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Old 06-29-2010, 01:31 PM   #1366
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Has anyone experienced the armature getting shoved in? I'm assuming it was caused by a lateral impact (I hit a lot of stuff). It has happened with two different motors, both new (were broken in by water dipping). I've tried to pull the pinion out farther to keep the same surface area on the spur gear, but i'm running out of shaft! There is a lot of lateral play when pulling on the pinion. It springs back, but sits too far toward the inside of the can. Also, i've noticed the magnets have not shifted, so i'm really stumped as to the cause of this. I'm running it in F1 here in Roseville.

Thanks for any advice

-Steve
You got the motor too hot. The comm shifts from the action of the arm as you accelerate and brake. They do this whether you hit anything or not. Unfortunately, it's probably slow and junk now as well. I have seen this many times locally.

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Old 06-29-2010, 04:47 PM   #1367
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You got the motor too hot. The comm shifts from the action of the arm as you accelerate and brake. They do this whether you hit anything or not. Unfortunately, it's probably slow and junk now as well. I have seen this many times locally.

Brushless fo' life
Yep.
It will shift the magnets too.
I would be willing to bet you can push the mags back down towards
the pinion side (and dab some ca in there to hold them). You will at least be able to use the motor this way as it will put the arm back into a neutral spot in the can but it will still be able to "walk" where it wants to resulting in poor performance.

I have six 540s that did this.
That's over $100.00 for "cheap" 540j's.
One of the main reasons I want our locals to go brushless.
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Old 06-29-2010, 07:33 PM   #1368
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I was afraid of that. I know it was pretty hot most of the time, hotter than I usually run these things. Its bizarre, because i'm running 49-50mm rollout. I wonder if something is binding, causing too much drag on the motor.

Thanks for the info.

-Steve
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:03 PM   #1369
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If you do a full race run, check temperature of the motor, that will tell you and us where you are at.
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:19 PM   #1370
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Hey Steve, I think your rollout is fine - that is what I was running. It came off the track at 140 every time in the heat of the day. If you hit a wall just right with those motors they break internally and are done.. That happened to me in the third round when a Fu*#ba bleed over and my car took a hard right into the wall. Motor was garbage in the main after that one hit...
Billy mentioned trying to get the Speed Passion brushless combo going..
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:16 AM   #1371
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Silver cans do that when you slap the wall with the left side of the car. In an F1 it can take a remarkably slight impact to completely mess up the armature, due to the way the motor mounts in the rear pod.

What happens is that the phenolic resin washer at the top of the comm will either shatter or compress, and/or the driveshaft itself will migrate up the stack.

Best way to keep this from happening (except for avoiding the lefty slap) is to place a small spacer (or a stack of motor washers) on the driveshaft between the pinion and the motor snout. Leave just enough room for the pinion/shaft to rotate freely. If you hit the wall you might move the magnets (in itself not necessarily a bad thing) but the shaft will remain in place relative to the rest of the motor.

Keep motor temp under 180 and you will be fine.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:44 AM   #1372
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Hey Steve, I think your rollout is fine - that is what I was running. It came off the track at 140 every time in the heat of the day. If you hit a wall just right with those motors they break internally and are done.. That happened to me in the third round when a Fu*#ba bleed over and my car took a hard right into the wall. Motor was garbage in the main after that one hit...
Billy mentioned trying to get the Speed Passion brushless combo going..
Dammit Ryan! I thought I was just getting faster!
Yea, mine was coming off at i'm sure 170+ (temped at 155 after a cool down lap)! Maybe as a group we need to take a hard look at that brushless combo. I think most of the guys would jump on it.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:51 AM   #1373
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Silver cans do that when you slap the wall with the left side of the car. In an F1 it can take a remarkably slight impact to completely mess up the armature, due to the way the motor mounts in the rear pod.

What happens is that the phenolic resin washer at the top of the comm will either shatter or compress, and/or the driveshaft itself will migrate up the stack.

Best way to keep this from happening (except for avoiding the lefty slap) is to place a small spacer (or a stack of motor washers) on the driveshaft between the pinion and the motor snout. Leave just enough room for the pinion/shaft to rotate freely. If you hit the wall you might move the magnets (in itself not necessarily a bad thing) but the shaft will remain in place relative to the rest of the motor.

Keep motor temp under 180 and you will be fine.
Thanks Doc, i'll try that. I did notice that by sliding the magnets in, it in effect, pulls the armature back to a more centered position. With that being said, can you create more torque or more rpm by moving the mags one way or another?

BTW, i'm still waiting for one of our bigger races to unveil the 'tuned' motor I got from you.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:31 AM   #1374
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Shhhhhhhhh....of course not ....and keep your voice down!! Lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
Thanks Doc, i'll try that. I did notice that by sliding the magnets in, it in effect, pulls the armature back to a more centered position. With that being said, can you create more torque or more rpm by moving the mags one way or another?

BTW, i'm still waiting for one of our bigger races to unveil the 'tuned' motor I got from you.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:32 AM   #1375
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Silver cans do that when you slap the wall with the left side of the car. In an F1 it can take a remarkably slight impact to completely mess up the armature, due to the way the motor mounts in the rear pod.

What happens is that the phenolic resin washer at the top of the comm will either shatter or compress, and/or the driveshaft itself will migrate up the stack.
Interesting.

I pulled the silver can out of F1 earlier today to give her a clean, and noticed there is barely enough motor shaft protruding to make it possible to secure the pinion.

Is this a case of what you're describing?

Funny thing is, The motor goes like a cut cat.
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:39 PM   #1376
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I have seen some F1 drivers hit the wall just right to knock the endbell off.
Don't remember that happening to me but it has happened.

Would agree 170-180 deg as the upper limit of the motors. Although they start to smell funny around this point. I usually get mine to come off around 125 - 140 deg in sedan. Last month at Memphis the outside temp was 103 deg, at that point, I did not care to check motor temp...
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Old 07-04-2010, 05:45 PM   #1377
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I am after a good esc for 540. What esc gives are you guys running and what amp draw are we looking at?
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:11 PM   #1378
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In case anyone's looking for those Much More Motor Mates we just found some in blue, black or silver .

They work great!
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:06 PM   #1379
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I am after a good esc for 540. What esc gives are you guys running and what amp draw are we looking at?
I have been running Tekin FX Pro.
It is said to be the last serious brushed ESC released that is solely Brushed.
It is supposed to be better than Tekin RS in Brushed mode, if looking at Hobbywing BL they no longer support Brushed mode.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:26 PM   #1380
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Lrp quantum 3 here.
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