Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
New Tamiya Chassis TC-01 >

New Tamiya Chassis TC-01

Like Tree680Likes

New Tamiya Chassis TC-01

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-05-2020, 09:50 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: New Tamiya Chassis TC-01
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
INSTRUCTION MANUALS:
Vehicle instruction manual: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/do...2-car-tc01.pdf
Formula E body instruction manual: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/do...e-gen2-car.pdf


HOPUPS:

DRIVE TRAIN:
• Universal Prop shaft (TC01): #54975
• Double Cardon Prop Shaft (TC01): #54961
• Aluminum spur gear holder: #54903
• Universal shafts: #54515
• Clamp hex hub: #53570 or #53823
• Double cardan shaft: #42360
• Double cardan joints (TRF): #42216 (set) & #42239 (42mm shaft)
• Different Aluminum Drive Cup: #54543
• Steel Bevel Differential Gears: #54540
Aluminum spur gear holder: #54903
• Gear Differential Steel Cross Shaft: #54533


BEARINGS (in MM):
• 3x6x2.5: x2
• 9x5x3: x1
• 9x5 (flanged): x1
• 5x8x2.5: x12
• 5x10x4: x10
• 5x10x3: x2
• 10x15x4: x4

SCREWS:
• 3x5mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x4
• 3x6mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x6
• 3x8mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x18
• 3x10mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x13
• 3x12mm Titanium Hex Head Screws x12
• 3x6mm Titanium Hex Head Countersunk Screws x5
• 3x8mm Titanium Hex Head Countersunk Screws x10
• 3x10mm Titanium Hex Head Countersunk Screws x8


SUSPENSION:
• Suspension arm mounts (rear skid angle): #54787
• Supension arm mounts: #54760
• Stabilizers: #54956
• Aluminum rocker arms: #54955
• TRF big bore shocks: #42354
• TRF works shocks: #84317
• TRF Special shocks: #42102
• Carbon rear crossmember: #54783
• Carbon front crossmember: #54782
• Low friction suspension balls: #54747
• Titanium Coated suspension shaft: #53581
• Flourine supension balls: #53709
• Titanium Coated Shock Shaft: #54043
• Aluminum shock extenders: #54960

WTCC's adjustable suspension Conversion:
Parts needed:
• 3x23mm turnbuckles (x8)
• Yokomo #BM-206
• Awesomatix #P18 AND P19
• TRF 420 front hubs


DIFFERENTIALS:
• One way diff: #54521
• Spool: #54592
• Ball diff: #54522

TURNBUCKLES:
• Front Toe 3x18mm: #54247
• Rear Toe 3x32mm: #54249
• Steering Link 3x42mm:#54250
• Open Face Ball Ends: #54868

MISCELLANEOUS:
• Titanium Screw Set: #47449
• Servo mount screws: #54862
• POM Spacers: #54855
• Carbon front stiffeners: #54962
• Aluminum steering arms: #54958
• Aluminum steering bridge: #54957


Print Wikipost

Old 12-02-2021, 07:13 AM
  #796  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,414
Default

Is USGT 17.5? If so I would not run the metal gears. They are perfectly fine in 17.5 stock. I raced the TBevo6 a fair bit and never had a failure, they have the same gears.
Qatmix is offline  
Old 12-02-2021, 09:41 AM
  #797  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
simple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 666
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Is USGT 17.5? If so I would not run the metal gears. They are perfectly fine in 17.5 stock. I raced the TBevo6 a fair bit and never had a failure, they have the same gears.
Even better...USGT is 21.5
Qatmix and P0d1um like this.
simple is offline  
Old 12-02-2021, 10:25 AM
  #798  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,414
Default

In that case, plastic all the way. Save the weight.
Qatmix is offline  
Old 12-05-2021, 05:39 AM
  #799  
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,524
Default

ok. Thanks for your inputs everyone. :-)

Regards
BM
British Menace is offline  
Old 02-03-2022, 12:08 PM
  #800  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (74)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,096
Trader Rating: 74 (100%+)
Default

What FDR do you guys run for the Reedy fixed timing 21.5 in this car?
Dan is offline  
Old 05-16-2022, 07:36 PM
  #801  
Tech Regular
 
GT CRUSING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: California
Posts: 380
Default Parking Lot Track Setup

Here is the fully detailed car setup used for Tamiya TCS for a very bumpy mid grip asphalt parking lot track. Very similar to Cal Raceway, but more ride height for clearance and different gearing for spec 17.5 motor. I had to change gearing pretty high to avoid overheating as race day conditions were brutally hot. The spec dish wheels were not helping this car and my motor temp was 149F for the qualifiers and 155F for the race
MicroHeli-Nut likes this.
GT CRUSING is offline  
Old 05-16-2022, 08:43 PM
  #802  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by GT CRUSING View Post
Here is the fully detailed car setup used for Tamiya TCS for a very bumpy mid grip asphalt parking lot track. Very similar to Cal Raceway, but more ride height for clearance and different gearing for spec 17.5 motor. I had to change gearing pretty high to avoid overheating as race day conditions were brutally hot. The spec dish wheels were not helping this car and my motor temp was 149F for the qualifiers and 155F for the race
Thanks for sharing!
How much slower would you estimate the car to be if you ran the Formula E body?

F1jet_ is offline  
Old 05-16-2022, 09:50 PM
  #803  
Tech Regular
 
GT CRUSING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: California
Posts: 380
Default

Originally Posted by F1jet_ View Post
Thanks for sharing!
How much slower would you estimate the car to be if you ran the Formula E body?
I would say like about 0.7 slower, mostly because the FE body has little to no rear downforce. I have both bodies, and honestly, the FE is probably only equally matched the Gazoo on carpet tracks since the high grip removes rear downforce out of the equation. I’m totally up for sharing if it means more people get into the class. There’s been a slow growth in car count for TCS asphalt races
GT CRUSING is offline  
Old 05-17-2022, 10:53 AM
  #804  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by GT CRUSING View Post
I would say like about 0.7 slower, mostly because the FE body has little to no rear downforce. I have both bodies, and honestly, the FE is probably only equally matched the Gazoo on carpet tracks since the high grip removes rear downforce out of the equation. I’m totally up for sharing if it means more people get into the class. There’s been a slow growth in car count for TCS asphalt races
The class turnout was low at the two TCS races at 180. Two cars in GTE bodies were not enough for a class, so they ran with the GT2 cars with 21.5 motors. It was a bit brutal, some accidents, can't really recommend that again.
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 05-17-2022, 11:14 AM
  #805  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by F1jet_ View Post
Thanks for sharing!
How much slower would you estimate the car to be if you ran the Formula E body?
The setup shows the optional suspension is use on the front and back. Interesting, I only used the parts in the rear and this is something to try out. What effect did your adjustment to the front skid angle make?
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 05-17-2022, 11:20 AM
  #806  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by GT CRUSING View Post

I had to change gearing pretty high to avoid overheating as race day conditions were brutally hot. The spec dish wheels were not helping this car and my motor temp was 149F for the qualifiers and 155F for the race
iI have to ask, did you try running a motor fan, and if you did, where did you attach it? I initially tried to put the fan on the end of the motor but finally attached hanging down from the side rail blowing into the motor. Due to accident impacts, I moved it on top of the motor, but the airflow is not good there and body interference was a consideration.
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 05-17-2022, 07:32 PM
  #807  
Tech Regular
 
GT CRUSING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: California
Posts: 380
Default

Originally Posted by F1jet_ View Post
iI have to ask, did you try running a motor fan, and if you did, where did you attach it? I initially tried to put the fan on the end of the motor but finally attached hanging down from the side rail blowing into the motor. Due to accident impacts, I moved it on top of the motor, but the airflow is not good there and body interference was a consideration.
So I was running a 10x30x30 fan directly above the motor. The reason I don’t run it on the side is because its way too easy to break it. On the top side, you got the benefit of the body protecting the fan.


GT CRUSING is offline  
Old 05-19-2022, 07:04 PM
  #808  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by GT CRUSING View Post
So I was running a 10x30x30 fan directly above the motor. The reason I don’t run it on the side is because its way too easy to break it. On the top side, you got the benefit of the body protecting the fan.

Neat installation. Looks good.
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 07-07-2022, 01:14 PM
  #809  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I've built several Tamiya cars in the past (just finished a TA-08 that runs great). I just ordered the TC-01. I want to run it in my local 21.5t TC club race. I have a question around replacing the kit JIS screws with hex head screws. Do I need to tap the holes with a M3 tap first or are the plastics soft enough that I can just build it with stainless steel or ti hex head screws? If I were to build it with kit JIS screws, could I move over to stainless/ti/aluminum screws later? I presume that would be fine but I don't know if the kit JIS screws are a different diameter than typical M3? Thanks!
KeefeinVA is offline  
Old 07-07-2022, 01:24 PM
  #810  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,293
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KeefeinVA View Post
I've built several Tamiya cars in the past (just finished a TA-08 that runs great). I just ordered the TC-01. I want to run it in my local 21.5t TC club race. I have a question around replacing the kit JIS screws with hex head screws. Do I need to tap the holes with a M3 tap first or are the plastics soft enough that I can just build it with stainless steel or ti hex head screws? If I were to build it with kit JIS screws, could I move over to stainless/ti/aluminum screws later? I presume that would be fine but I don't know if the kit JIS screws are a different diameter than typical M3? Thanks!
So a few things here. First JIS is the screw head. Not the thread type. Most JIS screws from tamiya are self tapping, and like a .75mm thread pitch. The machine thread screws are 0.5mm thread pitch. Once you've built a car with the self tapping screws, it's a poor idea to do it with machine screws later. (you can get machine thread screws with JIS heads too, and you get a few from tamiya in most kits..)

If you're going to go with machine thread screws, do it from the beginning.

If you're going to do anything with machine screws, get a thread forming tap. They're about $7. They save you both time, and stop you from stripping the screw holes. Thread forming taps don't remove plastic, they just push it aside. With a thread formed, when your screw bottoms out, you know it, instead of kinda getting a "squish" when it bottoms out.

If you decide to stick with the self tapping screws. Use a little grease on the threads, for the same reason you'd tap the hole for machine screws.
KeefeinVA likes this.
Nerobro is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.