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Tamiya TRF420 Thread

Old 01-02-2020, 06:37 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by rayrush View Post
Hi, does anyone know if the trf420 c hubs, knuckles and uprights are same dimensions and transferable to ta07ms?
You'll have to upgrade suspension arms too. The outer hinge pins on the TRF420 are 3mm. Tamiya sells a kit: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...nsion-upgrade/
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Old 01-02-2020, 06:45 PM
  #212  
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Thanks for quick reply!
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Old 01-06-2020, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by GimpyGolden View Post
My thinking is if the new suspension plastics are more durable it can't do anything but help the popularity of TFR cars.
I am putting the 420 bits on my Evo 7 and hoping for good result. Guess I will find out on the weekend...

Yep, much more durable. Ran all weekend and only break was a steering Knuckle. And it was a hard hit.
Kit works great on my Evo7.
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Old 01-07-2020, 01:07 PM
  #214  
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I think the TRF420 is a very very good car. I have been running with the latest version of the Mugen MTC-1 for 1 year. I really like the high quality of the MTC-1, no vibrations, very silent drive train, great dampers etc. But already on the third lap out of the box, only change xray springs, the TRF420 felt much better. And it is faster and a lot more consistent. A bit fascinating that there still can be this big difference between cars.
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Old 01-08-2020, 08:17 PM
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does anyone know what differential outdrive i can use on this gear differential which is no C-blade. i don't want to use any C-blade because the tamiya C-blade wear to fast and it will damage the outdrive if you don't notice that they broke.
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Old 01-08-2020, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tommy1030 View Post
does anyone know what differential outdrive i can use on this gear differential which is no C-blade. i don't want to use any C-blade because the tamiya C-blade wear to fast and it will damage the outdrive if you don't notice that they broke.
The new trf420 blades are much stronger. That would be a good choice. They have to be sanded down a bit to fit freely also. I believe Spec-R also makes blades for Tamiya outdrives. Look those up.
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Old 01-08-2020, 11:03 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by tommy1030 View Post
does anyone know what differential outdrive i can use on this gear differential which is no C-blade. i don't want to use any C-blade because the tamiya C-blade wear to fast and it will damage the outdrive if you don't notice that they broke.
Definitely try the new blades in black, they are more resilient and not brittle like the white ones. On the rear they don't wear down much, and when they do crack in the front spool they don't shatter like the white ones and destroy the outdrive.
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Old 01-16-2020, 07:24 AM
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Is there a preferred tool and/or technique to install, remove and free up the sway bar mounts in the arms? I've just sacrificed my first arm when attempting to remove a 'too snug' ball end from the mount....

I'm actually pretty surprised that they didn't use a metal ball for that lower mount..especially considering some of the other steps they have taken to keep things free and smooth...
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Old 01-16-2020, 10:47 AM
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You have to trim it, I just sanded mine down till free
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Old 01-17-2020, 07:12 PM
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Does anybody have any tips or techniques to remove the ballcup from the arm if it isn't quite 'free' enough and needs to have more removed?

NVM....found a pair of long thin, tapered tweezers that can slide and and ease the cup off the ball end...

Last edited by ChrisP; 01-17-2020 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 01-18-2020, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisP View Post
Does anybody have any tips or techniques to remove the ballcup from the arm if it isn't quite 'free' enough and needs to have more removed?

NVM....found a pair of long thin, tapered tweezers that can slide and and ease the cup off the ball end...
For making the ball cups fit on the TRF420 front arms, I used a ball cup reamer tool made by SQUARE (Part# TRX-41) to work on the ball cup instead of sanding the ball on the arm since its not very accessible. The tool has a cutting ball head with adjustable expansion to trim the inside of the ball cups.

Alternatively, you can use a body hole reamer to trim on both sides of the ball cup, removing material from the "collar" so it doesn't grab so tight onto the ball. The advantage of the SQUARE tool is that it trims from the "inside" of the ball cup (due to the ball shaped cutting tool), rather than from the outside with a tapered tool like a body reamer. A body reamer will do the job of freeing it up but sometimes making it pop off easily as well.

5mm?????????? 5mm ball end reamer | ?????? | SQUARE ?????? -PRODUCTS-

For attaching and removing the ball cups, try using the end of a pair of tweezers (the flat, wide end) and insert it between the ball and arms, it works as a pivot to leverage it on and off of the arm.

EDIT: Thanks, your method works well for removing them.
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Old 01-18-2020, 09:03 AM
  #222  
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Does anybody know of any c hubs which may fit this?

It seems the UK stock and RC mart are completely out of c Hubs and knuckles for the next 6 weeks.

The 419 knuckles fit no problem, but the c hubs are a proving a little harder to find one which fits.
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:05 PM
  #223  
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I’m lookkng into a new touring car. How does this compared to say a BD10, or a tc7.2 or an t4 2020 ?
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:13 PM
  #224  
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I didnít sand the mounting balls on the arms for the tight-fitting sway bar adjusters, but instead used the 54257 adjusters. You have to trim them down a little to match the size of the kit adjusters, but they fit well on the balls without sanding, and have free movement with no slop.





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Old 01-23-2020, 09:02 AM
  #225  
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all i did is trim the seamline with exacto knife and mine are fine
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