Like Tree1108Likes

Exotek F1ultra

Old 12-09-2020, 02:19 PM
  #526  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (88)
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,045
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by robk View Post
Tamiya
53601
Awesome, Thank you very Much!
MUDVAYNE is offline  
Old 12-09-2020, 04:24 PM
  #527  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 9
Default

Just had the opportunity to give my newly built f1ultra a shakedown yesterday. Hoping I can get some guidance or ideas on resolving understeering and braking issue. The car is fast on the straights, but the mid corner grip just isnt there, and it washes/pushes out the front wheels. On mid-hard braking, the rear kicks out to the right (nose points left) which makes it a bit sketchy and induce some butt clenching at the end of the straights.

Current settings:
  • Toe out: 1deg
  • Camber: -1.0 deg
  • Tires: Volante (green dot) rear, Volante (purple dot) front
  • Ackerman- mild (default position)
  • I added 2mm spacer at both ends of the center shock so it clears the esc fan.
  • Stock 86t spur, 29t pinion, steel exotek driveshaft (thanks Mike!)
  • Castor 9deg.
Body/elec:
  • Serpent front wing (lowest downforce)
  • Serpent rear wings (mid setting)
  • WRC F18.2 F1 Body shell
  • Hobbywing Pro stock esc and G3R 21.5t motor

The track is purpose built asphalt, low-mid grip. Didnt measure track temp, but air temp was around 23degC (approx 72degF) and sunny. I used tyre warmers with ATS additive).

I was going to:
  • Camber 2deg
  • Caster 11deg
  • Toe out 1.5deg
  • Ackerman medium setting
  • Change the tires to Ride GR's all around.
  • Tighten ball diff (improve braking?)
Anything else i should do or any advice on which order you would recommend?

(Sorry, can't post any pics due to post count etc)




b3dlam is offline  
Old 12-09-2020, 05:30 PM
  #528  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
 
mtveten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,769
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

start with tires, your description sounds like you are lacking mechanical grip.
ddevey and b3dlam like this.
mtveten is offline  
Old 12-09-2020, 05:47 PM
  #529  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,793
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by b3dlam View Post
Just had the opportunity to give my newly built f1ultra a shakedown yesterday. Hoping I can get some guidance or ideas on resolving understeering and braking issue. The car is fast on the straights, but the mid corner grip just isnt there, and it washes/pushes out the front wheels. On mid-hard braking, the rear kicks out to the right (nose points left) which makes it a bit sketchy and induce some butt clenching at the end of the straights.

Current settings:
  • Toe out: 1deg
  • Camber: -1.0 deg
  • Tires: Volante (green dot) rear, Volante (purple dot) front
  • Ackerman- mild (default position)
  • I added 2mm spacer at both ends of the center shock so it clears the esc fan.
  • Stock 86t spur, 29t pinion, steel exotek driveshaft (thanks Mike!)
  • Castor 9deg.
Body/elec:
  • Serpent front wing (lowest downforce)
  • Serpent rear wings (mid setting)
  • WRC F18.2 F1 Body shell
  • Hobbywing Pro stock esc and G3R 21.5t motor

The track is purpose built asphalt, low-mid grip. Didnt measure track temp, but air temp was around 23degC (approx 72degF) and sunny. I used tyre warmers with ATS additive).

I was going to:
  • Camber 2deg
  • Caster 11deg
  • Toe out 1.5deg
  • Ackerman medium setting
  • Change the tires to Ride GR's all around.
  • Tighten ball diff (improve braking?)
Anything else i should do or any advice on which order you would recommend?

(Sorry, can't post any pics due to post count etc)
Those are pretty hard compound to be running unless your track is ultra grippy. Im running blue fronts and yellow rears on a low-med grip asphalt track and that seem to work well. would run even softer when weather gets colder.

Braking generally for pan car style chassis is pretty sketchy since its almost like you are doing hand brake turns. Dial back the brake force so you dont lock up the rear and add in some drag braking to help slow down the car in turns. That should make the car a bit more drivable.
b3dlam likes this.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 12-09-2020, 05:51 PM
  #530  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Plantation, FL
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by b3dlam View Post
Just had the opportunity to give my newly built f1ultra a shakedown yesterday. Hoping I can get some guidance or ideas on resolving understeering and braking issue. The car is fast on the straights, but the mid corner grip just isnt there, and it washes/pushes out the front wheels. On mid-hard braking, the rear kicks out to the right (nose points left) which makes it a bit sketchy and induce some butt clenching at the end of the straights.

Current settings:
  • Toe out: 1deg
  • Camber: -1.0 deg
  • Tires: Volante (green dot) rear, Volante (purple dot) front
  • Ackerman- mild (default position)
  • I added 2mm spacer at both ends of the center shock so it clears the esc fan.
  • Stock 86t spur, 29t pinion, steel exotek driveshaft (thanks Mike!)
  • Castor 9deg.
Body/elec:
  • Serpent front wing (lowest downforce)
  • Serpent rear wings (mid setting)
  • WRC F18.2 F1 Body shell
  • Hobbywing Pro stock esc and G3R 21.5t motor

The track is purpose built asphalt, low-mid grip. Didnt measure track temp, but air temp was around 23degC (approx 72degF) and sunny. I used tyre warmers with ATS additive).

I was going to:
  • Camber 2deg
  • Caster 11deg
  • Toe out 1.5deg
  • Ackerman medium setting
  • Change the tires to Ride GR's all around.
  • Tighten ball diff (improve braking?)
Anything else i should do or any advice on which order you would recommend?

(Sorry, can't post any pics due to post count etc)
1. My first concern is your selection of front and rear tires. I've only use volante white rears and blue fronts successfully.
2. Which front springs? I use the 1.5 X-ray springs. They are pretty soft but seem to let the front dig in enough for corner entry and the soft white volante tires will grip enough not to over rotate in the turns. I use the same combination of springs for our Gravity RC spec tires, which work well in the Florida sun.
3. Which side springs? I use the yellow with 300wt oil. The yellow springs produce a bit more steering because it takes away from the front grip.

Also find the best tire prep method. I have found that Mighty grip yellow works better than SXT or tire tweak. The car is easier to drive when I use Mighty grip.
One other thing is I slow down a bit more in the turns especially after a straight.
b3dlam likes this.
astgerma52sp is offline  
Old 12-09-2020, 06:43 PM
  #531  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
 
WaWa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: kennewick, Wa
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Can anyone confirm that the short chassis maintains the OG chassis front body mounting position?

Thanks!
WaWa
WaWa is offline  
Old 12-09-2020, 07:31 PM
  #532  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,793
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by WaWa View Post
Can anyone confirm that the short chassis maintains the OG chassis front body mounting position?

Thanks!
WaWa
Yes
disaster999 is offline  
Old 12-10-2020, 06:49 AM
  #533  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (88)
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,045
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone run a fan for the motor and if so how are you mounting it?
MUDVAYNE is offline  
Old 12-10-2020, 07:44 AM
  #534  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 271
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Does anyone run a fan for the motor and if so how are you mounting it?
MikeR incorporated a mount into the design for us. 😁



MikeR and JCarr like this.
Red141 is online now  
Old 12-11-2020, 12:39 AM
  #535  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
 
mocrawlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Goodson, Mo
Posts: 525
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Ok, got electronics in this thing finally. Sanwa Super Votex Gen2 Pro without fan, Sanwa 482 reciever, KO response RSx3 servo. And Reedy 25.5 motor and Orion LCG battery.

is there a video or something other than the one confusing pic in manual(that doesnít tell you how to hold the car) to measure side shock droop? I see where you are measuring it, but does the rear pod hang, or ? Iím lost here. LoL



mocrawlin is offline  
Old 12-11-2020, 07:18 AM
  #536  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Plantation, FL
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

rc.F1.blog

Not a video but an alternative to setup, which is easier to follow.
Rick Vessell and MUDVAYNE like this.
astgerma52sp is offline  
Old 12-11-2020, 11:43 AM
  #537  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
 
WaWa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: kennewick, Wa
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

What's the thought behind the one bolt holding down the front wing? I have seen guys hit the wall and bend the wing into the tires... is the material not strong enough for a second hole?
WaWa is offline  
Old 12-11-2020, 03:22 PM
  #538  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
shadowracer24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: lakeland fla.
Posts: 859
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I had that keep happening on mine so i took a 3 mm button head screw and ground down the top just enough to clear the bulkhead and ran it in from the top threading it into the chassis until flush with the bottom. No more issues after doing this.
shadowracer24 is offline  
Old 12-12-2020, 12:12 AM
  #539  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
 
mocrawlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Goodson, Mo
Posts: 525
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Well, I took the Ultra F1 to the track tonight with little expectations due to there being several fast guys there every race. I threw the thing down with Arrowmax 24R tires and it was terrible. LoL

so, I switched to my TCS tires on the rear, and shortened up the center shock, put on the soft black side springs and added a little preload in the side shocks, added a little caster by shortening the gap at the turnbuckle 1mm to 7.5mm. Put the factory front springs on, .5mm droop up front and .9mm droop at side shock eyelets. 5mm ride height front to rear. Loosened the diff a bit till it slipped for 3-4 feet. The car came to life. i went from terrible and in last after 1st RD, to second place qualifier in the second round. And I ended up winning the A-main.

I will say that the front ball cups are not very good. After just a few races they are sloppy! So I have the Tamiya 53601 cups ordered. My high dollar servo felt like a $20 plastic geared Hitec all night. LoL drifting left and right all night down the straight.


mocrawlin is offline  
Old 12-13-2020, 10:59 AM
  #540  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
 
mtveten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,769
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by WaWa View Post
What's the thought behind the one bolt holding down the front wing? I have seen guys hit the wall and bend the wing into the tires... is the material not strong enough for a second hole?
the wing tucks into the bulkhead giving it a secure fit with one screw similar to how it fits on the F103 & f104 cars.
mtveten is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.