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3RACING SAKURA ADVANCE 20M

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3RACING SAKURA ADVANCE 20M

Old 09-25-2020, 07:56 AM
  #286  
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Originally Posted by gwc View Post
Most tracks have a 21.5 TC class and that is a great place to start in TC.
Our classes are both 21.5

We have:
Production (Tamiya style base kits with no adjustments. Bone stock except bearings and USGT tires are allowed)
Expert Production (only if a large amount show up, to separate the faster and slower guys)
GT1 (Older/Cheaper TC chassis, blinky, 21.5 locked timing, USGT tires, 1300g weight "standard road appearing bodies")
GT2 (Any chassis, Any body, blinky, 21.5 open motor timing, any tires, tire warmers allowed)

Track is asphalt, indoors, on a golf course. They have a building they use for banquets and gatherings after the golf tournaments, so it is empty 95% of the year. They set up a track for us to race on. Great place!

https://hodrc.com/

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Old 09-25-2020, 08:03 AM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
Another comment. I ordered these arms and built the kit with them. WARNING!!!! the arms are about 1mm wider at the inner hinge pin than the stock harder arms. I assume you could re-shim it with smaller shims, I just sanded the arms down a bit to get the width correctly.

Also, I had a dragging sound when I would rotate the drivetrain. I found it was the 2 metal shims they have you install between the center spur gear and the uprights. I removed both and there was no longer a drag. I may need to reinstall 1 of them after I run it, but so far it doesnt seem to be sloppy without the shims.
I have ran my M20 in 8 race days and as many practices with all original parts and have broken nothing, and I am not an A main driver.
Run an Axon DTS spur gear they do not need to be shimmed.
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Old 09-25-2020, 06:16 PM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
yes older chassis is the idea. most people are using Schumacher Mi1V2's but they are impossible to find.

The rules state chassis up to 2010, any kit $250 or less, or any RTR $350 or less, locked timing 21.5, blinky esc, USGT spec tire (or kit supplied tire if applicable). Then of course it has the stipulation that all cars should run with front and rear diff, no one way, spool, solid axle, etc.
So why run a chassis from 2020 if the rules state 2010 or older?
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Old 09-25-2020, 07:01 PM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by tomcat125 View Post
So why run a chassis from 2020 if the rules state 2010 or older?
Good point.
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Old 09-25-2020, 09:52 PM
  #290  
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"or $250 or less" Why wouldnt you want to run a newer updated chassis if you can find one in the price range. It wont matter, I suck so I wont be winning. I would rather have a newer kit that I could hope to find parts for when I break it with my poor driving than buy an ancient kit and not find parts. Like I said, I wanted a Schumacher Mi1v2... but go ahead and find me one.

And before I get a bunch of people saying that it costs more than $250....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3RACING-KIT...gAAOSwmCpfZhEk

Now back to the part where I am trying to help other people with potential problems I found while also trying to solve other problems that I havent been able to figure out myself....

I just found out that the stock 114t spur is quite a bit too large for my 21.5 motor, so I will be shopping for some of those Axon spurs now too.
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Old 09-26-2020, 04:03 AM
  #291  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
"or $250 or less" Why wouldnt you want to run a newer updated chassis if you can find one in the price range. It wont matter, I suck so I wont be winning. I would rather have a newer kit that I could hope to find parts for when I break it with my poor driving than buy an ancient kit and not find parts. Like I said, I wanted a Schumacher Mi1v2... but go ahead and find me one.

And before I get a bunch of people saying that it costs more than $250....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3RACING-KIT...gAAOSwmCpfZhEk

Now back to the part where I am trying to help other people with potential problems I found while also trying to solve other problems that I havent been able to figure out myself....

I just found out that the stock 114t spur is quite a bit too large for my 21.5 motor, so I will be shopping for some of those Axon spurs now too.
Can't go wrong with the Axon DTS spur gears. For me the gearing sweet spot for the 21.5 in my M20 is 3.8:1 with a 90t 64p spur and a 45t pinion.
BTW if your kit is one of the newer ones like mine it came with a pair of aluminum bearing carriers if so use those in the front with the spool and the plastic ones in the rear.
Hope you enjoy the M20 as much as I have 👍
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Old 09-26-2020, 06:17 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
Another comment. I ordered these arms and built the kit with them. WARNING!!!! the arms are about 1mm wider at the inner hinge pin than the stock harder arms. I assume you could re-shim it with smaller shims, I just sanded the arms down a bit to get the arm width correct.

Also, I had a dragging sound when I would rotate the drivetrain. I found it was the 2 metal shims they have you install between the center spur gear and the uprights. I removed both and there was no longer a drag. I may need to reinstall 1 of them after I run it, but so far it doesnt seem to be sloppy without the shims.
yes u need new shims .

On a side note, the diff does fit in the s64.

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Old 09-26-2020, 06:37 PM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
"or $250 or less" Why wouldnt you want to run a newer updated chassis if you can find one in the price range. It wont matter, I suck so I wont be winning. I would rather have a newer kit that I could hope to find parts for when I break it with my poor driving than buy an ancient kit and not find parts. Like I said, I wanted a Schumacher Mi1v2... but go ahead and find me one.

And before I get a bunch of people saying that it costs more than $250....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3RACING-KIT...gAAOSwmCpfZhEk

Now back to the part where I am trying to help other people with potential problems I found while also trying to solve other problems that I havent been able to figure out myself....

I just found out that the stock 114t spur is quite a bit too large for my 21.5 motor, so I will be shopping for some of those Axon spurs now too.
Oh OK. I read it as it had to be pre 2010.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:50 PM
  #294  
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Looking for a good starting point for the car - running on black carpet in VTA... any suggestions.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:11 PM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by wrutherf View Post
Looking for a good starting point for the car - running on black carpet in VTA... any suggestions.
Can't say about VTA, but I ran 17.5 TC with mine.
I built mine by the book with included oils. Went with 1 degree camber all around and front toe out. Handled great from the get go on black carpet. I'd say VTA just get your ride height as close to 5mm as possible and somewhere around 3.5-4.0 to start on gearing depending on what motor and timing you're running. If the black carpet is grooved in I'd probably go ahead and glue the front sidewalls. I'm running an Ultimate 2012 chassis in VTA right now and had to actually glue all the way over the first outside tread in the front to keep from traction rolling. The 20m may not need that much as it seemed to be a bit more loose in the rear than my other 3 racing cars. Good luck with it and let us know how it does. moparSRT may have a more VTA specific setup for you.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:28 PM
  #296  
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For a few weeks i have been running a TT-02 stock "production" class car, my only experience running a touring car ever. I showed up tonight with the 20M for GT2, set it down for practice laps to shake the car down, not intending to race it this week just to shake it down. I immediately turn laps on pace for a winning car, around 9.5-9.6s. So I signed it up. First round I had hot lap overall at a 9.439, my consistency killed me for a 2nd place overall (out of 6 cars). Second round I was 3rd overall. Made some changes to soften my springs for the main (I had been running the stock kit black springs all around, went to the setup sheet orange/yellow). Car felt a bit lazy and spongey, so I think I need to go back up a few rates, but the car was amazing out of the box.

I opened a few eyes tonight who were all quite surprised how good the car was in the hands of a "noob". Very happy.
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:47 AM
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Also, it appears that a few people are in the same situation i am in. The cars all come with solid front axles. So for now it is not an issue for me to run it that way and the rules may even change to eliminate the diff restriction. Also, 3racing has finally responded to me and confirmed that I will be able to use the 21M diff as soon as it is made available. The 21M kit is apparently available now, but the individual parts arent in stock yet.

Diff for 21M... https://3racing.shop/products/sak-a5...009b8227&_ss=r

21M kit... https://3racing.shop/products/advanc...ouring-chassis

Looks like the moved the motor rearward again, the belts arent equal. Maybe closer to the 60/40 of the S64 kit.
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Old 09-30-2020, 01:11 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
Also, it appears that a few people are in the same situation i am in. The cars all come with solid front axles. So for now it is not an issue for me to run it that way and the rules may even change to eliminate the diff restriction. Also, 3racing has finally responded to me and confirmed that I will be able to use the 21M diff as soon as it is made available. The 21M kit is apparently available now, but the individual parts arent in stock yet.

Diff for 21M... https://3racing.shop/products/sak-a5...009b8227&_ss=r

21M kit... https://3racing.shop/products/advanc...ouring-chassis

Looks like the moved the motor rearward again, the belts arent equal. Maybe closer to the 60/40 of the S64 kit.
The 21M looks like it would be a really good chassis for asphalt and low grip carpet racing.
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Old 10-26-2020, 06:47 PM
  #299  
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Anyone using the aluminum chassis on the 20M? I made a pair of floating brass plates, one for the receiver and fan, one for the ESC, to mount the electronics. I can share dimensions or I can share STL files from Fusion360 if you want to 3D print them instead. (Being a clockmaker I have lots of brass lying around).

I also 3D printed a front support similar to WillS. I added a plate to it for mounting a mylaps with a velcro dot. I can share that too. Next time I get around to the board (if I'm able) I can post some pictures.
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Old 10-26-2020, 07:25 PM
  #300  
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Originally Posted by Flyingmaddog View Post
Anyone using the aluminum chassis on the 20M? I made a pair of floating brass plates, one for the receiver and fan, one for the ESC, to mount the electronics. I can share dimensions or I can share STL files from Fusion360 if you want to 3D print them instead. (Being a clockmaker I have lots of brass lying around).

I also 3D printed a front support similar to WillS. I added a plate to it for mounting a mylaps with a velcro dot. I can share that too. Next time I get around to the board (if I'm able) I can post some pictures.
90% of the weight I needed to add was on the battery side.
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