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XRAY T4'20 SPEC

Old 04-02-2020, 06:00 PM
  #781  
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Quick note to the pix I posted a few Posts back.
I saw on a few set up sheets that 10 grms of wt
ahead of an behind battery. I stacked two nickels
together and lay em down frnt n rear. I chose Nickels becuase for Sum Reason I knew they were
5 grms each and also very low CG of mounting Wt.
I have a Bud that has a Scales set up,so I showed at His Hse. The Car WT. Was 50-50/50-50 LoL
we were Laughing. ! Cheers!
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:55 PM
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Anyone run the new RC maker chassis. Whatís your thoughts thx
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Old 04-04-2020, 07:41 AM
  #783  
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Originally Posted by danny250r View Post
Anyone run the new RC maker chassis. Whatís your thoughts thx
yep it is good
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Old 04-11-2020, 08:24 AM
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Just about done with my build and am looking for some gearing recommendations. Iím using a Tekin 17.5 and the stock spur for now, and will be running on a medium size track. Iím looking for some pinion sizes to start with, since I havenít done anything with on-road in about 20 years.

Also, does anyone offer a different carbon piece for the servo mount? Iím looking for something that is closer to the center to center of Tekin servo. The stock carbon piece is a little too wide, and I canít use the aluminum servo washers that I always use on my off-road builds to keep the servo from shifting in the mount in a crash.
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Old 04-16-2020, 05:01 AM
  #785  
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ARENA New single side upper deck for T4'20

New version Upper Deck is now improved design.


Refer to the excellent design of the upper deck of the previous generation and is transplanted to the current T4'20 car kit

It can reach slewing performance reaction in cornering.


Comes with 1mm shims to provide more meticulous twisting space for the Lower deck and Upper deck.







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Old 04-16-2020, 03:52 PM
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i am struggling to understand how such an asymetrical design can work without making the car handling asymetric... what I like about the stock design is its very symmetry... This is totally beyond me.
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Old 04-16-2020, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post



On another note - what are these UJ's and blades, please?
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Old 04-17-2020, 05:37 AM
  #788  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Hey folks, not a '20-specific Q but there are probably some insights in this thread anyway

My whole team (my 10yo, my 13yo and yours truly) runs T4's of varied MY. the younger team members, as they tend to crash quite a bit, don't break much as the car is so robust, but they do chew quite a few front blades (yes, they run the alloy outdrives, as my former cars usually have them, and I don't trust the plastic ones anyway as they make the cars drive funky when they start wearing out).

Are there any replacements of decent quality that don't command the outrageous xray prices and still fit? I've used the orange radtecs in the past but they are quite on the tight side, and bind a bit so not a good product... Any direct fit from the cheaper brands a la xpress or else you would recommend?

(also tried ARC and they don't fit at all haha)

Thanks,
Paul
In my experience the X-Ray blades are the best on the market in regards to durability, lifespan and overall quality... The orange X-Ray blades seam to be the best on the market... If your younger drivers are chewing up blades, perhaps maybe a front diff with a 5 million viscosity would help resolve that issue. However adding a diff to the front wouldn't be cost effective right away but will eventually save on blades in the future. Once the younger ones can stay off the boards, then go back to the spool as the spool is optimal. Hope this can be helpful
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Old 04-19-2020, 01:20 PM
  #789  
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cheers Marc - in the absence of any better solution, I do buy the orange blades indeed... putty-filled diffs are even less cost-efficient than buying blades as you noted! I appreciate the input though thanks!
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Old 04-19-2020, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
i am struggling to understand how such an asymetrical design can work without making the car handling asymetric... what I like about the stock design is its very symmetry... This is totally beyond me.
Thought the same thing with the Gizmo. Then we tried the asymmetric design and we have not gone back...

From what we have discovered, we believe that it is more important to get the better flex characteristic of the front of the top deck with this design than with the split front which creates a ton of front flex. The XRAY deck mitigates this with the rear post flex system somewhat, however, testing many different types of top decks, the asymmetric gives the best steering/ grip/ laptime combination over the majority of surfaces we have tested it on across the planet, on different types of carpet, different grip levels and different asphalt. We have tried it on different platforms too, not just the Gizmo.

What I will add is that the bushing/bearing system is not effective on the asymmetric decks as the flex points move away from the bulkheads towards the center of the car.

FWIW, arguably the best TC of the past 2-4 years, (Awesomatix) has not run an asymmetric deck for a majority of the time. Cars no longer drive "tweaked" like back in the day, unless something is majorly wrong with them the design of the top deck is a compromise, but so are the split symmetrical decks.
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Old 04-19-2020, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Thought the same thing with the Gizmo. Then we tried the asymmetric design and we have not gone back...

From what we have discovered, we believe that it is more important to get the better flex characteristic of the front of the top deck with this design than with the split front which creates a ton of front flex. The XRAY deck mitigates this with the rear post flex system somewhat, however, testing many different types of top decks, the asymmetric gives the best steering/ grip/ laptime combination over the majority of surfaces we have tested it on across the planet, on different types of carpet, different grip levels and different asphalt. We have tried it on different platforms too, not just the Gizmo.

What I will add is that the bushing/bearing system is not effective on the asymmetric decks as the flex points move away from the bulkheads towards the center of the car.

FWIW, arguably the best TC of the past 2-4 years, (Awesomatix) has not run an asymmetric deck for a majority of the time. Cars no longer drive "tweaked" like back in the day, unless something is majorly wrong with them the design of the top deck is a compromise, but so are the split symmetrical decks.
Have you tried splitting the rear of the top deck rather than splitting the front? Or attaching a brace to stiffen the split once the belt is installed?
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Old 04-19-2020, 11:54 PM
  #792  
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Here is my custom Chicane topdeck fitted to my T4'20.

Like Christian I'm a big fan of this design, using it on my Arrowmax Medius conversion and on the 20. Yes it looks weird, but it's more responsive, more consistent, and provides more tuning options as you can change the width and length of the cutouts.

I find it works well with the bearing. It was less consistent without the bearing.

It's also much stronger, and much easier to fit and remove.
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Old 04-20-2020, 02:13 AM
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Hi Dale,have you tried a version of that design with a longer split near the front end? More like the standard top deck from the front bulkheads to just in front of the spur gear?

Originally Posted by daleburr View Post

Here is my custom Chicane topdeck fitted to my T4'20.

Like Christian I'm a big fan of this design, using it on my Arrowmax Medius conversion and on the 20. Yes it looks weird, but it's more responsive, more consistent, and provides more tuning options as you can change the width and length of the cutouts.

I find it works well with the bearing. It was less consistent without the bearing.

It's also much stronger, and much easier to fit and remove.
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Old 04-20-2020, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
Have you tried splitting the rear of the top deck rather than splitting the front? Or attaching a brace to stiffen the split once the belt is installed?
Yes.
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Old 04-20-2020, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Hi Dale,have you tried a version of that design with a longer split near the front end? More like the standard top deck from the front bulkheads to just in front of the spur gear?
We have. We have decks that look like a mix of both, but our favorite decks look like Dale's does as well. It provides the best response.

Other benefits from the design (I'll include ones mentioned just to summarize)
-Large amount of gear combinations, like more than even with the older traditional design.
-No issues with motor clearances. - you don't have to space your motor out to get better gear selection and top deck clearance on the can
-No issues with spur gear getting too close or hitting the top deck/ Xray compromises this by having an extremely narrow cross section on the rear part of the deck where each side is 3.1mm. This is not optimal for durability. Guys that don't crash should not have much problem with this, but avg hobbyists or mod on tracks with harder barriers, this can become and issue, which leads us to the next point.
-So much stronger and more durable
-MUCH EASIER to put on and off.

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