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Old 03-15-2006, 06:44 PM   #16
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Angry asian-great stuff. When my car rolled it was horrible. I kept reffering it to as the big pile of $hit I had to drive. A new set-up with more rear toe and sway bars all around that drove flat I knew after the first 2-corners was gonna be good!!
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Old 03-15-2006, 07:20 PM   #17
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Default How to drive a one-way

How does the one-way compare on asphalt vs. ozite type tracks?

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Old 03-15-2006, 10:26 PM   #18
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understand the utility of a one-way. why use one?
with a regular diff, under hard cornering the car will lean towards the outside, sometimes so much that the inside tire will lift off the ground. when this happens with a diff, the power will unload onto the lifted tire, resulting in less (or zero) power to the tire on the ground and you lose some steering power. With a one-way, its full time power to both tires. for rubber tires, this results in higher cornering speed.

the trade off with a one-way is that you lose differential action - when your car turns in a circle the inside tire describes a smaller circumference than the outside tire, and a true differential allows this to happen naturally while the tires maintain their contact patch throughout.
with a one-way, both tires want to travel the same distance, so a traditional setup for a diff will cause erratic handling. due to the stiffer setups used with foam tires, you get less chassis roll than with rubber tires, and its this reason that one-ways are not often used with foam.

the other thing is that down the straight, many people report that the freewheeling action of the one-way makes for less drag and slightly higher speeds. i have seen this with silver can type motors but its less obvious with hot modifieds.

hope this helps
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Old 03-16-2006, 01:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Angry asian-great stuff. When my car rolled it was horrible. I kept reffering it to as the big pile of $hit I had to drive. A new set-up with more rear toe and sway bars all around that drove flat I knew after the first 2-corners was gonna be good!!

Like AngryAsian said the car needs very little chassis roll so I have been running very little droop front and rear to eliminate the need for sway bars. Also to help with the front to rear weight shift you can add a some anti-squat to the rear. Adding pro-dive to the front will help with on power steering if you do not have an aggressive enough caster block setup. If you are still don't have enough turn-in, .5 or 1 degree of front toe out will fix that.
Lastly, if you are running foams, decreasing the ackerman will increase your corner speed, in medium to high bite situations.
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:15 AM   #20
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Thanks guys I will try some more rear toe, stiffer fronts springs and shorter front camber links and see what happens.

basically I'm looking to get more initial turn in, keep the infield handling(neutral power) about the same and maybe get some more stability(less steering) exiting the corner

if that doesn't seem to help then I will try some more aggressive camber blocks.

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Old 03-16-2006, 10:28 AM   #21
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Try out a spool. It can act like a one-way and at the same time can act like diff. I was forced to try it out because my front diff also broke like yours. When I tried it, it handles pretty well. No need to worry on braking only on straights when using a spool.
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:40 AM   #22
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Woody: Are you running foam or rubber? If your running foam, do yourself a favor and just get another diff.

If your running rubber, One-way is a good way to go. The RDX is one of the easiest cars to drive with a one-way. If you can tell us what tires and what surface your working with hopefully some of us RDX drivers can get you pointed in the right direction. You must be very smooth on the throttle in order to get the most out of running with a one-way.

For a good rubber driver, rolling off the throttle should be second nature. It took me a year and a half from when I started driving R/C to learn how to properly drive a one-way car.
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:45 AM   #23
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lol. yeah I'm running rubber right now. But next season we are starting a stock foam class. Thats why I asked about the one-way with foam.

I just posted and linked this thread over on the Corally Thread to get maybe just that, some advise from some Corally drivers. Any input though you may have is greatly apreciated.

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Old 03-16-2006, 06:26 PM   #24
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One-Way is a good way to go with rubber tires. You may not like it for the first couple months but in the end once you've truly learned how to drive it (could be anywhere from a couple months to a couple years) it will be faster.

Do not bother with a One-way front axle if you are running foam. The one time I did that I wasted a couple belts.
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:04 PM   #25
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So if I am reading this thread right the advantage, if you want to call it that, of the JRXS center oneway would allow the action of a one with a true diff up front? So you would in theory have the best of both worlds then. I have a front one way as well but mostly use the center since it is easier to change out.
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35
So if I am reading this thread right the advantage, if you want to call it that, of the JRXS center oneway would allow the action of a one with a true diff up front? So you would in theory have the best of both worlds then. I have a front one way as well but mostly use the center since it is easier to change out.
One of the advantages of a real one-way would be the "straight axle" that you get when on power. You would not get that with a front differential and a center one-way pulley.
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35
So if I am reading this thread right the advantage, if you want to call it that, of the JRXS center oneway would allow the action of a one with a true diff up front? So you would in theory have the best of both worlds then. I have a front one way as well but mostly use the center since it is easier to change out.
The main advantage of a front oneway is that all the power is put to both front wheels, where as a diff puts most of the power to the wheel with the least amount of traction. You gain mostly in sweepers, chicanes, and corners. If you use a center oneway with a front diff you lose this.
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Thanks guys I will try some more rear toe, stiffer fronts springs and shorter front camber links and see what happens.

basically I'm looking to get more initial turn in, keep the infield handling(neutral power) about the same and maybe get some more stability(less steering) exiting the corner

if that doesn't seem to help then I will try some more aggressive camber blocks.

Woody
.5 to 1 degree of front toe out will give you more initial turn in and make the car a little more stable.
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Old 03-17-2006, 02:13 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantum
with a one-way, both tires want to travel the same distance, so a traditional setup for a diff will cause erratic handling. due to the stiffer setups used with foam tires, you get less chassis roll than with rubber tires, and its this reason that one-ways are not often used with foam.
With a one-way, and while turning, the inner-front wheel will simply freewheel. So it wont transfer motor power, but it will have good grip, since all the grip is allocated for turning, not acceleration/deceleration. It'll gain more steering traction. This can be called erratic handling, when one-way is mounted in a chassis setup for traditional diff. But personally I dont think "erratic handling" is sufficient in this case.
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Old 03-17-2006, 02:28 AM   #30
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Default A few more thoughts...

Great thread

Since a stiff setup is required, one-ways are not suitable on a bumpy track.

A way to see one-ways: A given tire at a given track, have a given traction, namely 100%. This traction is used for turning, braking and acceleration.

With a traditional diff, the traction is shared between these 3 tasks (unless you have the ability to keep the throttle in an absolutely neutral position). When you go off-throttle with a one-way, all the traction on the front wheels, are dedicated to steering.

The CS Electronic speedo Rocket Max have a selectable function, where a small amount of power is applied to the motor for a few seconds, after throttle-stick enters neutral. This almost eliminate the motor drag, and thereby the drag braking. Very usable with one-ways. Another workaround is to apply a little speed with the sub trim.

One-way info
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Last edited by futureal; 03-20-2006 at 04:08 AM.
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