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Left turn spin outs

Old 02-23-2020, 07:31 AM
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Default Left turn spin outs

So Iím just getting into racing and starting off with a hopped up TB-03, TT-01E (semi) and a Awesomatix on the way. The TT-01E is a new kit with bearings, alum rear uprights, alum shaft, oil filled shocks, and adj uppers and the TB-03 has just about all the hop ups (both all Tamiya parts). I ran them in the street the past 2 days and noticed they both spin out when turning left and pushing turning right. I have a Hudy setup station coming in next week sometime so things might be off but itís strange they both do that. Is that the nature of shaftys?? Looking for opinions
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by MOTORMAN29 View Post
So Iím just getting into racing and starting off with a hopped up TB-03, TT-01E (semi) and a Awesomatix on the way. The TT-01E is a new kit with bearings, alum rear uprights, alum shaft, oil filled shocks, and adj uppers and the TB-03 has just about all the hop ups (both all Tamiya parts). I ran them in the street the past 2 days and noticed they both spin out when turning left and pushing turning right. I have a Hudy setup station coming in next week sometime so things might be off but itís strange they both do that. Is that the nature of shaftys?? Looking for opinions
check your front driveshafts/axles
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MOTORMAN29 View Post
So Iím just getting into racing and starting off with a hopped up TB-03, TT-01E (semi) and a Awesomatix on the way. The TT-01E is a new kit with bearings, alum rear uprights, alum shaft, oil filled shocks, and adj uppers and the TB-03 has just about all the hop ups (both all Tamiya parts). I ran them in the street the past 2 days and noticed they both spin out when turning left and pushing turning right. I have a Hudy setup station coming in next week sometime so things might be off but itís strange they both do that. Is that the nature of shaftys?? Looking for opinions
sound like adjustments. take some pictures post em let us look. could be a balance issue. camber issue lots to look at
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:43 AM
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what kind of diff? I was having a similar problem. When my diff fluid runs low or needs a change I loose traction. I had a Tamiya and it took 60k diff fluid to have proper traction

Have you checked ride height and droop?
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Old 02-23-2020, 12:20 PM
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I would add that running in the street is not necessarily representative of running on a prepared track but is does sound like there is probably a build issue or a damaged part.

Since there are so man possibilities I would just focus on checking that the car is build as the instructions say and that every part moves freely and evenly on both sides.
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Old 02-23-2020, 01:12 PM
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Could also be weight.... Depending on the battery and motor setup.
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Old 02-23-2020, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
check your front driveshafts/axles
i guess but both cars??

Originally Posted by chucko View Post
sound like adjustments. take some pictures post em let us look. could be a balance issue. camber issue lots to look at
camber could be the issue or probably the weight balance, I donít know if a picture would revel anything but Iíll try to post a pic.

Originally Posted by ryan391 View Post
what kind of diff? I was having a similar problem. When my diff fluid runs low or needs a change I loose traction. I had a Tamiya and it took 60k diff fluid to have proper traction

Have you checked ride height and droop?
on the TB03 I have a front spool and rear ball diff so no fluid, the TT01E is greased diffs.

Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
I would add that running in the street is not necessarily representative of running on a prepared track but is does sound like there is probably a build issue or a damaged part.
Since there are so man possibilities I would just focus on checking that the car is build as the instructions say and that every part moves freely and evenly on both sides.
true, you questioning my build???? Lol


Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
Could also be weight.... Depending on the battery and motor setup.
That could be the issue, I donít have any way of checking the side to side weight. I have 1 scale I could put under each wheel though. The Hudy kit I ordered comes with that balancing tool. Iím trying to think now if both cars have the battery on the same side.. humm had a few beers and canít remember now.... I guess I could get up and go check but that would involve getting up... lol
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Old 02-23-2020, 05:05 PM
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It does sound more like a mechanical issue then driver or surface issue. I run a wide range of touring cars, from Vaterra/Traxxas to Awesomatix/Serpent, on a number of different unprepared surfaces and haven’t had one spin like described.

I did have a spin out issue with a Hpi road car as the front axles were too short from factory. Under some turns the axle would slide out the the hub and allow a wheel to basically free spin
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Old 02-23-2020, 05:06 PM
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checking "vague" balance is easy. Two thumbtacks on centerline will do the job. "relative" is what matters, not exact weights.

Also check steering angle.
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Old 02-23-2020, 05:38 PM
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Itís not that it spins out going straight but when i come out of a turn and throttle up it spins out, if I donít throttle it up as much it wonít do it. But my right hand turns I canít get it to spin cause it seems to push too much. And thatís with both cars. Maybe the steering epa is set more on left?
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:59 AM
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On the truck I have had similar but opposite (pushed right, turned great left) due to the battery cables getting in the way of the steering.
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:54 PM
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See if you can find someone with a set of scales. You could have the diagonal corners of the car carrying most of the weight.
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:18 PM
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If its turning more in one direction than the other?
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Old 02-25-2020, 07:20 AM
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I got the setup station yesterday and went through the TB-03 last night, the first thing I did was check the downstops. The rears were ok but the front left was lower than the right by 2-3mm. I got the manual and adjusted the downstop screws to 2mm per recommended spec.
Next was Droop, R=9, F=8.
Front Camber right 2.0, left 1.5.
Camber rise was .5 L & R.
Rear Camber was 0.
Next was the Caster and here's were I might have found a problem, to check this I'm using a straight edge and my eyeballs (with the Hudy kit). The front right was 4deg but the left was 6, double checked it and thought I might have put a 6deg c hub on by mistake but both had 4deg hubs. When I was checking them it was dead nuts 4 and 6 but then I checked it a 3rd time and was getting 4 on either side... Could the lower arm spacing on the Suspension block create more or less Caster??

Next was the Toe, I had 0 on the left and .5neg on the right, I didn't check the steering throw with the radio on but maybe with that Toe difference it could be part of my issue.
Rear Toe was 2 both sides.
Tweak was off just a hair
I'm thinking the ride height was similar to the droop R=9, F=8
So.... I didn't make any adjustments (other than the downstops) but next I'm going to check the caster again, adjust front Camber to 2deg, Toe to 1.5 or 2 and try and drop the ride height a few mm.

oh, and I did check side to side balance and needed to add about 15g to the right side to get equal weight.

Is there a better way to check the Caster??
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:08 AM
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Droop was 9 and 8?

Front droop should be at 4.6 with ride height at 5.4mm.
Rear should be at 5.6 with ride height at 5.6
The droop srew level can be related to shocks. So set ride height first. mark on the shocks with a sharpie. Give equal turns right and left until the ride height is the same. Then set droop. A little goes a looooong way. 1/8 of a turn per check.

Make camber 2 in all the way around. If rear is still slidding, make camber 3 in rear. and front 1/2.
Make toe out in front 1
Rear toe if built to manual should be 2 or 3, but that is not something I would change.

Caster should be 4.

With all the messed up setting, balance is the least of your concern. I would not even pay attention to balance.
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