630LikesSchumacher Mi7
01-21-2021, 05:51 AM
#512
Originally Posted by STLNLST
i have the option of the horizontal mounts on the ARC but haven’t put them on as it seems easier to mount the body the normal way. Also curious as to what’s the reasoning for the horizontal posts?
01-21-2021, 07:04 AM
#513
Originally Posted by STLNLST
i have the option of the horizontal mounts on the ARC but haven’t put them on as it seems easier to mount the body the normal way. Also curious as to what’s the reasoning for the horizontal posts?
01-21-2021, 09:33 PM
#514
Originally Posted by geeunit1014
On the amx, it’s actually much easier to mount a body with the horizontal posts. Advantages are slightly lower CG, and you can have the same or more anti tuck protection for less weight.
01-22-2021, 06:05 AM
#515
Originally Posted by STLNLST
fo you suggest I cut the body mount holes before painting or is it still simple to do like the vertical mounts?
01-22-2021, 09:17 AM
#517
Tech Apprentice
pivot mounts
For those that are not going to the wishbone conversion this may help you. I have always disliked how the lower pivot balls simply thread into the plastic knuckle with nothing to tighten up to. I have had them wiggle loose over a few runs and tapping a board with a wheel knocks them out of position very easy and its enough to effect the camber. I came up with a cheap solution to help combat this issue. Since installing this I have not had any more of these issues. You will need 5.5mm short ballstuds from Tekno part #6206, a dremel with heavy duty cutting wheel, cordless drill, small round file and some heat shrink. Safety glasses recommended. What we are going to do is grind the shoulder down on the new ballstuds small enough to pass through the hole in the carbon arm but with enough of a shoulder to rest against the knuckle and allow it to be tightened up.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over the ball to protect it in case the cutting wheel jumps and nicks the ball surface.
Heat shrink covering the ball for protection
Chuck up the ballstud in the drill and spin it at low RPM. Use the dremel with cutting wheel to grind down the shoulder of the ball to be 4mm. Chamfer the shaft of the ballstud from the ball to the shoulder a little as well for clearance in the arm. Also trim the thread length down to 5mm or it will poke up in the knuckle and may touch the axle.
Use the round file to very slightly open the hole in arm just enough for the shoulder of the ball stud to pass through.
Bolt it all back together and have a more durable car.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over the ball to protect it in case the cutting wheel jumps and nicks the ball surface.
Heat shrink covering the ball for protection
Chuck up the ballstud in the drill and spin it at low RPM. Use the dremel with cutting wheel to grind down the shoulder of the ball to be 4mm. Chamfer the shaft of the ballstud from the ball to the shoulder a little as well for clearance in the arm. Also trim the thread length down to 5mm or it will poke up in the knuckle and may touch the axle.
Use the round file to very slightly open the hole in arm just enough for the shoulder of the ball stud to pass through.
Bolt it all back together and have a more durable car.
01-22-2021, 09:39 AM
#519
Originally Posted by gimpy racer
For those that are not going to the wishbone conversion this may help you. I have always disliked how the lower pivot balls simply thread into the plastic knuckle with nothing to tighten up to. I have had them wiggle loose over a few runs and tapping a board with a wheel knocks them out of position very easy and its enough to effect the camber. I came up with a cheap solution to help combat this issue. Since installing this I have not had any more of these issues. You will need 5.5mm short ballstuds from Tekno part #6206, a dremel with heavy duty cutting wheel, cordless drill, small round file and some heat shrink. Safety glasses recommended. What we are going to do is grind the shoulder down on the new ballstuds small enough to pass through the hole in the carbon arm but with enough of a shoulder to rest against the knuckle and allow it to be tightened up.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over the ball to protect it in case the cutting wheel jumps and nicks the ball surface.
Heat shrink covering the ball for protection
Chuck up the ballstud in the drill and spin it at low RPM. Use the dremel with cutting wheel to grind down the shoulder of the ball to be 4mm. Chamfer the shaft of the ballstud from the ball to the shoulder a little as well for clearance in the arm. Also trim the thread length down to 5mm or it will poke up in the knuckle and may touch the axle.
Use the round file to very slightly open the hole in arm just enough for the shoulder of the ball stud to pass through.
Bolt it all back together and have a more durable car.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over the ball to protect it in case the cutting wheel jumps and nicks the ball surface.
Heat shrink covering the ball for protection
Chuck up the ballstud in the drill and spin it at low RPM. Use the dremel with cutting wheel to grind down the shoulder of the ball to be 4mm. Chamfer the shaft of the ballstud from the ball to the shoulder a little as well for clearance in the arm. Also trim the thread length down to 5mm or it will poke up in the knuckle and may touch the axle.
Use the round file to very slightly open the hole in arm just enough for the shoulder of the ball stud to pass through.
Bolt it all back together and have a more durable car.
01-22-2021, 09:54 AM
#520
Tech Apprentice
thats much simpler lol
01-22-2021, 11:47 AM
#521
There should also be a small plastic tool provided with the car to set the gap between the hub and the arm (hub carrier setting tool - MI7 Item No. U7740). You can then just tighten it against the tool.
01-23-2021, 07:36 AM
#522
Originally Posted by geeunit1014
I prefer to cut the body clear, but once you get some measurements figured out it shouldn’t make a difference. If you measure down from the top of the wing strut, you should find a number that will work for most bodies. Once you get the rear holes cut you can use magnets on the front like always.
01-24-2021, 08:37 AM
#523
Does anyone know if the Mi7 kit K182 has had any running changes/updates put in the box since it came out? I'm considering buying one from a shop NOS/new, old stock. No idea how old it is exactly. Thanks!
01-24-2021, 10:47 AM
#524
Originally Posted by KeefeinVA
Does anyone know if the Mi7 kit K182 has had any running changes/updates put in the box since it came out? I'm considering buying one from a shop NOS/new, old stock. No idea how old it is exactly. Thanks!
