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Old 03-07-2009, 02:29 PM   #1231
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How are you guys maintaining the silver cans. I have one in a 1/12 scale and just want to maintain it properly. The motor seems pretty fast and I want to keep it that way.
Heat is an issue. If you have a temp gun that is very handy in seeing if you are over/under geared. Usually anything above 180-200 deg is too hot, around 160 deg is a good place to be. Also what fleet said about keeping it oiled and clean.
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Old 05-16-2009, 06:49 PM   #1232
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so how does using fancy capacitors and/or shotcky diods play into the performance of these motors??

I notice the fastest guys are soldering those multi-shotcky diodes and way over sized capacitors to either their motors or the escs
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:40 PM   #1233
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From what I understand, the diodes protect a forward/brake esc from back emf.
The caps only store a charge when you back off and discharge when you apply throttle again.
But really, why would you back off with a 540 ? That only slows you down.
At my local track, its W.O.T for 90% of the time or more.
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:12 PM   #1234
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Fleetmaster is pretty close. Large capacitors on esc store a bit of charge that is used to top up the battery supply when accelerating hard and the battery is momentarily depleted. As one will notice this is not very likely with an esc incapable of delivering high enough currents to affect the battery output.

The Schottky diode is a drain for the reverse emf of your motor when braking especially but generally for improving the overall motor performance. The reason they use more Schottkies is because they can't find a big one that'll do the job (they do exist) but has the added advantage of lower capacitive impedance at higher frequencies (generated at higher motor rpm). Large Schottky diodes come in a TO capsule which is more difficult to solder to the motor too, because they look like a power transistor with three terminals that need to be paired correctly rather than a little cylinder with two wires sticking out.

If nobody told you this, don't ever use a Schottky with a reversible speedy because you will fry it instantly.

Up to you. Make sure you have the little 100nF capacitors on the motor too.
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Old 05-20-2009, 02:09 AM   #1235
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so i guess there will be some performance increase with the silver cans but not much.

Can the shotckies and the capacitors be used at the same time?
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Old 05-20-2009, 02:26 AM   #1236
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Can the shotckies and the capacitors be used at the same time?
Yes
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:32 AM   #1237
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Yes, you can.

However, in our testing of multiple speed controls using silver can motors we found no lap time improvement using any combination of additional/larger capacity diodes and caps beyond that required by the manufacturer.

Best way to get your motor to go faster is to use a faster motor.
Best way to reduce lap times is to drive better and use an efficient suspension setup that carries speed through the turns.

Jeff does make an excellent point about the temp gun- we've found that heat range is the most efficient way to determine gearing and setup efficiency.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:25 AM   #1238
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Where does everyone check the temps? Most temp guns will not give a good reading on the can itself.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:28 AM   #1239
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I've always temped at the comm.

At the Omaha TCS this last weekend...all of the 13,500 rpm limit motors of ours never temped over 140 in mini...about 155-160 in GT3.
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Where does everyone check the temps? Most temp guns will not give a good reading on the can itself.
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:35 PM   #1240
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Where does everyone check the temps? Most temp guns will not give a good reading on the can itself.
I check mine on the rear end bell
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:43 PM   #1241
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Originally Posted by A-Ko View Post
Heat is an issue. If you have a temp gun that is very handy in seeing if you are over/under geared. Usually anything above 180-200 deg is too hot, around 160 deg is a good place to be. Also what fleet said about keeping it oiled and clean.
Are you measuring temps on the can/endplate or on the armature?
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:17 PM   #1242
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Measure motor temp at the comm
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:54 PM   #1243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hprt View Post
Are you measuring temps on the can/endplate or on the armature?
The com would be nice but usually the can could be a fair alternative.
With my fans and heatsinks usually I just do the can, although lately there has not been a need.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:33 PM   #1244
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when running your motor in with a charger with a motor feature, mine only displays an amperage number, which way is better higher reading or a lower reading
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:35 PM   #1245
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when running your motor in with a charger with a motor feature, mine only displays an amperage number, which way is better higher reading or a lower reading
"Usually" a higher number indicates more power. Now if there is binding in a motor or even new bushings that can indicate a higher amp draw number.
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