MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Awesome, Thank you very Much!

b3dlam

Just had the opportunity to give my newly built f1ultra a shakedown yesterday. Hoping I can get some guidance or ideas on resolving understeering and braking issue. The car is fast on the straights, but the mid corner grip just isnt there, and it washes/pushes out the front wheels. On mid-hard braking, the rear kicks out to the right (nose points left) which makes it a bit sketchy and induce some butt clenching at the end of the straights.

Current settings:

• Toe out: 1deg
• Camber: -1.0 deg
• Tires: Volante (green dot) rear, Volante (purple dot) front
• Ackerman- mild (default position)
• I added 2mm spacer at both ends of the center shock so it clears the esc fan.
• Stock 86t spur, 29t pinion, steel exotek driveshaft (thanks Mike!)
• Castor 9deg.

Body/elec:

• Serpent front wing (lowest downforce)
• Serpent rear wings (mid setting)
• WRC F18.2 F1 Body shell
• Hobbywing Pro stock esc and G3R 21.5t motor

The track is purpose built asphalt, low-mid grip. Didnt measure track temp, but air temp was around 23degC (approx 72degF) and sunny. I used tyre warmers with ATS additive).

I was going to:

• Camber 2deg
• Caster 11deg
• Toe out 1.5deg
• Ackerman medium setting
• Change the tires to Ride GR's all around.
• Tighten ball diff (improve braking?)

Anything else i should do or any advice on which order you would recommend?

(Sorry, can't post any pics due to post count etc)

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

start with tires, your description sounds like you are lacking mechanical grip.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Those are pretty hard compound to be running unless your track is ultra grippy. Im running blue fronts and yellow rears on a low-med grip asphalt track and that seem to work well. would run even softer when weather gets colder.

Braking generally for pan car style chassis is pretty sketchy since its almost like you are doing hand brake turns. Dial back the brake force so you dont lock up the rear and add in some drag braking to help slow down the car in turns. That should make the car a bit more drivable.

astgerma52sp

iTrader: (17)

1. My first concern is your selection of front and rear tires. I've only use volante white rears and blue fronts successfully.
2. Which front springs? I use the 1.5 X-ray springs. They are pretty soft but seem to let the front dig in enough for corner entry and the soft white volante tires will grip enough not to over rotate in the turns. I use the same combination of springs for our Gravity RC spec tires, which work well in the Florida sun.
3. Which side springs? I use the yellow with 300wt oil. The yellow springs produce a bit more steering because it takes away from the front grip.

Also find the best tire prep method. I have found that Mighty grip yellow works better than SXT or tire tweak. The car is easier to drive when I use Mighty grip.
One other thing is I slow down a bit more in the turns especially after a straight.

WaWa

iTrader: (21)

Can anyone confirm that the short chassis maintains the OG chassis front body mounting position?

Thanks!
WaWa

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Yes

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Does anyone run a fan for the motor and if so how are you mounting it?

Red141

iTrader: (17)

MikeR incorporated a mount into the design for us. 😁

mocrawlin

iTrader: (24)

Ok, got electronics in this thing finally. Sanwa Super Votex Gen2 Pro without fan, Sanwa 482 reciever, KO response RSx3 servo. And Reedy 25.5 motor and Orion LCG battery.

is there a video or something other than the one confusing pic in manual(that doesn’t tell you how to hold the car) to measure side shock droop? I see where you are measuring it, but does the rear pod hang, or ? I’m lost here. LoL

astgerma52sp

iTrader: (17)

rc.F1.blog

Not a video but an alternative to setup, which is easier to follow.

WaWa

iTrader: (21)

What's the thought behind the one bolt holding down the front wing? I have seen guys hit the wall and bend the wing into the tires... is the material not strong enough for a second hole?

shadowracer24

iTrader: (3)

I had that keep happening on mine so i took a 3 mm button head screw and ground down the top just enough to clear the bulkhead and ran it in from the top threading it into the chassis until flush with the bottom. No more issues after doing this.

mocrawlin

iTrader: (24)

Well, I took the Ultra F1 to the track tonight with little expectations due to there being several fast guys there every race. I threw the thing down with Arrowmax 24R tires and it was terrible. LoL

so, I switched to my TCS tires on the rear, and shortened up the center shock, put on the soft black side springs and added a little preload in the side shocks, added a little caster by shortening the gap at the turnbuckle 1mm to 7.5mm. Put the factory front springs on, .5mm droop up front and .9mm droop at side shock eyelets. 5mm ride height front to rear. Loosened the diff a bit till it slipped for 3-4 feet. The car came to life. i went from terrible and in last after 1st RD, to second place qualifier in the second round. And I ended up winning the A-main.

I will say that the front ball cups are not very good. After just a few races they are sloppy! So I have the Tamiya 53601 cups ordered. My high dollar servo felt like a $20 plastic geared Hitec all night. LoL drifting left and right all night down the straight.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

the wing tucks into the bulkhead giving it a secure fit with one screw similar to how it fits on the F103 & f104 cars.