1Likes1/10 TC set up station help
09-14-2019, 02:49 PM
#1
1/10 TC set up station help
Guys I am a bit perplexed. Set up station is second hand but is in good condition all bearings free, etc. Camber gauge is new. Used the set up station to set camber but when I checked with wheels on ready to run with camber gauge it looked out so I used the camber gauge to fine tune to 2 deg all round which is what I initially set on the station I thought I should check seeing I moved them a fair bit. When I put the car back on the set up station I ended up with 4 deg camber on the right and 3 on the left. Should I trust my set up station before my eyes with the tyres and camber gauge. I can't imagine this is normal for them not to line up ? Any help will save me hours.
Thanks
09-14-2019, 02:51 PM
#2
09-14-2019, 03:18 PM
#3
Well, a few things come to mind that maybe will help:
1) when you put the car in the setup station, are you pumping the suspension down a few times? This is just to ensure it comes to a “natural” resting point after it has moved a bit. Also, I would make sure that your ride height is set first, and you’ve adjusted tweak. Either change will alter the suspension geometry, which will of course make the set camber change slightly.
2) Your camber gauge is hanging off the edge, and unless It’s just the lighting, I think I can see daylight underneath the bottom edge. Is that aluminum edge on the setup board perfectly flush with the surface? If not, make sure you can place the gauge completely on the surface so that it’s perfectly flat. If you don’t that fixed gauge won’t be giving you an accurate reading. To eliminate any “variance” that the wheels might introduce, it might not be a bad idea to measure with setup wheels, which will give you a very flat surface to measure against. Yeah, I know - yet more equipment just to set up a car, but think about it. How much equipment do you think an actual race team uses to set the suspension of a real car? 🙂
1) when you put the car in the setup station, are you pumping the suspension down a few times? This is just to ensure it comes to a “natural” resting point after it has moved a bit. Also, I would make sure that your ride height is set first, and you’ve adjusted tweak. Either change will alter the suspension geometry, which will of course make the set camber change slightly.
2) Your camber gauge is hanging off the edge, and unless It’s just the lighting, I think I can see daylight underneath the bottom edge. Is that aluminum edge on the setup board perfectly flush with the surface? If not, make sure you can place the gauge completely on the surface so that it’s perfectly flat. If you don’t that fixed gauge won’t be giving you an accurate reading. To eliminate any “variance” that the wheels might introduce, it might not be a bad idea to measure with setup wheels, which will give you a very flat surface to measure against. Yeah, I know - yet more equipment just to set up a car, but think about it. How much equipment do you think an actual race team uses to set the suspension of a real car? 🙂
09-14-2019, 05:54 PM
#4
09-14-2019, 07:43 PM
#5
Wheels can bend...
09-14-2019, 08:21 PM
#6
Tech Addict
Bent wheels could be the culprit. Run the car with wheels off the ground and see if they wobble. Setup wheels ensure the you are measuring a true surface to the hub. I would trust the setup station as long as you are sure it's in good order.
09-14-2019, 09:52 PM
#7
I always use the setup station for adjusting camber, toe, and steering end points, just to be consistent and I'm confident that they produce more accurate results than plastic wheels and fixed gauges.
The fixed gauges IMO are good for a quick check but to be accurate there are more factors for errors. In my experience I find it hard to gauge when they are considered to be “in contact” when the wheel and gauge are very close together.There is always some slop in the suspension and the wheel can accommodate a certain degree of movement when the gauge seems like its touching the wheel surface. Whereas on the station you are only observing the reading after the suspension settles and not disturbing it by placing the gauge against the tire.
Some additional tips for how I setup my car:
1. Untweak Chassis
2. Down Stops (using Droop Blocks)
3. Sway Bars
Raise one arm with a step gauge or ruler
Note reading when opposite arm starts raising
Lengthen sawy bar link on the side with a higher measure, while shortening at the opposite)
4. Reset/even the damper spring retainers
5. Ride Height (set using rubber tires)
Downstop and ride height adjustments affect the amount of droop so I check for actual up travel of the chassis and go back to step 2 if necessary to achieve a certain amount of uptravel/ droop. (Raising chassis from rest until the dampers fully extend)
6. Setup Station: Toe > Camber > Servo EPA (this is in order of effect that each setting has on the rest)
Hope this helps, and any suggestions to improve/adjust the method is appreciated.
The fixed gauges IMO are good for a quick check but to be accurate there are more factors for errors. In my experience I find it hard to gauge when they are considered to be “in contact” when the wheel and gauge are very close together.There is always some slop in the suspension and the wheel can accommodate a certain degree of movement when the gauge seems like its touching the wheel surface. Whereas on the station you are only observing the reading after the suspension settles and not disturbing it by placing the gauge against the tire.
Some additional tips for how I setup my car:
1. Untweak Chassis
2. Down Stops (using Droop Blocks)
3. Sway Bars
Raise one arm with a step gauge or ruler
Note reading when opposite arm starts raising
Lengthen sawy bar link on the side with a higher measure, while shortening at the opposite)
4. Reset/even the damper spring retainers
5. Ride Height (set using rubber tires)
Downstop and ride height adjustments affect the amount of droop so I check for actual up travel of the chassis and go back to step 2 if necessary to achieve a certain amount of uptravel/ droop. (Raising chassis from rest until the dampers fully extend)
6. Setup Station: Toe > Camber > Servo EPA (this is in order of effect that each setting has on the rest)
Hope this helps, and any suggestions to improve/adjust the method is appreciated.
09-16-2019, 06:31 PM
#8
As stated use setup wheels, if you dont have any you can place your camber gauge against the vertical plate on your setup station that mounts to the wheel hub to double check. Yet you are running a great setup station, so should be no worries with that arrowmax!
09-18-2019, 04:53 AM
#9
Thanks guys new to this so all your feedback is much appreciated. I feel like I know where I'm going now. First run next week so hopefully it returns in one piece.
09-18-2019, 04:54 AM
#10
09-21-2019, 10:50 AM
#12
Tech Apprentice
Always trust set-up station !
Use Zooracing Préopard for stock
Tires: Volante 28 CP
On carpet, the grip will come very quickly !
Use Zooracing Préopard for stock
Tires: Volante 28 CP
On carpet, the grip will come very quickly !
09-21-2019, 08:35 PM
#13
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Little side note for some, setup boards are not always 100% true. I often find some boards will read around a half of a degree of camber wrong on one of the wheels. Rotating the car around the board and testing it on others will help your accuracy to pinpoint if a corner might be off. I know my top right corner of the board reads a extra half degree of camber so I always adjust for that.
09-26-2019, 01:33 AM
#15
Just a hobbyking blaze r2 but it has a few upgrades. Still cheap though. BTW after its first run it came back in two pieces....driver issues....
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