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Awesomatix A12 Pancar

Old 01-18-2020, 12:36 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Yorick
Got the point, if it is not steel, it might be too fragile for M3 thread, question is if the alloy axle will not bend? Is it standard thread on both sides and standard M3 screws? If so it might be bit more prone to loosening M3 screw on left axle, where the friction on might move inner part of bearing.
These M3 screws are tightened till full lock into alloy axle. Actually there is not any noticeable torque from bearings or shims to turn off these screws.
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Old 01-18-2020, 02:26 PM
  #32  
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I already have the A800 ... so I can't wait to have this car ...
But isn't the aluminum axle "risky" in the event of an impact? Being a unique piece with hub...one imgage of rea ammo?
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Old 01-18-2020, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
Oh my lord. Oleg how long does it take you to machine these beauties? You sir are not of this world.
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Old 01-18-2020, 03:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by drg
I already have the A800 ... so I can't wait to have this car ...
But isn't the aluminum axle "risky" in the event of an impact? Being a unique piece with hub...one imgage of rea ammo?
well
most of the 12th front axles are steel and plastic ..CRC has alum axles and plastic...you pick what better!
I think the A12 axles look pretty solid..
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Old 01-20-2020, 12:21 AM
  #35  
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Hi
i have CRC car...two part axle and hub...if broken one change only one...if are one piece change all...$$$$...some time think necessary think at customer ...
v_squared....in Italy have a way of saying "ask for is reasonable answer is courtesy.."
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Yorick
Got the point, if it is not steel, it might be too fragile for M3 thread, question is if the alloy axle will not bend? Is it standard thread on both sides and standard M3 screws? If so it might be bit more prone to loosening M3 screw on left axle, where the friction on might move inner part of bearing.
Originally Posted by drg
Hi
i have CRC car...two part axle and hub...if broken one change only one...if are one piece change all...$$$$...some time think necessary think at customer ...
v_squared....in Italy have a way of saying "ask for is reasonable answer is courtesy.."
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
These M3 screws are tightened till full lock into alloy axle. Actually there is not any noticeable torque from bearings or shims to turn off these screws.
Due to experience with Schumacher, the front axle carrier (carbon beam) will brake, not this axle carrier.
High end aluminium-alloy is more strength than many steel types + this axle is 4mm, not 3,2mm, which increases strength by 2,44. This strength is impossible too reach at 3,2mm with the best steel available!

You need much more torque to loosen a full tightened screw, than a free sitting locknut (sometimes I loose those!)

The lock nut is high profile, always sticking out, catching the side rail of the track with the unavoidable thread stub overtopping the lock nut. The screw-solution is low profile and formed smooth. Much better in my eyes. Regarding play, on one hand some play to me seems OK and I prefer the screw solution. Maybe just accept 2/10mm of play, instead of shim madness ;-)
But if you like the conventional way - insert a grub screw and you have a M3 outside thread for a lock nut.

Oleg, is it feasible to make a conversion kit for Schumacher front please?
I would like to test the damper design. (Maybe Christian Donath can hand out to me, GFC is my home track.) Piston dampers are much different to tube-dampers in hydraulic aspects. (damper curve, temperature behaviour, possible assymetry, binding seals etc.). Tubes are ideal in many ways but tightness ;-) I also had good results from a self made air damper...

Best regards, Erhard

Last edited by Erhard; 01-20-2020 at 01:59 AM.
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Old 01-20-2020, 02:04 AM
  #37  
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The front hub axle is 4,75mm. This is noticeably stronger compare to 3,17mm steel axle even at very strong type of steel using.
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Old 01-20-2020, 03:03 AM
  #38  
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Wow !

very large diameter....
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Old 01-20-2020, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
The front hub axle is 4,75mm. This is noticeably stronger compare to 3,17mm steel axle even at very strong type of steel using.
Nevermind, misunderstanding
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Old 01-20-2020, 07:58 AM
  #40  
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Think 5/16 od x 3/16 id
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Old 01-20-2020, 08:02 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Erhard
Due to experience with Schumacher, the front axle carrier (carbon beam) will brake, not this axle carrier.
High end aluminium-alloy is more strength than many steel types + this axle is 4mm, not 3,2mm, which increases strength by 2,44. This strength is impossible too reach at 3,2mm with the best steel available!
You need much more torque to loosen a full tightened screw, than a free sitting locknut (sometimes I loose those!)
The lock nut is high profile, always sticking out, catching the side rail of the track with the unavoidable thread stub overtopping the lock nut. The screw-solution is low profile and formed smooth. Much better in my eyes. Regarding play, on one hand some play to me seems OK and I prefer the screw solution. Maybe just accept 2/10mm of play, instead of shim madness ;-)
But if you like the conventional way - insert a grub screw and you have a M3 outside thread for a lock nut.
Oleg, is it feasible to make a conversion kit for Schumacher front please?
I would like to test the damper design. (Maybe Christian Donath can hand out to me, GFC is my home track.) Piston dampers are much different to tube-dampers in hydraulic aspects. (damper curve, temperature behaviour, possible assymetry, binding seals etc.). Tubes are ideal in many ways but tightness ;-) I also had good results from a self made air damper...
Best regards, Erhard
Erhard, now we are using two 0,5mm alloy spacers (total 1mm) on every hub for adjusting of the front track with within 2mm range at 1mm step.
0,1mm free axial play of wheel always exists at thus independent of where are the spacers - both spacers inside, both spacers outside or one spacer inside and second spacer outside.
So we are not using shims for adjusting of the free play. So no any madness with shims at least with different most popular front rims that we used by now.
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Old 01-20-2020, 09:26 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
The front hub axle is 4,75mm. This is noticeably stronger compare to 3,17mm steel axle even at very strong type of steel using.
Using the same material, 4,75mm instead of 3,2mm gives you 5 times more strength,
Using aluminium you probably loose a factor of 2 and still have 2,5 times more strength - no one will be able to break this part!
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:12 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Erhard
Using aluminium you probably loose a factor of 2 and still have 2,5 times more strength - no one will be able to break this part!
Hold my beer.
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Old 01-20-2020, 07:35 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Erhard
Using the same material, 4,75mm instead of 3,2mm gives you 5 times more strength,
Using aluminium you probably loose a factor of 2 and still have 2,5 times more strength - no one will be able to break this part!
Exactly right--we haven't seen any issues with this part. I have durability tested it (and not just me) and not a single issue to note. They are rock solid.

Personally--I much prefer using a screw to hold the front wheel compared to an M3 Nut. Would never want to go back.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:20 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Sam Isaacs
Exactly right--we haven't seen any issues with this part. I have durability tested it (and not just me) and not a single issue to note. They are rock solid.

Personally--I much prefer using a screw to hold the front wheel compared to an M3 Nut. Would never want to go back.
I agree totally with Sam, this part looks great and is probably the part that I am most interested in. Can't wait to see everything in there and how it goes together.

Sam, since you've driven the car, can you give a driving description of the car? Did it drive like any other car you have driven, like maybe a t bar car etc.?

Steve
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