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Left turn spin outs

Old 02-25-2020, 08:46 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ryan391 View Post
Droop was 9 and 8?

Front droop should be at 4.6 with ride height at 5.4mm.
Rear should be at 5.6 with ride height at 5.6
The droop srew level can be related to shocks. So set ride height first. mark on the shocks with a sharpie. Give equal turns right and left until the ride height is the same. Then set droop. A little goes a looooong way. 1/8 of a turn per check.

Make camber 2 in all the way around. If rear is still slidding, make camber 3 in rear. and front 1/2.
Make toe out in front 1
Rear toe if built to manual should be 2 or 3, but that is not something I would change.

Caster should be 4.

With all the messed up setting, balance is the least of your concern. I would not even pay attention to balance.
Thanks Ryan, yeah I must have it all screwed up. I'll go over it again tonight. Where should the droop screws (downstops?) be set at initially? Should I back them out completely and then set ride height with the shocks?
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:48 AM
  #17  
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Ride height is set with springs and spring preload. Droop is a seperate adjustment.
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
Ride height is set with springs and spring preload. Droop is a seperate adjustment.
Sorry, I did mean shock spring preload. Droop adjustment will be made with the downstop screws, right?
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:03 AM
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yes back them out. droop is not inplay when car is sitting still. if your droop screws are too far in it could be raising your overall car. Hold the wheel down on the ground lift up on the body post. Droop in the back should be like 2mm over ride height. should should only be able to flex up a little bit. But there should be some movement.
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:13 PM
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Alright, so i backed out the droop screws and concentrated on setting the ride height. I had to reposition the rear shocks and adjust the front turnbuckles and got it set at 5.6 on the front and 7 on the rear.
I could shorten the front turnbuckles more to get it lower but the rear is the lowest i can get it with the stock shock tower, unless i get shorter shocks? I have 42102ís. Or possibly add a spacer in the shock to limit the extension??
So next i worked on the droop and got 2.5 in the front and 3.5 in the rear.
I was happy to see that any small adjustment I made actually did something!
So before a started replying here i reread the comments and realized I didnít follow what Ryan told me to set the droop at...smh
Iím going to leave that the way it is for now and adjust the camber, caster and toe now. And Thursday Iíll test it out.
Thanks for all the help guys, let you know how it goes.

oh here some pictures









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Old 02-26-2020, 03:29 AM
  #21  
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^Bear in mind that Tamiyas plastic c hubs tend to stretch/bend, especially after a crash, so that's why your 4 deg c hub is reading 6 deg.
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Old 02-26-2020, 05:44 AM
  #22  
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I am not familiar with this model of TC car. I am in no way an expert. The info I am passing on is from experiencing similar results as you. I have an Xray T4 which is a pretty standard layout for TC car. The Tamiya you have has a much different layout. For example the front shocks are not familiar to me.
I am also not familiar with the tire you have on the car. What class are you running? The tires look similar to VTA tires. A big problem with VTA tires is they balloon after some use. Usually they grow to a point I cannot compensate for ride height. This is when I know it is time to get new tires. You might need a new set up tires to really get the car under control.

Also, you set the droop to the extreme opposite. Droop helps the car transfer weight. As you turn the car one side lifts and the other side accepts the transfer. If you have no droop that transfer cannot happen. If you have too much the car could get tippy or push. Also be sure you are measuring at the most extreme end of the arms. At the outside corner. Not the bump where the set screw goes in, but the area under the outer most hinge pin.

I am not sure of this either, but the rear shocks are in the lowest most hole. I am not sure that is the correct spot. Maybe try to move up one or two holes.


Finally if you are still having trouble after you get set up, I would 1st. let off the gas right before the turn, get back on the gas after the weight transfers. 2nd have someone at your track look at it. If none of those options are available, purchase a car that others own whom can help you.
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:24 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Sir 51D3WAYS View Post
^Bear in mind that Tamiyas plastic c hubs tend to stretch/bend, especially after a crash, so that's why your 4 deg c hub is reading 6 deg.
I am using the reinforced parts but understand your point, thanks.
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:29 PM
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Wow, what an improvement!!
I donít know what it will do on the track but on the street and very smooth driveway, its freakin awesome! Very excited now!!

Iím going to leave it alone till i get some track time.

My neighbor was out and of course asked ďhow fast does that go?Ē and wham! I hit my damn mailbox and busted a hub carrier..




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Old 02-27-2020, 07:30 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MOTORMAN29 View Post
Wow, what an improvement!!
I donít know what it will do on the track but on the street and very smooth driveway, its freakin awesome! Very excited now!!

Iím going to leave it alone till i get some track time.

My neighbor was out and of course asked ďhow fast does that go?Ē and wham! I hit my damn mailbox and busted a hub carrier..


Fell a ďlittle shortĒ on training your mailbox to dodge Rc cars. I didnít train mine very well either bout 15 years ago. It can FINALLY jump out of the way after all these years.😉😂
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