Harold996tt

Looks great. Did you manage to compare the two chassis on your track? I will be returning to Australia (Perth) after years working in Singapore and am only just getting into pan cars and see the Perth indoor track would be perfect for 1/12. I just purchased an eclipse and will try and get it built before my return. Can I ask what starting point set up for the eclipse you would recommend in terms of springs, option parts (solid rear axle or diff, alloy pivot or original kit is OK) for the track as well as appropriate diameter tires, ride height and the gear ratio for 13.5? Much thanks in advance and huge apologies for all the questions. Look forward to meeting you soon.

3DFLYER

Yes I have mate, the ally definitely tamned it down a bit which in stock I didn't like as much. The ally car has become my mod car.
Sounds good! Looking forward to meeting you at precc.
Im quite a fan of the spool and myself won't go back to diff unless I absolutely to have it. But I wouldn't say start with it. Stick with the diff until you can hang onto it for 8mins.

Send me a PM mate

3DFLYER

For those interested, here is a buddy of mine driving his E3 on Ashphalt 👍 (pink car)

He took TQ and 3 wins in stock 1/12

https://youtu.be/3MPtKAZXNrQ

Erhard

-The kit manual settings are more than a good starting point.
-See no reason for alloy pivot to perform differently
- more important! get yourself a spool, will not hurt to have one. With 17,5T i found it easier to drive. As soon as you accelerate hard from a wide corner, it pays off. I found breaking on bumpy track much more controlled. If you have only narrow corners, maybe diff is better. Both versions work well. Plus you have a spare axle in case of breaking one.
-further settings find on schumacher homepage and (my recommendation!) petite rc --> Schumacher Eclipse, Eclipse2 & Eclipse3 Setup Sheets

Best regards, Erhard

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

What configuration are they using? 2s 17.5 blinky?

midse

iTrader: (7)

Australian Stock 1/12 uses 13.5 1S Blinky. ( Roar/Brca spec.)

picco007

iTrader: (98)

Everyone, I have to chance to buy the first Eclipse for a great price. What are your thoughts on the first one versus the E3? Please let me know, have a chance to get it this weekend.

Thanks in advance.

Erhard

Get the Eclipse 2 or 3 front Axle. The E1 Front Axle is complicated and vulnerable. Before you buy, consider the price add on of this mod.

Best regards, Erhard

P.S.: I started with E1 and had to do the mod - the E1 Front-Axle made me unhappy.

PomAbroad

iTrader: (4)

And that's me cracking under pressure into the hair pin :-D

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Building my first 12th, so I may be missing something obvious here. My left steering throw is being blocked by the link hitting the servo. I've tried removing the 2mm shims from the servo posts, but still not quite right.

What should I try next?

vafactor

iTrader: (4)

Suggest moving the tie rod inner pivot balls to the front side of the servo saver and then moving the servo so that it’s mounting ears are behind the mounting posts rather than in front of them.

Robert K

​​
Are you using the right ballstuds (U7833)?

I wouldn't move the balls to the front of the saver, as this changes the ackermann a lot.
I would rater space the servosaver out on the servo spline. There's a lot of material and you could easily put a 0.3/0.5mm shim between the saver and the spline and still have a reliable mounting. This will move the servosaver away from the servo. This is what I did on my Sanwa 94971

Regards Robert

PutAwayWet

iTrader: (1)

Also, and no disrespect intended, how much throw are you getting? I would say that 1/12th generally gets by with much less steering throw than a TC. If you're getting roughly 30 deg. to each side, that should be more than enough. Once you adjust your endpoints and dial in your circles on track, you'll most likely be backed off even further.

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Noted. See related question/comment below.

Fairly certain this assembly was pre-built in the kit (U7895).


This was something I thought about, but couldn't quickly find a shim that fits. I'll keep hunting.

If the steering links remain perpendicular to the centre line of the chassis, does it make a difference (maybe other than weight distribution)? I've seen plenty of Ackermann settings for my TC setups, but it doesn't appear on the Ecipse3 setup sheet (maybe it's implied in the "wheel lock angle"?).

I'm getting to about 23 degrees (inside wheel) before it starts interfering.

3DFLYER

Eclipse 3 on Ashphalt this weekend, not normally something that interests me generally. But I had a ball. And the car was excellent all weekend . Bit of a difference to my open Pro10 and 1/8 but still had a blast

TQ and win in 1/12 stock at WA state titles