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Old 02-04-2010, 10:53 AM   #1276
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Forgot. To clean the motor be sure to polish all the black crud off the comm. A favorite method around here is to get an old needle tipped oil bottle and use that to directly drop some metal polish like Brasso directly on the comm. Spin the motor over by hand then clean out with motor spray. Spray and spin the motor several times to make sure all the polish is out. Do not spin the motor over under power unless you have a good ultrasonic cleaner.

Just about any metal polish will do, but what seems to be the most common is Brasso. I've used Mrs. Wright's and am now using Mother's Chrome Polish. they all seem to work, but I'd stick to these three cause they won't clog the needle on your oil bottle.

I have seen motors pick up as much as a thousand rpms just by polishing the comm. The usual is 2-500 rpm on a well maintained motor.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:00 AM   #1277
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The problem with that method is that you only polish where the brushes touch, so the ridges on the sides keep going up. I use the gizmo I made with a piece of comm polishing stick (the little green thingie, the square side) cut to the entire length of the comm and superglued to a piece of metal bent at 90 degrees I can stick in through the inspection holes. That polishes the entire length nice and flat. Clean, lube etc, etc.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:17 AM   #1278
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I'm not going to argue with what's been said here (well, not much of it anyway) but would echo Bob's suggestions re break-in.

If your 540J has a red pip on the positive contact side of the endbell it's a soft brush motor and may take less than a minute to seat the brushes on a new motor. If that pip is white, it's a hard brush motor and it may take up to 20 minutes to seat the brushes.

Good tip to keep the water clean, because you can actually do quite a bit of damage with dirty water: the graphite from the bushes gets ground into the comm face and you will be hard pressed to get it off of there.

Not a big fan of any polishes. Been there, done that, did a lot of testing, and found that polishes almost invariably have a wax or sealant component. You want good contact, not something between the brush and the comm. They are also seldom water based and unless you are completely submerging your motor in a solvent of some sort (not something I would reccommend), you'll never really get that insidious stuff out of your motor. Yes, it may look clean and shiny, but there's a film between the comm and brush and leftover polish scatered throughout the motor. Since Bob uses a professional grade cleaning tank it's not a problem for him. But for everyone else...

Also not a fan of comm cleaning tools. Clean does not equal flat, and while it may be better than nothing at all, I prefer not to let my motors get dirty in the first place. Clean after each round with comm drops at low voltage folllowed by a few QUICK squirts of motor spray (please, not brake cleaner) and re-lube.

At the end of the day,like others have said, these are inexpensively made. Performance will peak fairly early and deterioriate over time.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:28 AM   #1279
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Motor spray is industrial grade isopropylic alcohol. That guarantees there is no residue (ethyl alcohol is a good alternative but can not be sold industrial grade for obvious reasons so it's usually denaturated or mixed). Good brake parts cleaner like LiquiMoly is exactly the same thing. So is electronic cleaning fluid sold in electronic parts shops.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:14 PM   #1280
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Avoid too much oil on the end bushing which can get onto your comm.
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:19 AM   #1281
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Default esc with better brakes??

Hi there. From a quick search it seems escs are all the same performance wise (with silvercans)

Is there an esc with better braking??
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:53 AM   #1282
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They're not all the same. Better ESCs will give you better punch/top speed/brakes as well as response speed (kinda like a faster servo). This is mainly due to the number/quality of the fets and driving frequency.
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:53 AM   #1283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi there. From a quick search it seems escs are all the same performance wise (with silvercans)

Is there an esc with better braking??
You probably won't feel much difference if any.
Because the silver cans have zero timing.
Motors with timing will have way more braking power.

So I doubt if you'll feel more braking even with another esc.
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:56 AM   #1284
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hi all! i just want to ask if the tekin RS ESC can boost this motor?
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:12 AM   #1285
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only if it's sensored and brushless
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:21 AM   #1286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaDude View Post
You probably won't feel much difference if any.
Because the silver cans have zero timing.
Motors with timing will have way more braking power.

So I doubt if you'll feel more braking even with another esc.
I thought stock timing was fixed at 23 or 24 degrees?
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Old 02-05-2010, 03:16 AM   #1287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaDude View Post
You probably won't feel much difference if any.
Because the silver cans have zero timing.
Motors with timing will have way more braking power.

So I doubt if you'll feel more braking even with another esc.
That's not the reason brakes are less efficient with silvercans. The main reason is they have weaker magnets. Less timing should actually help because braking pulses are applied at a point where the rotor is more efficient in braking than an advanced timing motor. Very high gearing again takes some of the braking power away but that is not a worry if you're racing a mini with its limited gearing option.
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:51 AM   #1288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradient View Post
I thought stock timing was fixed at 23 or 24 degrees?
Yes it is on stock motors.

But the Johnson/Mabuchi's are industrial motors designed to have little to no wear and work well in both directions. So zero degrees works best.
F.i. kids electrical trikes, car windows that kinda thing.
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:53 AM   #1289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
That's not the reason brakes are less efficient with silvercans. The main reason is they have weaker magnets. Less timing should actually help because braking pulses are applied at a point where the rotor is more efficient in braking than an advanced timing motor. Very high gearing again takes some of the braking power away but that is not a worry if you're racing a mini with its limited gearing option.
Weak magnets are indeed part of the equation.

However I do not agree with you on the timing part.
Try/test it with a brushed mod motor.
The braking will occur as I stated earlier.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:54 PM   #1290
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The best torque is at 0 degrees, you just don't get a bunch of rpm.
The more RPM thru timing = less torque.

So you either run a bigger pinion or smaller depending on the timing.
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