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New Tamiya Chassis TC-01

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New Tamiya Chassis TC-01

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Old 12-05-2020, 09:50 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: New Tamiya Chassis TC-01
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
INSTRUCTION MANUALS:
Vehicle instruction manual: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/do...2-car-tc01.pdf
Formula E body instruction manual: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/do...e-gen2-car.pdf


HOPUPS:

DRIVE TRAIN:
Universal Prop shaft (TC01): #54975
Double Cardon Prop Shaft (TC01): #54961
Aluminum spur gear holder: #54903
Universal shafts: #54515
Clamp hex hub: #53570 or #53823
Double cardan shaft: #42360
Double cardan joints (TRF): #42216 (set) & #42239 (42mm shaft)
Different Aluminum Drive Cup: #54543
Steel Bevel Differential Gears: #54540
Aluminum spur gear holder: #54903
Gear Differential Steel Cross Shaft: #54533


BEARINGS (in MM):
3x6x2.5: x2
9x5x3: x1
9x5 (flanged): x1
5x8x2.5: x12
5x10x4: x10
5x10x3: x2
10x15x4: x4

SCREWS:
3x5mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x4
3x6mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x6
3x8mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x18
3x10mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x13
3x12mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x12
3x6mm Titanium Hex Head Countersunk Screws x5
3x8mm Titanium Hex Head Countersunk Screws x10
3x10mm Titanium Hex Head Countersunk Screws x8


SUSPENSION:
Suspension arm mounts (rear skid angle): #54787
Supension arm mounts: #54760
Stabilizers: #54956
Aluminum rocker arms: #54955
TRF big bore shocks: #42354
TRF works shocks: #84317
TRF Special shocks: #42102
Carbon rear crossmember: #54783
Carbon front crossmember: #54782
Low friction suspension balls: #54747
Titanium Coated suspension shaft: #53581
Flourine supension balls: #53709
Titanium Coated Shock Shaft: #54043
Aluminum shock extenders: #54960

WTCC's adjustable suspension Conversion:
Parts needed:
3x23mm turnbuckles (x8)
Yokomo #BM-206
Awesomatix #P18 AND P19
TRF 420 front hubs


DIFFERENTIALS:
One way diff: #54521
Spool: #54592
Ball diff: #54522

TURNBUCKLES:
Front Toe 3x18mm: #54247
Rear Toe 3x32mm: #54249
Steering Link 3x42mm:#54250
Open Face Ball Ends: #54868

MISCELLANEOUS:
Titanium Screw Set: #47449
Servo mount screws: #54862
POM Spacers: #54855
Carbon front stiffeners: #54962
Aluminum steering arms: #54958
Aluminum steering bridge: #54957


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Old 07-07-2022, 01:25 PM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by KeefeinVA View Post
I've built several Tamiya cars in the past (just finished a TA-08 that runs great). I just ordered the TC-01. I want to run it in my local 21.5t TC club race. I have a question around replacing the kit JIS screws with hex head screws. Do I need to tap the holes with a M3 tap first or are the plastics soft enough that I can just build it with stainless steel or ti hex head screws? If I were to build it with kit JIS screws, could I move over to stainless/ti/aluminum screws later? I presume that would be fine but I don't know if the kit JIS screws are a different diameter than typical M3? Thanks!
You should not need to pre-tap the holes, if anything I usually put a tiny bit of ChapStick on the threads the first time I screw them in. The included JIS screws have the same thread pitch as an M3 screw so you should also be good to replace later I would imagine.
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Old 07-07-2022, 01:27 PM
  #812  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
So a few things here. First JIS is the screw head. Not the thread type. Most JIS screws from tamiya are self tapping, and like a .75mm thread pitch. The machine thread screws are 0.5mm thread pitch. Once you've built a car with the self tapping screws, it's a poor idea to do it with machine screws later. (you can get machine thread screws with JIS heads too, and you get a few from tamiya in most kits..)

If you're going to go with machine thread screws, do it from the beginning.

If you're going to do anything with machine screws, get a thread forming tap. They're about $7. They save you both time, and stop you from stripping the screw holes. Thread forming taps don't remove plastic, they just push it aside. With a thread formed, when your screw bottoms out, you know it, instead of kinda getting a "squish" when it bottoms out.

If you decide to stick with the self tapping screws. Use a little grease on the threads, for the same reason you'd tap the hole for machine screws.
Oh yes! The above is an important point! I believe most screws included with the TC-01 are machine thread, but I cannot be certain no self-tappers snuck their way into the kit.
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Old 08-24-2022, 02:22 PM
  #813  
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Guys, I'm Marcelo from Brazil and I'm building my TC-01, but I'm having some problems to get the diff's adjustment...

I put tb05 diff cups in aluminum and metal gears, but it's not running loose, can anyone help me what it could be?

I'm using 2000 oil in the rear and 7000 in the front.

ah... i couldn't install cvd 39 and 42... any tips? thanks
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Old 08-24-2022, 09:53 PM
  #814  
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Originally Posted by marcelotrindade View Post
Guys, I'm Marcelo from Brazil and I'm building my TC-01, but I'm having some problems to get the diff's adjustment...

I put tb05 diff cups in aluminum and metal gears, but it's not running loose, can anyone help me what it could be?

I'm using 2000 oil in the rear and 7000 in the front.

ah... i couldn't install cvd 39 and 42... any tips? thanks
sometimes the diff needs to be broken in esp with metal gears due to the gears being cast and the rough edges needs to sanded/worn in for the diff to run smoothly. If the diff isnt operating smoothly after you upgraded with metal gears you can run the diff in a drill to accelerate the break in progress. Keep in mind the diff oil should be replaced after you think the diff is sufficiently broken in as there might be a lot of metal shavings in the oil. Also the gears might be too close together and you might need to play around with the shims inside the diff so the gears have the right amount of spacing between them.

You will need to use 39mm shafts for the rear if you are using the aluminum cups, you need to account for the plastic clip on the drive shaft

Last edited by disaster999; 08-24-2022 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 08-25-2022, 07:40 AM
  #815  
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don't know if it makes a difference, but the TC-01 uses TB-04 diff components
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Old 08-25-2022, 07:52 AM
  #816  
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Yep, not the best offering from Tamiya... the new XV-02/TT-02 gear diffs are pretty decent.
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Old 08-25-2022, 08:42 AM
  #817  
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
sometimes the diff needs to be broken in esp with metal gears due to the gears being cast and the rough edges needs to sanded/worn in for the diff to run smoothly. If the diff isnt operating smoothly after you upgraded with metal gears you can run the diff in a drill to accelerate the break in progress. Keep in mind the diff oil should be replaced after you think the diff is sufficiently broken in as there might be a lot of metal shavings in the oil. Also the gears might be too close together and you might need to play around with the shims inside the diff so the gears have the right amount of spacing between them.

You will need to use 39mm shafts for the rear if you are using the aluminum cups, you need to account for the plastic clip on the drive shaft
Thanks for the tips, I'll test and try to make it run a little with what it is. I'm only using a spacing washer (the thinnest that came in the kit) because with the thin and thicker ones, it stuck even more.
I'm going to run it for a few moments, turn it off, disassemble and see how the gears were, and then change the oil.

one thing crossed my mind.. those red EVA pads can tighten the diff if the axles are too tight. This can cause excess friction too, right?

thanks
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Old 08-26-2022, 01:45 PM
  #818  
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Originally Posted by Dan View Post
Yep, not the best offering from Tamiya... the new XV-02/TT-02 gear diffs are pretty decent.
Starting my build here shortly, is the new XV-02/TT02 diff a direct swap? It does look like the diff has more capacity/strength...
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Old 08-26-2022, 11:58 PM
  #819  
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I don't think so. I believe the XV-02/TT-02 diffs are physically larger.
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Old 08-30-2022, 11:54 AM
  #820  
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I have a question about stabilizers in this car: do they work as in other touring cars?
the behavior i am used to is, if i disconnect the dampers from the arms, and i lift one arm up, the opposing arm should raise as well. i have built the car and the stabilizers according to instructions and even if i completely raise the arm the other side barely moves.
what could i have done wrong?
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Old 08-30-2022, 11:59 AM
  #821  
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Originally Posted by zuqbu View Post
I have a question about stabilizers in this car: do they work as in other touring cars?
the behavior i am used to is, if i disconnect the dampers from the arms, and i lift one arm up, the opposing arm should raise as well. i have built the car and the stabilizers according to instructions and even if i completely raise the arm the other side barely moves.
what could i have done wrong?
make sure you didn't tighten the grub screws holding the stabilizer in place too tightly, on on the inverse that you didn't tighten them enough. what i do is i disconnect the stabilizer from the arms, lift the bar, and tighten the grub screw until it sticks. then i let it go, and back the grub screw until is just drops freely. do that with both grubs to make sure it's not wobbly and not binding.

frankly, i'm not impressed with how the stabilizers are mounted to the chassis on this car, but they should definitely work the same as any other car. the suspension geometry doesn't change that.
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Old 08-31-2022, 07:13 AM
  #822  
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Thank you for the tips! I tried it out yesterday and it's definitely improved things – I might have a hunch though that the suspension is not moving as freely as it should and will try to work on that next.
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Old 09-01-2022, 09:46 AM
  #823  
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Originally Posted by zuqbu View Post
Thank you for the tips! I tried it out yesterday and it's definitely improved things I might have a hunch though that the suspension is not moving as freely as it should and will try to work on that next.
Suspension movement is probably the one element I spend the most time on during a build. Your entire setup and driving experience hinges on a free-moving suspension. I can't tell you how many times I've fought a car's handling over and over because of a simple bind in the suspension.
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Old 09-06-2022, 12:12 AM
  #824  
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Just got done, too many Tamiya blue blinks! didn't like it so I've opted for Black and other darker color combinations.

here is mine TC01!

Dark Theme!

DIY air duct

instead of Blue Blings!

Wild Turbo Fan, WTF!
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