassis flexes,this forces the bulkheads to shift slightly in any direction.Every time you turn your car ,the bulkheads shift again.. in another direction.. causing an inconsistant car.
This of course,is MUCH worse if you hit the wall or another car.
The chassis dictates everything,including shock tower placement.If the right side bulkheads move more than the left side this will cause the shock towers to move,causing tweak...again.

The ONLY way to help this from happening is to replace the chassis....with one without cutouts in it OR.....

After EVERY run,relax all the screws attached to the bulkheads(including the ones under the chassis,shock towers,topdeck and standoffs...everything),twist the car slightly back and forth,place the car on a flat surface and tighten everything back up.

Solid chassis=NO bulkhead movement=no tweak=consistant car.(unless you hit something hard enough)

Last edited by Twin-Kyle; 03-23-2006 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:25 AM   #21
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:33 AM   #22
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I don't see all the problems. Just countersink the top plate and the shock towers. I haven't had any trouble since.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:43 AM   #23
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Well I will be the first one to come on and say, I too had ALOT of tweak issuse with my car when I first built it.

But after sitting down with it for a few hours after the first build. I have gotten the car to not tweak at all....

It has been ran for two race weekends and I have not had the first tweak from it since.

What I found was that I just needed to undo all the screws top and bottom and make sure that the Bulkheads were square from the beginning. I found out that they were twisted during the first build.

To figure this out I measured from the edge of the chassis to the inside and outside of each bulkhead, front middle and back of each. Once I got them all square and Tight... No more tweak issuses for me...

Hope this helps out someone else..
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Old 03-23-2006, 01:36 PM   #24
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For the shock issue not letting the arms go down far enough, just replace the rear shocks ends with the longer ends that come in the kit (the ones they say not to use). They are just a little longer so they make the shock longer. I only needed them for the rear shocks. R.W.
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Old 03-23-2006, 02:58 PM   #25
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what would be the results if i add more droop in the front? vice versa
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Old 03-23-2006, 03:13 PM   #26
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do you adj droop acording to tweak or to a set height 5 and 4 mm
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Old 03-23-2006, 03:30 PM   #27
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to a set height..

i just want to know the effects of droop whenever i add more/less on both ends..
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Old 03-23-2006, 03:36 PM   #28
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Red face

I pondered the droop question about a week ago, and then it dawned on me. Set the drop with one end of the shock off so that the arms have full mobility, then set your droop. Ex. Pre-Determined Ride Height Front = 5 mm with 3 mm of Droop. Your droop should be 2 mm on your Guage. You want all the droop setting accurate so that when you go to set the tweak on the car the setting wheels lift in unison. No matter how well you put your shocks together you'll still have some variables. ex. fluid levels, shock lengths, and spring rates.

For the other question: I have to thank a fellow racer for opening my eyes to it. Front droop controls on power characteristics. Rear droop controls off power characteristics.

I think I am pretty close with the concepts, but when I saw this I was interested in others opions too. So please don't shoot me if I am off base with any of this.

Hope this might shed some light :-)
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Old 03-23-2006, 03:49 PM   #29
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how can i set with out a droop guage , can i take tires off and just use ride guage ?
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Old 03-23-2006, 04:49 PM   #30
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I too had a tweak issue as well, if I flipped the car over and looked down the length of the car it twisted from right to left (corkscrew). Mine to would spin out off throttle when making a righ turn. I did just about everything you guys mentioned to try and get rid of it. Then found that if I loosened up the bottom screws in the bulkheads and the servo mounts, then re-tightened the entire car the problem went away (for now).
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