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Old 02-08-2010, 07:54 AM   #1291
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Originally Posted by PizzaDude View Post
Weak magnets are indeed part of the equation.

However I do not agree with you on the timing part.
Try/test it with a brushed mod motor.
The braking will occur as I stated earlier.
You need to recharge the magnets.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:42 AM   #1292
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Quick question for you silver can folks.... I was going to run one in a F1 car, but I have no idea where to start the gearing. Generally, what FDR do these motors like? The kit manual shows a huge range of "suggested" gearing from 3.0 to 5.0 - that seems a bit large.

Also what is optimal temperature and what is too hot?
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:14 PM   #1293
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Originally Posted by Micro-E View Post
Quick question for you silver can folks.... I was going to run one in a F1 car, but I have no idea where to start the gearing. Generally, what FDR do these motors like? The kit manual shows a huge range of "suggested" gearing from 3.0 to 5.0 - that seems a bit large.

Also what is optimal temperature and what is too hot?
I usually roll them out at 42-46mm on carpet, which is a pretty safe area. You can usually go with a bigger pinion by a couple teeth on asphalt.

You need to figure your rollout, as a gear ratio isn't going to help with foams, and even if you have rubber, you still need to translate the info

Here's 2 charts for f103s with typical tire sizes:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf f10394.pdf (349.4 KB, 241 views)
File Type: pdf f103104.pdf (348.5 KB, 203 views)
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:55 PM   #1294
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Default motor to buy

Does anyone know where I can buy a "tuned" silvercan? I thought there was one or two guys on here that were selling their expertise in a ready to go motor.

If someone has a name, or some one I could PM, that would be great.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:01 PM   #1295
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
I'm not going to argue with what's been said here (well, not much of it anyway) but would echo Bob's suggestions re break-in.

If your 540J has a red pip on the positive contact side of the endbell it's a soft brush motor and may take less than a minute to seat the brushes on a new motor. If that pip is white, it's a hard brush motor and it may take up to 20 minutes to seat the brushes.

Good tip to keep the water clean, because you can actually do quite a bit of damage with dirty water: the graphite from the bushes gets ground into the comm face and you will be hard pressed to get it off of there.

Not a big fan of any polishes. Been there, done that, did a lot of testing, and found that polishes almost invariably have a wax or sealant component. You want good contact, not something between the brush and the comm. They are also seldom water based and unless you are completely submerging your motor in a solvent of some sort (not something I would reccommend), you'll never really get that insidious stuff out of your motor. Yes, it may look clean and shiny, but there's a film between the comm and brush and leftover polish scatered throughout the motor. Since Bob uses a professional grade cleaning tank it's not a problem for him. But for everyone else...

Also not a fan of comm cleaning tools. Clean does not equal flat, and while it may be better than nothing at all, I prefer not to let my motors get dirty in the first place. Clean after each round with comm drops at low voltage folllowed by a few QUICK squirts of motor spray (please, not brake cleaner) and re-lube.

At the end of the day,like others have said, these are inexpensively made. Performance will peak fairly early and deterioriate over time.
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Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
Does anyone know where I can buy a "tuned" silvercan? I thought there was one or two guys on here that were selling their expertise in a ready to go motor.

If someone has a name, or some one I could PM, that would be great.

Thanks,
Steve
contact the guy i quoted above. he has "tuned" silver cans... i.e. Red Dot motors.
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:43 PM   #1296
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contact the guy i quoted above. he has "tuned" silver cans... i.e. Red Dot motors.

Thank you.
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:38 PM   #1297
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Default comm. cleaning?

I have one for you 540J folks; I found a way to polish the comm on a 540J,
What i found was after this was done, I could get up to .5 amps at 3 volts,
Before the comm was clean i spun it up and i could get 1.1-1.3 amps at 3 volts. So my question is why did the amprage drop?
Is this because there was less friction between the comm and the brushes,
Or did i just screw up a somewhat good motor. I have not run this motor
in my mini, That will happen this friday. Your thoughts!

Last edited by nc state; 02-09-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:19 AM   #1298
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I'm not a big fan of using any polish or tools on a silver can comm, and that's why. I know others disagree, but that's my opinion.

Chances are you have either gotten something trapped between the brush and comm (very easy to do), slightly pulled away the brush spring if you stuck a tool in there (even easier to do), or if you used some sort of polish it had a wax component (very common) that is now creating a barrier between the brush and comm. At any rate, at .5 amps it will be a very slow (low torque) motor.

You might try running it at 4 volts or so and spraying the comm HEAVILY with motor spray, or dipping it in water for 10-15 seconds. That might remove the probelm if it's anything but the spring.

Repeat after me: shiny does not equal round.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:38 AM   #1299
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Default comm cleaning?

rccardr; I wont be doing this again. Thanks for the reply, NC State
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:35 PM   #1300
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They're not all the same. Better ESCs will give you better punch/top speed/brakes as well as response speed (kinda like a faster servo). This is mainly due to the number/quality of the fets and driving frequency.
Which would be a good esc to go for??
I can get a new Novak GTX for us$69, or a new LRP IPC v8.1 for $75

Ive been looking on ebay, but the GTX, QC3 etc etc seem to go for high prices
Locally (New Zealand) used GTX & similar sell for wacky high prices
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:49 PM   #1301
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I ma not familiar witht he ECSs you are looking at. If you go on german ebay you'll find S/H LRP QC3 going for penauts every now and then.

If you can't wait, get on the web and start trawling, look at the specs of each ESC you can get easily and compare against a benchmark (the QC3 is a good one, so you can use that). Look for the things you'd like to have (Lipo cutoff, high BEC current, drive frequency, continuous current rating, etc.)

Anyway, put an ad in the wanted sections on this forum as well (it doesn't cost anything) both overseas and in Australia/NZ forum you may get lucky.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:06 AM   #1302
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Which would be a good esc to go for??
I can get a new Novak GTX for us$69, or a new LRP IPC v8.1 for $75

Ive been looking on ebay, but the GTX, QC3 etc etc seem to go for high prices
Locally (New Zealand) used GTX & similar sell for wacky high prices
Gotta used GTX out of my 415 I was about to put on Trade Me here in NZ.
Give me a PM if you want to check it out
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:00 PM   #1303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nc state View Post
I have one for you 540J folks; I found a way to polish the comm on a 540J,
What i found was after this was done, I could get up to .5 amps at 3 volts,
Before the comm was clean i spun it up and i could get 1.1-1.3 amps at 3 volts. So my question is why did the amprage drop?
Is this because there was less friction between the comm and the brushes,
Or did i just screw up a somewhat good motor. I have not run this motor
in my mini, That will happen this friday. Your thoughts!
I have used polishes before but you really need to clean out the motor well before attempting to run it. If you leave the polish in the motor too long it can dry out forming a barrier as Doc eluded to which is hard to remove. It even can effect the wires creating a short. Not something I would want to do at the track. Motor spray can be a good cleaner but you risk removing some of the natural lubricants that the brushes might have.
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:08 PM   #1304
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Originally Posted by nc state View Post
I have one for you 540J folks; I found a way to polish the comm on a 540J,
What i found was after this was done, I could get up to .5 amps at 3 volts,
Before the comm was clean i spun it up and i could get 1.1-1.3 amps at 3 volts. So my question is why did the amprage drop?
Is this because there was less friction between the comm and the brushes,
Or did i just screw up a somewhat good motor. I have not run this motor
in my mini, That will happen this friday. Your thoughts!
Just curious, but did polishing or cleaning involve any manipulation of the brushes?? Did you lift the brushes off the comm at any time????
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:03 PM   #1305
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Default 540J

Granpa, Yes the brushes were moved away from the comm.
I used a piece of plastic spru from a model kit. The spacinig was just right
to insert the spru into the end bell and move the brushes. Once that was
done i used 4000grit sand paper. The comm came out great, but no
amp draw.
NC State
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