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Old 03-23-2006, 04:08 PM   #31
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Default old school

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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
dont forget this one

...i'm having flasbacks of No.2 pencil erasers. and that icky smell..
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Old 03-23-2006, 09:42 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by DaveW
AH! And this is why these forums exist... There are a few locals that run the KO speedie and DONT use the cap or the diode... are the consequences the same as it would be for any other speedie required to run them? The KO with a cap is close in size to my GT7... i agree with not upgrading for the sake of upgrading... so are there any real benefits other than the tunability of the KO?
With regards to the consequences, I'm not sure about the other speedos. But the capacitor and diode included in the VFS-1 package are meant to be installed on the VFS-1. It's not just upgarde but rather making it part of the unit. The included shotki diode has a value of 15A. Good for running stock to 15T motors. Upgrading the shotki to a higer value would have the benefit of running lower turn mod motors and allowing the VFS-1 to perform at it's best. Plus setting it up on the computer to the user's prefered profile.

Doing all these are not just for the sake of upgarding, but having your personal choice of setting depending on the car that you use and the different types of track conditions.

Another benefit is when KO releases new updates and profiles for the VFS-1, all you need to to do is download it and input on the unit. Meaning no more need of buying new speedos in the future. I also heard that KO are coming up with a new program setting for Li-Po settings. This is good for those people who have started using Li-Pos on their VFS-1. It will probably boost the performance of the VFS-1 on Li-Po batts.

Generally, there is a good reason and big purpose why the VFS-1 is a bit more complicated when setting it up compared to other brushed speedos.

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Old 03-23-2006, 10:14 PM   #33
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This is exactly why I like the "Old School" Speedos. I won't upgrade from my C2's or 7.1's until I have too. The only way I will, is for a brushless/brushed combo unit.JM.02
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:28 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by BeetleBailey
This is exactly why I like the "Old School" Speedos. I won't upgrade from my C2's or 7.1's until I have too. The only way I will, is for a brushless/brushed combo unit.JM.02
Your preference is understood but very soon, your C2 or 7.1 will be outdated especially when newer Novak and LRP programable ESCs come out. So better get an ESC that can be programmed and upgraded.

Brushless systems are indeed the the higher level of ESC and motor technology but many users say that brushed motors are still faster and torquey. Is this true?

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Old 03-24-2006, 02:59 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MrUnlimited
I miss Mtroniks Cirrus pro

Agreed, I love mine.

Small, waterproof, bulletproof, heaps of adjustment and low IR
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:05 PM   #36
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Blue IS Better

I love my QC2. Small, waterproof, great profiles, and it's blue
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:09 PM   #37
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G-11 PRO BABY !!!!!

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Old 03-25-2006, 01:12 AM   #38
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Keyence Rapida Pro (1st) & KO VFS-1 Pro Comp (2nd)
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:00 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCtor
Blue IS Better

I love my QC2. Small, waterproof, great profiles, and it's blue
i'm absolutely agree with you...once again...Blue is better
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:24 PM   #40
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BANG!

my esc just phowned yours!
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:09 PM   #41
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Blue IS Better


LRP QC1 and QC2 are probably the smallest b/c they don't need a big capacitor to operate correctly. The GTX is actually a fairly big esc b/c the capacitor is so big and must be placed somewhere on the car.
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:12 PM   #42
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Blue is Faster, Get a Q2, or wait for the Q3
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:58 PM   #43
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:09 PM   #44
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Ive had a qc2 and a gtx. I only got the gtx because the qc2 blew up for what was probably my fault, the positive wire broke off of the esc. LRP said it shouldnt have blown up on their website, but AE said it should have. The QC2 never seemed very responsive to changes in the settings, it only has punch control, initial brake, and drag brake. I never messed around with the reactive setting much (punch control level 4), but I basically left it in punch contol level 5 all of the time even with mod (Im running offroad). The GTX has adjustable drive frequency, brake frequency, minimum drive, initial brake, drag brake, and dead band. You can really feel the difference when you change settings and it helps you tune the car to the track with the motor that you're running. Mabey there was something wrong with my QC2, but punch control settings didnt really do much and if anything made the car feel weird. The main reason I got the GTX over the G11 is because the Tekin website is horrible and that doesnt say much for their company, and there was a problem with the bec circuit blowing because it was unlimited, and their response was that that was the result of them giving the servos all the power they asked for (well if its gonna blow up then its not a good thing that you're doing for the customer). I dont know if they fixed that and I know its not common, but Im not willing to take the chance. It also took me two weeks of asking and searching to find out how the cutoff on their tray works. If not for these reasons, I probably would have bought the G11, because it has lower resistance and is easier to adjust. The gtx isnt too bad to adjust though, compared to the QC2 and you can change settings track side. There a decal on it that says what all the lighting combos mean, but its much more of a pain to do.
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:55 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCtor
Blue IS Better

I love my QC2. Small, waterproof, great profiles, and it's blue
There is a blue VFS-1 and model name is VOLAC by Tamiya. Now that's better!

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