Andy Murray

Thanks
317.60mm

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Just built my first chassis - still to figure out the electronics fit but I’m sure I’ll squeeze them in! Great car to put together - fit and finish is excellent!
Then to start on the wet car!

Andy Murray

Glad you enjoyed the build. 🙂

For the wet are you planning any differences or is to simply to have two different setups and different electrics in each?

I haven't driven formula in wet conditions yet myself, although in low grip conditions the car seems to have lots of rear traction so hopefully it'll work well! 👍

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

I’ll run the brca wet tyres and soften the front up as much as possible to try to get some front end bite. As long at there is lots of rear grip that’s the most important thing!
but yes I have a set of electronics I have waterproofed to run when there’s lots of standing water - British weather is not great over the winter!

GT CRUSING

Anyone have some up close pics of how their new Icon rear end pod pivots/moves? I saw the release specs video, but still not quite entirely sure how it actually works. Something like the whole chassis goes right under the rear pod and how it moves above it, it's interesting.

TrevCoult

The pivot system is the same as that on the double World Championship winning Eclipse 3 12th scale, and Atom 2 GT12 so is very well tried, tested and successful. The pivot system itself works just like a normal one in that it has a single pivot point at the front of the pod, and side links. The differences are that the bottom of the pod is raised to allow space for the chassis. The pivot itself is a slider pivot so won't bind, and can be adjusted for different roll centres. We tend to run it as low as possible though, which is lower than is possible with most other systems. It has a normal side spring system but instead of having a conventional sprung damper it has a spring at the rear of the pod working with the chassis, and a centre straw damper. It also has a droop screw.

So the system is an optimised version of a link car, but the rear spring/droop system is completely different to most other cars.

If you look at the manual it will show it far better than I can describe, or Andy will explain better.

https://www.racing-cars.com/technical-information-icon

TeamThibault

what Rubber tires should i be buying for 25.5 black carpet med/to high grip
thanks

Dan

iTrader: (74)

If given a choice, the newly branded Schumacher Pit 571 front/572 rear works great on black carpet. Glue on the front side outside sidewalls.

Dan

iTrader: (74)

Got my Icon last week and did partial assembly. Had another local buddy build his and the front end seems designed around the Volante ETS tire on the stock wide config. So on Pit tires the front end is too wide.

Waiting on Schumacher to release the aluminum chassis and -6mm width front strap before I could finish the car. Hopefully soon, I have it on backorder.

TrevCoult

If you are using Pits use a 3mm wide bearing on the inside of the front wheel (instead of the standard 4mm) and put the washers on the outside of the wheel, that makes it the correct width. It is described in the setup section of the manual.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I'm the other local guy... I had fun Saturday.

Edit: found it 4* is 75.7mm (I'm missing the caster setting: 73.2mm as measured from where?) I set the angle on the kingpin to 6* then took it down to 4* using a camber gauge and no load on the front end, wheels off. I was grip/traction rolling on very high grip carpet, but that was mostly due to tire prep. I'll be ordering some narrow bearings and a few extras to get to legal width. I wish I'd found the setup sheet prior to the first run. I was way soft on center damping and could have used a stiffer spring in the rear. For some reason the side dampers felt over damping with the kit fluid and the car did not want to settle coming out the corner. Wiping off some fluid helped. I'll be trying 7k and 10k at the next outing. Dan was a big help with the brainstorming post race. The surface was very bumpy so I after racing I did notice log of buildup on the rear of the chassis, so I have since raised the whole car 1mm. I'll need to check my GT12 parts for a stiffer rear spring to match Andy's setup.

To those asking about the front end, it is exactly like the original F102/F103 Tamiya fixed front end, but with Caster adjustment. I used to shave the center of my F103 front ends to get 2* camber. Caster was never adjustable.

My review: This car is an absolute pleasure to build. Everything fits perfectly. Adjustments are very easy not just to perform, but to understand. This will be a great car for both novices and hard core racers to build and work on. Performance and durability are exceptional. The rear stays planted once you have it set up properly for your track. The front end with with the mass damper never hops or skips around the corner. I have had a Supastox, a Supastox GT and an Atom in the past and this car runs in that lineage. It is a great design.

Dan

iTrader: (74)

Thanks for the tips guys, I ordered the thinner bearing to try.

Andy, do you know when Schumacher will produce/ship the aluminum chassis and the -6mm narrow front end top plate?

The car is showing promise after driving liljohn's Icon. I will be benchmarking it against my CRC on black carpet in the near future. Interesting to note, the Icon on long wheelbase is still shorter than the latest CRC F1 wheelbase.

mhuse6969

This part is off by 2mm on left side. How do I get a replacement cause my distributer only sells full kits.
thanks

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I'm not seeing what is off. Can you describe it better? Is there a hole miss drilled?

mhuse6969

The left side support is mis-drilled as you said. Its 2m toward center of vehicle. I noticed it when i was building part, and it became more evident when I attached to chassis.