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Old 11-22-2010, 11:19 AM   #1456
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Originally Posted by nevb View Post
I can think of a few possible reasons:

- you are overgeared (ie. rollout is too high) and you are overheating the motor. The motor starts getting hotter until it reaches a critical temp and starts slowing. Can be quite dramatic. Rule of thumb is that when you finish and you can't touch the motor for 5 sec, you are overgeared. Bigger or more efficient heatsink may help. If too hot then start dropping teeth from the pinion and test.

- battery going off

- are you using comm drops ? These can give a punch for the first few laps and then "wear off"


My guess would be overgearing. Very common.
I went through each one of these to trouble shoot the problem:

Gearing is set around 5.0, same as the rest of the racers... tried changing, and still resulted in the same problems. I thought of overheating first, which is why I ran to check the temp after running it and it was around 90... strange huh!?! the battery was replaced, same problem. And I do not run comm drops. Is it possible that the engine was gummed up? If so, what's a good way to give it a thorough cleaning.. or should I just toss it away and spend $17 on a new one?
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:22 PM   #1457
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Once you get these motors too hot (180F plus), the magnets ability to hold gauss goes away and there's no way to get that back. Believe me, we've tried.

Always run a heat sink and fan (or on Mini's the metal motor mount and a fan glued to the side of the chssis directly above the motor). A fan alone will drop the temp by 20 degrees or more. I happen to prefer a Novak 5 volt ESC fan run directly off the ESC leads at 7.2 volts because it pushes a lot of air.

If your motor is already slow, break in a new one (see my previous posts on methodology), gear it correctly (5.1-5.4 FDR in sedan, 20 tooth pinion in Mini, 50mm rollout in F1) and enjoy it. Run in the mid-high 4's in sedan or 52mm+ in F1 and you will significantly shorten the life of your silver can.

It's even more critical when you're running a high performance full race silver can like our Red Dot. You can still run a 20 tooth pinion in the Mini, but the F1's go down to a 35mm rollout and the sedans go up to an FDR of 6.25 or higher.

Them's the facts. It's just...science.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:39 PM   #1458
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i used to put motor in brasso and plug in battery for 1 or 2 minutes then put in water for one or two minutes
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Old 11-23-2010, 01:00 AM   #1459
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Run in the mid-high 4's in sedan or 52mm+ in F1 and you will significantly shorten the life of your silver can.
In sedan it all depends on many factors. At my current track I race GT3 at, I am 4.3 ratio and the motor is around 150f. Other places I have raced mid to high 4s with no real ill effects, sometimes coming off at 140.

If you race and setup your car like a BL, don't go below 5 with gearing. Although my irony is my BL and SC gearing are the same now.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:57 AM   #1460
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Well put my twin fan heatsink onto my silver can, and its made a huge difference to running temps. Firstly I could hold my hand on the motor for more then 2-3 seconds, now I can just about leave it on.

Ran a whole 4000mah 25c pack through it and its so much cooler, much happier now

Oh and that was running 19/61 gearing which I believe is stock.

Last edited by RCD211; 11-24-2010 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:02 PM   #1461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Once you get these motors too hot (180F plus), the magnets ability to hold gauss goes away and there's no way to get that back. Believe me, we've tried.

Always run a heat sink and fan (or on Mini's the metal motor mount and a fan glued to the side of the chssis directly above the motor). A fan alone will drop the temp by 20 degrees or more. I happen to prefer a Novak 5 volt ESC fan run directly off the ESC leads at 7.2 volts because it pushes a lot of air.

If your motor is already slow, break in a new one (see my previous posts on methodology), gear it correctly (5.1-5.4 FDR in sedan, 20 tooth pinion in Mini, 50mm rollout in F1) and enjoy it. Run in the mid-high 4's in sedan or 52mm+ in F1 and you will significantly shorten the life of your silver can.

It's even more critical when you're running a high performance full race silver can like our Red Dot. You can still run a 20 tooth pinion in the Mini, but the F1's go down to a 35mm rollout and the sedans go up to an FDR of 6.25 or higher.

Them's the facts. It's just...science.
hey do u still make red dot motor, i am in need for one
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Old 11-30-2010, 05:47 AM   #1462
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Already responded to your internal message, but in case it got cought in your Spam-O-Tronic filter, my direct e-mail addy is [email protected]

For interested parties, our last shipment of Red Dot motors for 2010 will go out in about a week. Most of them are pre-sold on advance orders, but give me a shout at the e-mail above if you want to get one before the new year.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:44 AM   #1463
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Default Break in ?

What is the current up to date break-in procedure for the silver can. Thanks
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:53 AM   #1464
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What is the current up to date break-in procedure for the silver can. Thanks
Just go back a few pages and you'll find this has been posted many, many times. There probably is a best way, but a lot depends on how much work you wanr ro do.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:56 AM   #1465
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This is the best thread ever... by the way... ALL Silver Can motors are slow... the end. Unless you buy snake oil and rub it all over it.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:58 AM   #1466
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This is the best thread ever... by the way... ALL Silver Can motors are slow... the end. Unless you buy snake oil and rub it all over it.
Compared to what???? You sort of have to define your parameters before a statement like that. Compared to a boosted 17.5, yes. Compared to a 21.5, no. Also, in what application????? Mini, TC, F1???? Makes a difference.

I'd like to counter your statement. NOT ALL Silvercans are slow. Snake oil has nothing to do with it.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:28 PM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewashburnaf View Post
This is the best thread ever... by the way... ALL Silver Can motors are slow... the end. Unless you buy snake oil and rub it all over it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Compared to what???? You sort of have to define your parameters before a statement like that. Compared to a boosted 17.5, yes. Compared to a 21.5, no. Also, in what application????? Mini, TC, F1???? Makes a difference.

I'd like to counter your statement. NOT ALL Silvercans are slow. Snake oil has nothing to do with it.
C'mon granpa...you know better!

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Old 12-21-2010, 05:15 PM   #1468
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If anyone is looking for an Indi Dyno motor tester, i have one for sale at this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...receivers.html

Thanks.
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:28 PM   #1469
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Hi, what's the KV of a SC that's been broken in(seated brushes) and oiled? Much as I would like to buy a Red Dot or similar motor the funds are not available. Thanks, Don
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:27 PM   #1470
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OK-maybe I asked the wrong question! Does anyone know what combination of broken in SC at what voltage=25.5 brushless & 7.4 volt lipo? Thanks,Don
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