HenryC

iTrader: (13)

After getting out of Richard's way as he lapped me for the third time, I just wanted to pull over to watch

shadowracer24

iTrader: (3)

Never could get my computer to scan in the setup sheet so hoping y'all can read this. Forgot to add I raised the ends of the side tubes by .50 mm shim.

Red141

iTrader: (18)

Ran my Icon for the first time this weekend on black carpet with very high bite. Out of the box set-up is a good starting point. I wanted more on power steering so I started playing with caster. I have to adjust my radio sub-trim and therefore EPA every time I change caster. Am I doing anything wrong or is this the design? How are you guys doing it?

Ph3nyx

If you change caster it also change toe in/out and ackerman .
And you'll have to be very carefull to perfectly center the upper front plate, otherwise you may have different caster from left to right.

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

What is the method with this kit that allows the ability to run a spool in the rear?

kevjoh1

iTrader: (1)

You doing it correctly sort of confused me too at 1st. Ran mine for the 1st time today and ended up of winning the main. Didn't have TQ (my buddy did with his new X1 21). Also sort of pain too when I was switching out camber strap. I'm going to get extra camber strap parts so it will be an easy swap out when needed.

Red141

iTrader: (18)

Please let me know what extra parts you are getting and what you plan on doing to make it easier. Are they extra U7864 Posts to preinstall on the camber strap and set at the right location?

waitwhat

iTrader: (4)

The servo is mounted to the chassis and the steering bell crank is mounted to the camber strap that you are moving when you adjust caster. The easiest thing to do is adjust the length of the link between the servo and the steering bell crank when you make a caster adjustment. That way you don't have to adjust trim and travel when you adjust caster.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

https://www.discountrcstore.com/Schu...mp-p/cr721.htm

And then you need the F1 hex adaptor and you're good to go.

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

Thank you. That is exactly that I figured was going to be the solution. I was hoping Schumacher offered a similar setup with a steel axle but was unable to find such item. I have a couple steel spool axles from other mfg's that might work but we will see. I don't even have a Schumacher F1 but have been trying to figure out everything on paper.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I haven't really had much breakage with carbon spools. I don't see the reason for steel, since the spool is supposed to be both direct power and lightweight.

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

A steel option would do two things. It would help reduce wheelspin by adding weight on the rear axle but it will also flex less under load. Granted a carbon axle will have minimal flex but on a touchy F1 that is already difficult to get going in a straight line, a rock solid axle helps.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Tamiya 54424 diff bushings could work in the stock steel shaft ball diff. You'll still have the weight but it will be locked out to act as a spool. Much cheaper option.

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

Thank you Dan, this is all stuff I have utilized in the past. I've glued rings, used pegs, had D-ring adapters made to work with a standard axle hub, etc.........

shadowracer24

iTrader: (3)

Here's proof this car is very durable. Ran at a asphalt track this weekend that normally runs 1/8 nitro cars and the walls are made of steel and 4x4 posts. Clipped a corner of one of the steel walls and saw the tire go flying through the air and thought great just destroyed the whole rear of the car. Picked up the car after the race was over this is what the tire looked like but no bend in the axle, no bend in the hub, and no breaks in the chassis. The wheel nut was still on the hub where i had tightened to the wheel. Have never seen a wheel ripped off like that and not destroy the axle or hub. Still hard to believe looking at it now.