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Old 07-20-2010, 01:56 PM   #1381
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I have been running Tekin FX Pro.
It is said to be the last serious brushed ESC released that is solely Brushed.
It is supposed to be better than Tekin RS in Brushed mode, if looking at Hobbywing BL they no longer support Brushed mode.
+1, although I run the regular FX, which is more than great for silver can. Just ran one in the 6-hour M-Chassis Enduro on a raging hot day and never saw more than 2-3 LEDs (out of 7) on the onboard temp indicator.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:38 PM   #1382
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+1, although I run the regular FX, which is more than great for silver can. Just ran one in the 6-hour M-Chassis Enduro on a raging hot day and never saw more than 2-3 LEDs (out of 7) on the onboard temp indicator.
Were you one of the teams that did not have to change motors?
I would be surprised if you did after using the Tekin.
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:00 PM   #1383
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How does the G-11 Pro compare to the FX series? I'm currently running Quantum Comp 1 on my M05 and I've just received a G-11 pro. Wondering if I should swap the QC1 to the G-11 or if the FX is loads better, then bypass the G-11 and go look for an FX esc?
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:59 AM   #1384
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Were you one of the teams that did not have to change motors?
I would be surprised if you did after using the Tekin.
We did not have to change motors, and it was a used motor to start with.
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:09 AM   #1385
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How does the G-11 Pro compare to the FX series? I'm currently running Quantum Comp 1 on my M05 and I've just received a G-11 pro. Wondering if I should swap the QC1 to the G-11 or if the FX is loads better, then bypass the G-11 and go look for an FX esc?
I haven't run a G-11, but it seems like a decent little ESC. The G-11 Pro has the same on resistance as the regular FX. I think it has a lot less adjustability. I'm also not sure if the G-11 series has a lipo cutoff.
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:56 PM   #1386
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Tekin FX & LRP QC3 have Lipo cutoff built in. I've used both & they are as good as it gets for silver can.
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:05 AM   #1387
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Video of a Tamiya Lightly Tuned @22k rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSbD1ZkDoAE
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:24 PM   #1388
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Video of a Tamiya Lightly Tuned @22k rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSbD1ZkDoAE
Although at 12v anything will look good.
Wonder how bad it would look at 5v?
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:16 AM   #1389
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Not so sure whether u know how to use a Much More Motor Master. But the 12 volts is the input volts, the motor is running at 7.2 volts.
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:37 PM   #1390
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How does it run on track? I have been able to get some motors to pull big RPM, but they don't have any torque.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:29 PM   #1391
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Video of a Tamiya Lightly Tuned @22k rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSbD1ZkDoAE
That is very nice work. We don't use it here, so have only played with one. But that is good work.
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:58 PM   #1392
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How does it run on track? I have been able to get some motors to pull big RPM, but they don't have any torque.
Usually we used it for TCS/TAC (Tamiya Asia Championship) Mini Class, and i tuned it to have average torque and more rpm.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:41 PM   #1393
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Where is the appropriate spot on a 540J to take a temperature reading? After a 6-minute race with my FF03, I read about 115F on the can, but about 185F on the black endbell. What temps should I be shooting for, measured where?
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:34 PM   #1394
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Where is the appropriate spot on a 540J to take a temperature reading? After a 6-minute race with my FF03, I read about 115F on the can, but about 185F on the black endbell. What temps should I be shooting for, measured where?
Generally the end bell gives better readings. The can readings with the inexpensive temp guns we use are of no value. Another thing you can try is to make a dark area on the can with a marker and build your data base off those readings. I'm don't like temps in excess of 170 measured at the end bell.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:47 PM   #1395
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Generally the end bell gives better readings. The can readings with the inexpensive temp guns we use are of no value. Another thing you can try is to make a dark area on the can with a marker and build your data base off those readings. I don't like temps in excess of 170 measured at the end bell.
Thanks for the info. For brushless motors I use a patch of electrical tape on the can. I'll try that here as well.
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I don't like temps in excess of 170 measured at the end bell.
Whoops!
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