XRAY T4'20 SPEC
#946

Having never ran a solid aluminum chassis, how does it work on a medium-high traction black carpet track? (specifically USGT and VTA). Stick with the aluminum-flex for the best performance?
Or is the solid aluminum chassis only best reserved for high to ultra-high big races?
Or is the solid aluminum chassis only best reserved for high to ultra-high big races?
#947
#949

RC Market prices:
T4 2021 $629
T4 2021 conversion set $240
So think twice before buying an used T4 2020 for more than $389. hahaha.
T4 2021 $629
T4 2021 conversion set $240
So think twice before buying an used T4 2020 for more than $389. hahaha.
#951
#952
#953

The solid is the chassis to go to on almost all carpet surfaces. Even when 360 had gray carpet for NYGP last year, the whole team ran the solid chassis in 17.5 and slower classes.
Ive never been to a race on black carpet where flex was faster. To me, the flex chassis makes great steering but it twists too much and scrubs corner speed. The solid carries better corner speed and can be tuned to generate the same steering.
I would recommend using the 1.6 topdeck with the solid chassis. From my experience, carpet cars are always better with a stiffer chassis and softer topdeck. The softer topdeck will help calm down a car that is tippy, and it increases mid-corner steering.
Ive never been to a race on black carpet where flex was faster. To me, the flex chassis makes great steering but it twists too much and scrubs corner speed. The solid carries better corner speed and can be tuned to generate the same steering.
I would recommend using the 1.6 topdeck with the solid chassis. From my experience, carpet cars are always better with a stiffer chassis and softer topdeck. The softer topdeck will help calm down a car that is tippy, and it increases mid-corner steering.
#954
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)

So, I have a T4 20, box setup except for a few roll center changes I have tried with inner link shims. We race on low grip carpet, and with the mid motor car I am lacking rear traction. I just got a new body painted up that is the JP8 from Bitty that is high downforce, and I will try it out tonight before any other changes.
but, if the body doesn’t give enough, what’s some changes I can make to get the rear to stick better?
but, if the body doesn’t give enough, what’s some changes I can make to get the rear to stick better?
#955
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)

Is the car over steering at corner entry, mid corner, or corner exit. That will have an impact on what changes to look at.
You can also try downloading the Hudy Setup book. On the last page, it has a table that lists out setup changes based on car behavior. Here is a link Setup Book. The top entry is the english setup manual.
You can also try downloading the Hudy Setup book. On the last page, it has a table that lists out setup changes based on car behavior. Here is a link Setup Book. The top entry is the english setup manual.
#956
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)

Is the car over steering at corner entry, mid corner, or corner exit. That will have an impact on what changes to look at.
You can also try downloading the Hudy Setup book. On the last page, it has a table that lists out setup changes based on car behavior. Here is a link Setup Book. The top entry is the english setup manual.
You can also try downloading the Hudy Setup book. On the last page, it has a table that lists out setup changes based on car behavior. Here is a link Setup Book. The top entry is the english setup manual.
entry. Good on the high speed sweeping turns, bad in the infield that’s tight with several direction changes.
will look at the book. Think I am going to move my electronics around, and take some droop out of the rear to start with.
#958
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)

Well, took some rear droop out and it was better for sure. Body helped quite a bit really. Actually had to turn the dual rate up a little. Went up to 5000 diff fluid and it was pretty good. Ended up TQing in the second round of qualifying and lead the race till the last 2 laps and just have the race away. LoL oh well, it was fun.
so, next week we don’t race on road, so, I have 2 weeks to rewire and reposition the esc and reciever like it’s meant to be. I was in a hurry and didn’t have any wire to put the esc behind motor, so it’s in front and I think the weight from esc in the rear, will help a lot. So, I look forward to racing again in a couple weeks! Thanks for the tips guys. The droop adjustments definitely helped.
so, next week we don’t race on road, so, I have 2 weeks to rewire and reposition the esc and reciever like it’s meant to be. I was in a hurry and didn’t have any wire to put the esc behind motor, so it’s in front and I think the weight from esc in the rear, will help a lot. So, I look forward to racing again in a couple weeks! Thanks for the tips guys. The droop adjustments definitely helped.
#959

Hello Everyone... With the indoor season upon us I wanted to share my setups from this past weekends Halloween Classic in Cleveland, OH. I ran 17.5 TC also Stock Spec TC.... Stock Spec TC we ran the MOTIV USGT 21.5 Closed Timing Motor
Cars worked well all weekend... 17.5 was able to TQ/finish 3rd - Stock I qualified 2nd and finished 2nd
17.5 Set Up: https://setup.teamxray.com/sheet/view?userSheetId=19246
Stock Set Up: https://setup.teamxray.com/sheet/view?userSheetId=19247
If anyone has any questions please let me know...
Cars worked well all weekend... 17.5 was able to TQ/finish 3rd - Stock I qualified 2nd and finished 2nd
17.5 Set Up: https://setup.teamxray.com/sheet/view?userSheetId=19246
Stock Set Up: https://setup.teamxray.com/sheet/view?userSheetId=19247
If anyone has any questions please let me know...