Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Associated TC7.2  turnbuckle eyelet-to-ballstud fit is terribly tight. Anyone else? >

Associated TC7.2 turnbuckle eyelet-to-ballstud fit is terribly tight. Anyone else?

Like Tree3Likes
  • 1 Post By glennhl
  • 1 Post By gigaplex
  • 1 Post By alphazone

Associated TC7.2 turnbuckle eyelet-to-ballstud fit is terribly tight. Anyone else?

Old 03-30-2020, 03:41 PM
  #1  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 5
Default Associated TC7.2 turnbuckle eyelet-to-ballstud fit is terribly tight. Anyone else?

I just built a TC7.2 factory team. I'm pretty certain I built it correct.
The eyelet-to-ballstud fit is terribly tight. The resulting binding in the steering rack assembly is so bad my 5 year old probably can't turn the steering rack (total friction).
The eyelet needs to freely rotate about the ballstuds and they can't - it's way too tight. Is there some grease I'm supposed to put in there? I owned more than 20 RC cars over the years and never had this problem.
I double-checked to make sure there weren't multiple variations of the ballstuds or eyelets in the lit and there isn't.

Anyone else found this?
What did you do?
alphazone is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 03:46 PM
  #2  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,374
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

You have a couple of options:
1) Do what they tell you to do in the instructions and take some needle nose pliers and squeeze the ball cup while it's installed on the ball stud.
2) I ended up buying a set of BD7 ball cups and they worked great. https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=8330

gigaplex likes this.
glennhl is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 03:56 PM
  #3  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 5
Default

New cups it is.
The ME/tooling engineer really screwed up that part.
They should have modified the tool or sacked up and made a new one. It's 1000% unacceptable on a $400 product to ask the end user to screw with the eyelet to fix their mistake.
alphazone is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:06 PM
  #4  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 101
Default

Not many manufacturers have perfected the eyelet and ballstud. Only one that I know is probably 3racing. Try measure the size of your ball studs, if its 4.8mm +-0.02, the 3racing eyelets will work great.
herrokero is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:22 PM
  #5  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,374
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by herrokero View Post
Not many manufacturers have perfected the eyelet and ballstud. Only one that I know is probably 3racing. Try measure the size of your ball studs, if its 4.8mm +-0.02, the 3racing eyelets will work great.
I'm pretty sure TC7.2 does not have 4.8mm ball studs. I believe they use 4.3mm ball studs.
glennhl is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:25 PM
  #6  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,112
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by alphazone View Post
New cups it is.
The ME/tooling engineer really screwed up that part.
They should have modified the tool or sacked up and made a new one. It's 1000% unacceptable on a $400 product to ask the end user to screw with the eyelet to fix their mistake.
Tolerances are really tight. If they'd gone a little bit looser, it would be fine during the original build but then they'd loosen up pretty quickly as you run the car.
gigaplex is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 08:24 PM
  #7  
Tech Rookie
 
Hoochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Posts: 14
Default

Better off getting new eyelets as the Ae ones are pretty dodgy. They are tight and also a few guys at the track have found they are more brittle. Yokomo are a spot on fit and are way stronger
One fix to free them up a little if you decide to keep the original is to polish each ballstud. One at a time place them in a drill and get them as shiny as you can, will make them free up a little
Hoochy is offline  
Old 03-30-2020, 08:38 PM
  #8  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 716
Default

Balls studs on full size vehicles have lots of variation too. During the manufacturing process the ball stud is spun at 10000 rpm in the cup for 10-15 seconds. Then lubricated and they are good for 100000 miles and silky smooth. It might help.

by the way the plastic will get super hot so watch your fingers.
Bry195 is offline  
Old 03-31-2020, 04:39 AM
  #9  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 176
Default

I've made it a habit over the years to lube ball studs with powered graphite
calvin is offline  
Old 03-31-2020, 07:05 AM
  #10  
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,147
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

I can not say for sure but do not believe that ballend was designed around a 4.3mm ball. That ballend has been around as far back as I can remember and am willing to bet to was set to fit a standard ball size and not a metric. This is why AE calls out in the instruction manual to squeeze the ball end. Squeezing opens up the ID just enough to work with the 4.3mm ball.
Most people have switched over to the Xenon VSS ball ends. They are a perfect fit for the kit 4.3mm ballstuds.
Jamie Hanson is offline  
Old 04-04-2020, 06:34 AM
  #11  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,112
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I can not say for sure but do not believe that ballend was designed around a 4.3mm ball. That ballend has been around as far back as I can remember and am willing to bet to was set to fit a standard ball size and not a metric. This is why AE calls out in the instruction manual to squeeze the ball end. Squeezing opens up the ID just enough to work with the 4.3mm ball.
Most people have switched over to the Xenon VSS ball ends. They are a perfect fit for the kit 4.3mm ballstuds.
The TC7 ball ends are from the TC6 era and that car was metric.
glennhl likes this.
gigaplex is offline  
Old 04-05-2020, 08:56 AM
  #12  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 5
Default

..thanks for all the responses. The Yokomo BD7 set as mentioned in post #2 worked perfect.
They're beefy and have a long stem, more robust than the original part, and there's no friction.
They also have a small hole on the top of the cup so you can remove the turnbuckle without having to pry it off of the ball.
For the steering rods the ball cups have to be installed about as far as they can go on - there's just enough adjustment.
glennhl likes this.
alphazone is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.