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What to put in my Tamiya P34 / F103?

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What to put in my Tamiya P34 / F103?

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Old 10-05-2019, 06:31 PM
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Quick question. Would there be any heat or interference issues if I mounted the ESC on top of the steering servo? Or would not having the weight of the ESC up front where the instructions show it going effect the handing noticeably due to the lose of weight at the front? The motor wires on my ESC I bought are maddeningly an inch short of what is needed to mount it in the recommended space. I dont have any 16 gauge wire to extend it. Would I be better splicing in a little extra wire or just moving it?

Also the battery connector on the ESC is EC3, I have never needed to swap connectors, with the Tamiya connectors do you need to solder them or is crimping good enough?


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Old 10-05-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
This was my approach to this chassis:
1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

It took some time, but look and performance increased.
that came out absolutely i credible! How did the changes you made effect handling? Just on looks alone i would love to do something similar in the future!

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Old 10-05-2019, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by A_Locomotive View Post
Quick question. Would there be any heat or interference issues if I mounted the ESC on top of the steering servo? Or would not having the weight of the ESC up front where the instructions show it going effect the handing noticeably due to the lose of weight at the front? The motor wires on my ESC I bought are maddeningly an inch short of what is needed to mount it in the recommended space. I dont have any 16 gauge wire to extend it. Would I be better splicing in a little extra wire or just moving it?

Also the battery connector on the ESC is EC3, I have never needed to swap connectors, with the Tamiya connectors do you need to solder them or is crimping good enough?

You're unlikely to have any issues with mounting the esc on top of the servo, seeing that you are running the stock motor and a 2.4 ghz system. But do check for clearance under the bodyshell. Personally though, I would splice/solder longer wires, the same thickness as the esc ones directly to the motors as those crimp style "bullet" connectors are crap and the wires are thin. I would also avoid Tamiya connectors where possible. Solder in an EC3 or change everything to connectors of your choice.

I'm stickering the bodyshell on mine now.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by A_Locomotive View Post
that came out absolutely i credible! How did the changes you made effect handling? Just on looks alone i would love to do something similar in the future!
I increased the camber in front and gained a lot of steering. With the rear part of the F104 v2 I can work easier. If this design is faster than friction plate chassis... I don‘t know. I for myself am used to work with the newer layout.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Sir 51D3WAYS View Post
You're unlikely to have any issues with mounting the esc on top of the servo, seeing that you are running the stock motor and a 2.4 ghz system. But do check for clearance under the bodyshell. Personally though, I would splice/solder longer wires, the same thickness as the esc ones directly to the motors as those crimp style "bullet" connectors are crap and the wires are thin. I would also avoid Tamiya connectors where possible. Solder in an EC3 or change everything to connectors of your choice.

I'm stickering the bodyshell on mine now.
The wires off the ESC actually appear to be the same gauge as the stock motors. They are surprisingly thin. I think i will just extend the wires and eliminate those connectors to the motor like you said.

What's wrong with the tamiya style connectors? I was going to go with them simply because all of my NIMH batteries have them already. I suppose i could just get a tamiya to EC3 adapter for now. Of the different style connectors are any easier to solder then others?

what set up are you putting in yours? Lets see some pics! WTCCs car is inspiring me to think about future changes I could make. I think when i go to my LHS today to get some wire and shrink wrap I will bring the chassis with me and see if I can locate some suitable parts to change out all of the turn buckles to make them more easily adjustable. I am wondering also, the toe on the car based on the instructions has given me very noticeable toe out. Is that normal for this kit, or perhaps I had a dyslexic moment with my tape measure?
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
I increased the camber in front and gained a lot of steering. With the rear part of the F104 v2 I can work easier. If this design is faster than friction plate chassis... I don‘t know. I for myself am used to work with the newer layout.
The increased negative camber is all from the custom aluminun top plates you made right? Thats definitely a mode i would be tempted to try, do you know what the name of that aluminum angle plate you found was called? Did you cut it with a dremel?
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by A_Locomotive View Post
The wires off the ESC actually appear to be the same gauge as the stock motors. They are surprisingly thin. I think i will just extend the wires and eliminate those connectors to the motor like you said.

What's wrong with the tamiya style connectors? I was going to go with them simply because all of my NIMH batteries have them already. I suppose i could just get a tamiya to EC3 adapter for now. Of the different style connectors are any easier to solder then others?

what set up are you putting in yours? Lets see some pics! WTCCs car is inspiring me to think about future changes I could make. I think when i go to my LHS today to get some wire and shrink wrap I will bring the chassis with me and see if I can locate some suitable parts to change out all of the turn buckles to make them more easily adjustable. I am wondering also, the toe on the car based on the instructions has given me very noticeable toe out. Is that normal for this kit, or perhaps I had a dyslexic moment with my tape measure?
Tamiya connectors are sh*t, fam. Very high resistance, and work loose over time, increasing resistance even more and causing random shutdowns. I badly soldered some deans as a replacement and got an instant speed boost. I've only soldered deans and xt30 before. Deans is easier to solder, but xt series connectors have a tighter connection.

Re-check your tie rod lengths carefully and your servo placement.

I have the exact same kit as you, I'm stickering it up right now. I need to buy an ESC and rob the receiver from one of my other cars.
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:52 AM
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Was reading up on the various connectors. Think I will get some EC3 and just save one battery with the tamiya connects for my my B2 for the time being unless i decide to change that as well, its primarily a shelf queen since parts are so hard to find, its restoration took about 4 months just to find the 3 parts it was missing. Haha

I also think I will look for some bearings for the front wheels. All of those bushings have to add quite a bit to the rolling resistance.

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Old 10-06-2019, 03:44 PM
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Electronics done! Electronics tested and all seems well. The wire control for the servo and ESC is temporary while i finish the build as I am sure having them wrapped around the motor and battery wiring isnt a good idea.
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Old 10-06-2019, 04:02 PM
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Be careful not to overtighten the front wheel nuts.
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Old 10-06-2019, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Sir 51D3WAYS View Post
Be careful not to overtighten the front wheel nuts.
Will do! Is there some sort of tell to know when this has happened? I would imagine you mean due to it having bushings in place of bearings and they need a little slack to freely move correct? I am taping the tires now(I actually really like this method of attaching the tires!).
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:22 PM
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It will happen with bearings as well. Just spin the tire to see if it spins freely. I reckon that's fully tighten, then back off a half turn, but yours may vary. I hate the tyre tape thingy, it is hard to ensure the tyres are sitting properly without being "squeezed" and therefore stressed all the time.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:56 PM
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Done! I believe I have The rear wheels tightened properly, how free moving should the rear diff be? Its a little stiffer then I expected. It does seems like its free spinning on being given power, i havent taken it outside yet as there are some issues i need to adjust with my 3PV but I've only messed with the settings once and cant find the manual so its going to be slow going. The throttle is reversed right now and I definitely need to set end points on the servo and it twists the whole chassis going lock to lock.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:34 PM
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Quite free, but crucially it must be smooth without the spur gear slipping. This kit tends to be a touch on the tight side of things....
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:16 PM
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Ran it briefly today. I definitely need to play around with the differential. It's definitely slipping, unless I am going really easy on the throttle it slips on acceleration. This is my final wire routing I think. The only thing i might change is where I have the reciever antenna, I'd like to keep it hidden on this car, I have it zip tied on top of the battery compartment at an angle underneither the suspension, it is free and clear for the most part but the suspension does hit at certain angles.
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