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Serpent X20

Old 12-17-2019, 03:00 PM
  #226  
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We have had really good results with the asymmetric decks recently.

Arguably the fastest car in the market, the Awesomatix has been running an asymmetrical top deck up Until the new version. Weve been testing with both, since we have access to both, under certain conditions the design of the asymmetrical top deck gives great performance.

Id say dont knock it until you try it. It has numerous other benefits including durability, ease of use and gear adjustment. I was skeptical at first, but after the results we have been getting, we are planning on developing top decks for not only our car, butbother brands as well.
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Old 12-17-2019, 05:52 PM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
We have had really good results with the asymmetric decks recently.

Arguably the fastest car in the market, the Awesomatix has been running an asymmetrical top deck up Until the new version. We’ve been testing with both, since we have access to both, under certain conditions the design of the asymmetrical top deck gives great performance.

I’d say don’t knock it until you try it. It has numerous other benefits including durability, ease of use and gear adjustment. I was skeptical at first, but after the results we have been getting, we are planning on developing top decks for not only our car, butbother brands as well.
I'm still skeptical, however I could see it being ok as long as you don't have much or any flex (bending front to rear) between the center of the chassis where the top deck deviates from being symmetric. Definitely trying it is the best way.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:24 PM
  #228  
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My aluminum car IS stiffer than when I had the carbon chassis





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Old 12-19-2019, 07:52 AM
  #229  
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Very nice Dawgmeat! It looks very nice and clean. I kind of wish I went Aluminum but I hope with all the chassis adjustments coming out will allow me to fine tune it more. Also with the new upper deck being made by Cristian Tabush will make a very big improvement.
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Old 12-19-2019, 10:38 AM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by Brian10811 View Post
OK guys I got the first race in with the new Serpent Medius X20. (sorry for the poor photos. I have a bad lens on my camera phone)
I first want to post comment on the negative part of the car. The building of the car sucked! I got the box and it had NO manual booklet. So I had to use the download manual on the Serpent web site and if you look through it you will see no real setup to run. Some of the photos were not very clear when you are dealing with small parts. Also no support for a base setup on any of the sites I could find related to Serpent. With that said....
I went to the track with how the manual recommended and my final adjustments on my setup station which is a very must have with this car.
So the track is a covered concrete treated track and I am running 17.5 blinky with a Protoform Type S body. I never changed bodies so I wanted a base for my testing.
Once I got my radio adjustments for steering I made my first lap around the track. One thing that really grabbed my attention was how straight the car tracks. With standard tie rod cars I always felt the car would have a slight drift to one side with the play in the linkage. This car was dead straight! As I entered the corners I really like how smooth the car rotates around. The mid motor really is a smoother feel compared to my rear motor car. After a few laps I went back to the pits to find a setup. The manual build was not going to work as I suspected.
As I made changes throughout the day I really like how I could make a small change and instantly tell the effect on the track. For me that was a huge plus. The other awesome aspect with this car because of the pivot balls front and rear is huge range adjustments at your disposal with the box stock. I could change caster, rear toe with tie-rod links, I could change rear hub angle. With a C hub car and standard rear hub cars you have to buy those adjustments. This was awesome because I am kind of a cheapy and a bit of a lazy tuner. Meaning I would rather work with what I got rather than going through the trouble of buying a 3 degree hub and changing it only to find out I don't like the feel of it and stuck with a part I will never use.
This was a HUGE plus in my book. I can run a 3.5 degree front caster with a .5 degree rear hub angle if I want. This is precision tuning in my book and I love looking for the hot setup.
All day I searched for a setup and as I tested and tested I enjoyed the car steady improvement. I qualified 4th and managed to finish 2nd. I even had a pass for 1st spot but got spun out.
All in all I am very impressed with the results with the car.
A few key notes if you want to buy the Serpent X20
1: Keep your PC near by because you will need to download the manual and use to build.
2: The car does not come with any chassis braces which I think is a bit of a negative but worked fine without but I will be buying a couple because the car has a tone of flex.
3: Make sure you have a setup station and board. You will need a setup station with caster adjustments.
4: Perhaps soon some setups will be posted to give you a starting point.
I hope this helps!


Hey Brian, I know these are older pictures of your car, but I haven't seen anything posted that is newer from you where I can see the rear steering links, but by the look of the angle of those rods, I'd say you have the inner rear steer block mounted one hole off on your chassis. It should be towards the rear one hole, or so that if you use the rear optional stiffener , you have one screw hole to mount it to. If you have corrected it, please ignore.
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Old 12-19-2019, 12:08 PM
  #231  
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Well, after a entire weekend of running this car at a away race and now getting it on my home track to do some testing here are a couple observations. Take this into consideration, all the runs are on black carpet, so your experience could vary.
- the base setup gives a very neutral feeling car with a slight under steer.
- if your running the car without any of the stiffener options on a aluminum chassis, you can actually see the for and aft flex of the car move thru the top deck and is mostly in the forward section of the car. This flex is enough that even with proper belt tension it is possible to throw the front belt on impact. I haven't broken a top deck but have thrown the belt a couple times now. The only fix that seemed to work for me is to use a post just behind the servo to the top deck. (You can see the top deck is drilled for a 3mm screw)
- using any of the rear stiffener options seems to lock the car down even more, it increases side and forward grip, which creates more under steer.
- that second cage around the front bumper should be trimmed off, it was the same on the 411 and just bends down eventually causing drag and push on the car.
- so far I have had no diff or shock leakage and both items feel very smooth, the diff specifically feels much better than the 411 did, so if you're still running a 411 this could be a good upgrade.
-one of the adjustments on the car that is not explained.
- the upper rear arm adjustment is for adjusting the wheelbase of the car, I think 1mm on the spacer is about 0.5mm change.

I'll post up a link to my setup once I find something that works for my track. I will also have some build tips to follow shortly.
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Old 12-19-2019, 12:11 PM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
My aluminum car IS stiffer than when I had the carbon chassis





That car must be very light. Nicely built.
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Old 12-19-2019, 02:07 PM
  #233  
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Hey Wishbone,
Thanks for the post and your experience on black carpet. I could imagine the aluminum chassis would feel very well on black carpet. I ran my carbon chassis without any stiffeners and I just could not get the edge of traction rolling out of the car. Now that I put the X-brace- on behind the motor, the car feels much better even on asphalt. Perhaps you have read my post above but I am replacing the top that will be slightly stiffer . Perhaps with it I will try the carbon again on black carpet.
As for the front belt coming off. I had the same issue. A friend of mine that runs a mid motor car (Gizmo) told me mid motors run the front belt slightly tighter or run a front belt tentioner. I made it one notch tighter and I have not had any issues.
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Old 12-20-2019, 04:22 AM
  #234  
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Felix just posted up a video for tips on high traction tracks.
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:00 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
My aluminum car IS stiffer than when I had the carbon chassis
Dawgmeat, looking at your pics I noticed your upper front arms are oriented the opposite way. Not sure what bearing that has on caster setting but it the opposite of all the other pics I've seen.
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:03 PM
  #236  
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Speaking of front upper arm settings....if you run the arm in the forward direction a setting with 3mm at the front comes out to 6* of caster, a setting of 2mm measures 4* of caster.

Also take note off of Felixs' video a track width setting of;
See the supplied charts below. Post # 252


If your running on a click track or any of those hard wall tracks, I'd recommend taking about 2 threads off of all the stub axels. The seem a little long and can catch those board joints which tends to break parts.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 12-26-2019 at 09:49 AM. Reason: new information
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:07 PM
  #237  
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For all those people that e-mailed, texted, messaged and phoned, yes, its true, I am back at Team Serpent. Looking forward to ringing out the X20. Thanks Serpent America.
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:28 PM
  #238  
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[email protected] my life there are backward lol, probably running 2 degrees of caster, I change it tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:33 PM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
[email protected] my life there are backward lol, probably running 2 degrees of caster, I change it tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up
rookie
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Old 12-23-2019, 10:09 AM
  #240  
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Here are a couple build tips.

If you find that your having DJC problems and you can't get Serpent replacements, these ARC units will work.

I like to run bearing crush sleeves in my cars, the AE ones will work, I used a 0.02mm shim as well as the crush in the front hubs, the rears require no shims.


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