Like Tree630Likes

Schumacher Mi7

Old 01-21-2021, 05:41 AM
  #511  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,750
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
pretty easy
i have the option of the horizontal mounts on the ARC but havenít put them on as it seems easier to mount the body the normal way. Also curious as to whatís the reasoning for the horizontal posts?

STLNLST is offline  
Old 01-21-2021, 05:51 AM
  #512  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (235)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,526
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
i have the option of the horizontal mounts on the ARC but havenít put them on as it seems easier to mount the body the normal way. Also curious as to whatís the reasoning for the horizontal posts?
not sure ill find out this weekend at the track lol
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 01-21-2021, 07:04 AM
  #513  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,808
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
i have the option of the horizontal mounts on the ARC but havenít put them on as it seems easier to mount the body the normal way. Also curious as to whatís the reasoning for the horizontal posts?
On the amx, itís actually much easier to mount a body with the horizontal posts. Advantages are slightly lower CG, and you can have the same or more anti tuck protection for less weight.
STLNLST and Rick Vessell like this.
geeunit1014 is offline  
Old 01-21-2021, 09:33 PM
  #514  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,750
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
On the amx, itís actually much easier to mount a body with the horizontal posts. Advantages are slightly lower CG, and you can have the same or more anti tuck protection for less weight.
fo you suggest I cut the body mount holes before painting or is it still simple to do like the vertical mounts?

STLNLST is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 06:05 AM
  #515  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,808
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
fo you suggest I cut the body mount holes before painting or is it still simple to do like the vertical mounts?
I prefer to cut the body clear, but once you get some measurements figured out it shouldnít make a difference. If you measure down from the top of the wing strut, you should find a number that will work for most bodies. Once you get the rear holes cut you can use magnets on the front like always.
Rick Vessell likes this.
geeunit1014 is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 06:08 AM
  #516  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (235)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,526
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
fo you suggest I cut the body mount holes before painting or is it still simple to do like the vertical mounts?
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 09:17 AM
  #517  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 61
Default pivot mounts

For those that are not going to the wishbone conversion this may help you. I have always disliked how the lower pivot balls simply thread into the plastic knuckle with nothing to tighten up to. I have had them wiggle loose over a few runs and tapping a board with a wheel knocks them out of position very easy and its enough to effect the camber. I came up with a cheap solution to help combat this issue. Since installing this I have not had any more of these issues. You will need 5.5mm short ballstuds from Tekno part #6206, a dremel with heavy duty cutting wheel, cordless drill, small round file and some heat shrink. Safety glasses recommended. What we are going to do is grind the shoulder down on the new ballstuds small enough to pass through the hole in the carbon arm but with enough of a shoulder to rest against the knuckle and allow it to be tightened up.

Slip a piece of heat shrink over the ball to protect it in case the cutting wheel jumps and nicks the ball surface.


Heat shrink covering the ball for protection

Chuck up the ballstud in the drill and spin it at low RPM. Use the dremel with cutting wheel to grind down the shoulder of the ball to be 4mm. Chamfer the shaft of the ballstud from the ball to the shoulder a little as well for clearance in the arm. Also trim the thread length down to 5mm or it will poke up in the knuckle and may touch the axle.



Use the round file to very slightly open the hole in arm just enough for the shoulder of the ball stud to pass through.


Bolt it all back together and have a more durable car.




qcrc likes this.
gimpy racer is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 09:21 AM
  #518  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
qcrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IA Quad Cities
Posts: 432
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I am looking for a used Mi7 if anybody has a spare. Thanks
qcrc is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 09:39 AM
  #519  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (235)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,526
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gimpy racer View Post
For those that are not going to the wishbone conversion this may help you. I have always disliked how the lower pivot balls simply thread into the plastic knuckle with nothing to tighten up to. I have had them wiggle loose over a few runs and tapping a board with a wheel knocks them out of position very easy and its enough to effect the camber. I came up with a cheap solution to help combat this issue. Since installing this I have not had any more of these issues. You will need 5.5mm short ballstuds from Tekno part #6206, a dremel with heavy duty cutting wheel, cordless drill, small round file and some heat shrink. Safety glasses recommended. What we are going to do is grind the shoulder down on the new ballstuds small enough to pass through the hole in the carbon arm but with enough of a shoulder to rest against the knuckle and allow it to be tightened up.

Slip a piece of heat shrink over the ball to protect it in case the cutting wheel jumps and nicks the ball surface.


Heat shrink covering the ball for protection

Chuck up the ballstud in the drill and spin it at low RPM. Use the dremel with cutting wheel to grind down the shoulder of the ball to be 4mm. Chamfer the shaft of the ballstud from the ball to the shoulder a little as well for clearance in the arm. Also trim the thread length down to 5mm or it will poke up in the knuckle and may touch the axle.



Use the round file to very slightly open the hole in arm just enough for the shoulder of the ball stud to pass through.


Bolt it all back together and have a more durable car.

i just put a e-clip on the stud and was able to tighten it to the hub never had an issue with the ball stud getting loose took about 2 minutes to do the whole car at a cost of .08 cents for 4 eclips
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 09:54 AM
  #520  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 61
Default

thats much simpler lol
Marcos.J likes this.
gimpy racer is offline  
Old 01-22-2021, 11:47 AM
  #521  
Tech Adept
 
Ice_nl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 155
Default

There should also be a small plastic tool provided with the car to set the gap between the hub and the arm (hub carrier setting tool - MI7 Item No. U7740). You can then just tighten it against the tool.
Ice_nl is offline  
Old 01-23-2021, 07:36 AM
  #522  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,750
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I prefer to cut the body clear, but once you get some measurements figured out it shouldnít make a difference. If you measure down from the top of the wing strut, you should find a number that will work for most bodies. Once you get the rear holes cut you can use magnets on the front like always.
looking at the Tonisport video I have to have my car ready to run which it isnít currently so I may be painting this body normally and then switch to the horizontal mounts later in the season. Thanks for the tips.

STLNLST is offline  
Old 01-24-2021, 08:37 AM
  #523  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone know if the Mi7 kit K182 has had any running changes/updates put in the box since it came out? I'm considering buying one from a shop NOS/new, old stock. No idea how old it is exactly. Thanks!
KeefeinVA is offline  
Old 01-24-2021, 10:47 AM
  #524  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (235)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,526
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KeefeinVA View Post
Does anyone know if the Mi7 kit K182 has had any running changes/updates put in the box since it came out? I'm considering buying one from a shop NOS/new, old stock. No idea how old it is exactly. Thanks!
the only recent change to the kit was it only comes with the mid motor chassis now, if your shop has a older kit it should have both chassis in it.
KeefeinVA likes this.
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 01-24-2021, 10:53 AM
  #525  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (235)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,526
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Trying out the new suspension with the rear motor layout in mod tc
ASM and Rick Vessell like this.
Marcos.J is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.