680LikesNew Tamiya Chassis TC-01
12-05-2020, 09:50 PM - Wikipost
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07-07-2022, 01:25 PM
#811
Originally Posted by KeefeinVA
I've built several Tamiya cars in the past (just finished a TA-08 that runs great). I just ordered the TC-01. I want to run it in my local 21.5t TC club race. I have a question around replacing the kit JIS screws with hex head screws. Do I need to tap the holes with a M3 tap first or are the plastics soft enough that I can just build it with stainless steel or ti hex head screws? If I were to build it with kit JIS screws, could I move over to stainless/ti/aluminum screws later? I presume that would be fine but I don't know if the kit JIS screws are a different diameter than typical M3? Thanks!
07-07-2022, 01:27 PM
#812
Originally Posted by Nerobro
So a few things here. First JIS is the screw head. Not the thread type. Most JIS screws from tamiya are self tapping, and like a .75mm thread pitch. The machine thread screws are 0.5mm thread pitch. Once you've built a car with the self tapping screws, it's a poor idea to do it with machine screws later. (you can get machine thread screws with JIS heads too, and you get a few from tamiya in most kits..)
If you're going to go with machine thread screws, do it from the beginning.
If you're going to do anything with machine screws, get a thread forming tap. They're about $7. They save you both time, and stop you from stripping the screw holes. Thread forming taps don't remove plastic, they just push it aside. With a thread formed, when your screw bottoms out, you know it, instead of kinda getting a "squish" when it bottoms out.
If you decide to stick with the self tapping screws. Use a little grease on the threads, for the same reason you'd tap the hole for machine screws.
If you're going to go with machine thread screws, do it from the beginning.
If you're going to do anything with machine screws, get a thread forming tap. They're about $7. They save you both time, and stop you from stripping the screw holes. Thread forming taps don't remove plastic, they just push it aside. With a thread formed, when your screw bottoms out, you know it, instead of kinda getting a "squish" when it bottoms out.
If you decide to stick with the self tapping screws. Use a little grease on the threads, for the same reason you'd tap the hole for machine screws.
08-24-2022, 02:22 PM
#813
Tech Rookie
Guys, I'm Marcelo from Brazil and I'm building my TC-01, but I'm having some problems to get the diff's adjustment...
I put tb05 diff cups in aluminum and metal gears, but it's not running loose, can anyone help me what it could be?
I'm using 2000 oil in the rear and 7000 in the front.
ah... i couldn't install cvd 39 and 42... any tips? thanks
I put tb05 diff cups in aluminum and metal gears, but it's not running loose, can anyone help me what it could be?
I'm using 2000 oil in the rear and 7000 in the front.
ah... i couldn't install cvd 39 and 42... any tips? thanks
08-24-2022, 09:53 PM
#814
Originally Posted by marcelotrindade
Guys, I'm Marcelo from Brazil and I'm building my TC-01, but I'm having some problems to get the diff's adjustment...
I put tb05 diff cups in aluminum and metal gears, but it's not running loose, can anyone help me what it could be?
I'm using 2000 oil in the rear and 7000 in the front.
ah... i couldn't install cvd 39 and 42... any tips? thanks
I put tb05 diff cups in aluminum and metal gears, but it's not running loose, can anyone help me what it could be?
I'm using 2000 oil in the rear and 7000 in the front.
ah... i couldn't install cvd 39 and 42... any tips? thanks
You will need to use 39mm shafts for the rear if you are using the aluminum cups, you need to account for the plastic clip on the drive shaft
Last edited by disaster999; 08-24-2022 at 10:05 PM.
08-25-2022, 07:40 AM
#815
don't know if it makes a difference, but the TC-01 uses TB-04 diff components
08-25-2022, 07:52 AM
#816
Yep, not the best offering from Tamiya... the new XV-02/TT-02 gear diffs are pretty decent.
08-25-2022, 08:42 AM
#817
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by disaster999
sometimes the diff needs to be broken in esp with metal gears due to the gears being cast and the rough edges needs to sanded/worn in for the diff to run smoothly. If the diff isnt operating smoothly after you upgraded with metal gears you can run the diff in a drill to accelerate the break in progress. Keep in mind the diff oil should be replaced after you think the diff is sufficiently broken in as there might be a lot of metal shavings in the oil. Also the gears might be too close together and you might need to play around with the shims inside the diff so the gears have the right amount of spacing between them.
You will need to use 39mm shafts for the rear if you are using the aluminum cups, you need to account for the plastic clip on the drive shaft
You will need to use 39mm shafts for the rear if you are using the aluminum cups, you need to account for the plastic clip on the drive shaft
I'm going to run it for a few moments, turn it off, disassemble and see how the gears were, and then change the oil.
one thing crossed my mind.. those red EVA pads can tighten the diff if the axles are too tight. This can cause excess friction too, right?
thanks
08-26-2022, 01:45 PM
#818
Originally Posted by Dan
Yep, not the best offering from Tamiya... the new XV-02/TT-02 gear diffs are pretty decent.
08-26-2022, 11:58 PM
#819
I don't think so. I believe the XV-02/TT-02 diffs are physically larger.
08-30-2022, 11:54 AM
#820
I have a question about stabilizers in this car: do they work as in other touring cars?
the behavior i am used to is, if i disconnect the dampers from the arms, and i lift one arm up, the opposing arm should raise as well. i have built the car and the stabilizers according to instructions and even if i completely raise the arm the other side barely moves.
what could i have done wrong?
the behavior i am used to is, if i disconnect the dampers from the arms, and i lift one arm up, the opposing arm should raise as well. i have built the car and the stabilizers according to instructions and even if i completely raise the arm the other side barely moves.
what could i have done wrong?
08-30-2022, 11:59 AM
#821
Originally Posted by zuqbu
I have a question about stabilizers in this car: do they work as in other touring cars?
the behavior i am used to is, if i disconnect the dampers from the arms, and i lift one arm up, the opposing arm should raise as well. i have built the car and the stabilizers according to instructions and even if i completely raise the arm the other side barely moves.
what could i have done wrong?
the behavior i am used to is, if i disconnect the dampers from the arms, and i lift one arm up, the opposing arm should raise as well. i have built the car and the stabilizers according to instructions and even if i completely raise the arm the other side barely moves.
what could i have done wrong?
frankly, i'm not impressed with how the stabilizers are mounted to the chassis on this car, but they should definitely work the same as any other car. the suspension geometry doesn't change that.
08-31-2022, 07:13 AM
#822
Thank you for the tips! I tried it out yesterday and it's definitely improved things – I might have a hunch though that the suspension is not moving as freely as it should and will try to work on that next.
09-01-2022, 09:46 AM
#823
Originally Posted by zuqbu
Thank you for the tips! I tried it out yesterday and it's definitely improved things – I might have a hunch though that the suspension is not moving as freely as it should and will try to work on that next.
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