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Old 12-12-2002, 03:27 AM   #16
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Just a couple things:
The 04 is nowhere near the TRF -in performance
-set-up options
Besides if you want something completly different go for the Evo!
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Old 12-12-2002, 09:28 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vic
Just a couple things:
The 04 is nowhere near the TRF -in performance
-set-up options
Besides if you want something completly different go for the Evo!
not true, a fully hopped up TA04 is almost identicle to the 414M, yes there are a few adjustments missing, like wheelbase, but the cars almost perform the same, RC Car did a side by side comparison a few months back, even had a split car picture 1/2 TA04 1/2 414, it almost looked like a single car

I say go with the Evo III.
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:34 PM   #18
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My thoughts exactly newracer. There have been more options given to me by my supplier but It is just becoming too hard to decide. My buying impulses say go for the Xray but I think that the optional parts for this car are very expensive.

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Old 12-12-2002, 03:41 PM   #19
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I too agree with newracer.
Get an Evo3.
It's a 414 with the benefits of being shaft driven.
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:48 PM   #20
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Hi X414X,
I have heard a lot of gripes about the TB EVO II do you think that Tamiya will have it right with the EVO III. I mean everyone was raving with the announcement of the EVOII and now many people are saying it is not that great. Do you think it could be the same with the EVOIII or has Tamiya got it right and this is "the car to have"

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Old 12-12-2002, 04:18 PM   #21
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I'm all for the EvoIII. The new EvoIII's gearbox has more in common with a TB01's gearbox than the previous Evo's, allowing the shaft to rotate with far less friction. With the new gearbox, no heavy alloy bulkheads, narrower chassis and suspension parts from the 414 series makes it sound like a winner to me. I really feel Tamiya got it right this time. I should know; I have a few 414's and TB cars.
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Old 12-12-2002, 08:01 PM   #22
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X414X Do you have a TB Evolution II?? If so how would you rate it compared to say a Factory TC3?? Does the side of the chassis really contact with the ground a Lot??

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Old 12-12-2002, 10:20 PM   #23
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Also with Tamiya the quality of the parts fit, bearings, one ways, shafts etc are the best by far! You can't go wrong...
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Old 12-13-2002, 07:27 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
X414X Do you have a TB Evolution II?? If so how would you rate it compared to say a Factory TC3?? Does the side of the chassis really contact with the ground a Lot??

Steevo
I can't compare it to a TC3 because, I never cared to finish building it (see pic). From what I've heard, it can't touch a TC3. I devote most of my time to my TB01 with carbon chassis (and many, many other hop-ups) and my 04r.
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Old 12-13-2002, 01:57 PM   #25
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Can I ask why you have not built the TB Evo II Kit??

Also how would you really rate the TA04R to these Kits. I think it is an excellent car and would still give anyone with one of the other mentioned chassis a good scare. It may not have the adjustability as some but fully hopped up with all the good bits I think it would keep up with the best.
I can't compare for myself because the guys I know who have an Xray or TC3 are much better drivers than me with more experience so they beat me any way.

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Old 12-13-2002, 04:09 PM   #26
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I have a XXX-S, TA04R and a TC3. I have raced all these cars with stock (27T 24 degree) motors, so I can directly compare them with a stock motor. My feelings are:

XXX-S The easiest to drive of the bunch. Very forgiving. Deceptively fast on the track.
Required hopups: front one-way, short front shock shafts, threaded shock bodies.

TA04R Looks the fastest on the track. Doesn't generate as much mechanical grip as the XXX-S, so it's the most difficult of the bunch to get set up. Fairly forgiving.
Required hopups: Lightweight diff outdrives, front one-way

TC3 Seems to generate more mechanical grip than the others. This car likes to be stiffly sprung. Not very forgiving. It is very twitchy unless you run it really stiff.
Required hopups: Many springrates. I suggest you buy the Factory Team spring kit since it includes the most used springrates. An extra rear shock tower to run up front, front one-way, 4 degree caster hub carriers, shock rebuild kit from GS. The shocks leak like a sieve with the kit orange o-rings.

The TC3 is better suited to modified motors, imo. I don't think it works very well with stock motors. I race mine in mod and I like it a lot. For stock, my choice is the XXX-S. The TA04R is for TCS
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Old 12-13-2002, 04:22 PM   #27
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Thanks Psycho,
I am thinking of giving my car (Ta04R) to a friend at the local track who can drive much better than me. He drives a TC3 at the moment. I would like to see how the car goes in his hands I am not saying this because I have one already but I am sure that it will compete favourably against the others.
IF that proves true I will persevere with My 04R and save myself some money.

Do you know how all those Alloy screws hold up on the Factory TC3?? I would be concerned about shearing them in a crash and having problems extracting the stumps

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Old 12-13-2002, 04:41 PM   #28
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I don't think the TA04R is a bad car. Once I figured out how to set it up, it races fine. I have been racing my XXX-S for over a year and just recently got the 04R. If I had been racing the 04 for a year, who knows... I might prefer that car. I also had a problem with my batteries shorting out on the chassis, so that made me feel pretty negative about the car until I figured out what the problem was. I like the fact that the XXX-S generates good mechanical grip. It makes tire selection and suspension setup much easier. To a new racer or one of average skills, I doubt you will see much of a difference in laptimes between these cars. They are all competition class cars. I think it's really a matter of driving style and figuring out which chassis suits your driving style. As far as the alum screws go, I don't use them anywhere. If I use lightweight screws, they are titanium. The alum screws break too easily and they are very hard to get out if they do break since the aluminum is so soft. On the occasions that I have use alum screws, they have broken as I am screwing them in or taking them out most often. If I were you, I'd just stick with steel screws until your skill level is such that you won't worry about breaking screws since you aren't crashing.
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Old 12-13-2002, 04:46 PM   #29
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Thanks Psycho,
You always provide clear and concise information which is a big help to those of us still learning the art of RC Racing.

Steevo
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Old 12-13-2002, 04:55 PM   #30
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Gosh... now I'm blushing We're all still learning. That's part of the fun! If you really want to have some fun racing, check this out! We recently started a class for the guys that have old Tamiya dinosaur cars sitting at home collecting dust. We race them with silver can Johnson 540 motors and crappy kit tires. The chassis must be Tamiya and be a tub chassis. Any TA04 variant is a banned chassis and you must run a Tamiya body. The class is awesome. It is easily the most fun class we run and it is also the fastest growing. The cool thing is that it is appealing to everyone since you can buy a competitive car for around $100 and there is very little benefit to putting a bunch of hopups in the car since the tires are low grip and the motors aren't very fast. We run 8 minute heats and you can even make time running a 1400 stick pack. Most guys race TL01's or TB01's but there are FF, M and all flavors of TA chassis (except 04). It's something to think about if you guys want to have a "fun" class.
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