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Old 02-13-2009, 10:52 AM   #1216
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OK guys, last call on Red Dots for about the next two months.

We're finishing the production run now and will be shipping over the weekend and next week, but there will be no more Red Dots available after that until at least mid-April. Most of this run has already been pre-sold and prepaid, but there are still a few left.

So if you want one of these babies for the TCS race in Frederick, MD on March 15th, for the Trackside TCS on March 28th-29th, or for the start of your club racing season, let me know right away at [email protected].

Thanks

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Old 02-13-2009, 11:01 AM   #1217
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I'll give it a try. The shop has a couple motors in stock now.
Huge difference in my F103RM. New motor, geared 104/22. It just flies. I don't think I'm even hitting top speed in the straight and need to go smaller yet on the pinion so I can actually hit top end.

FYI, I did the water dip break in and oiled the bushings with the new motor. That was enough. Thanks to Doc and Granpa for the tips and to Core Creations for pointing out that I probably did the motor in.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:33 PM   #1218
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Depends on what you did to it. In any case, fast motors draw more current. What needs to be done is to increase the FDR numerically. This will let the motor wind up so that it's in it's power band and not lugging. You may have it geared so that it's just being stalled out.
I'm not sure I understand this. I've gone through several 540J's in my day and it always seemed to me that you either got lucky or not. I break them in, but do not have a dyno to test the results. I gear my F103 the same as I always have with a silver can, and the motors either work well or are very slow. There's not much of a middle ground. Are you saying that the slow ones may perform better at a higher FDR (numerically) ? For example, if I'm running 94/27, try 94/24 ? This seems the opposite of what I'm used to. Your insight is appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:09 AM   #1219
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I'm not sure I understand this. I've gone through several 540J's in my day and it always seemed to me that you either got lucky or not. I break them in, but do not have a dyno to test the results. I gear my F103 the same as I always have with a silver can, and the motors either work well or are very slow. There's not much of a middle ground. Are you saying that the slow ones may perform better at a higher FDR (numerically) ? For example, if I'm running 94/27, try 94/24 ? This seems the opposite of what I'm used to. Your insight is appreciated. Thanks.
It all goes back to what I said first. It depends really on what "tune up" was done to it. If you are talking about about a box stock silver can, you are, for the most part, absolutely correct. The latest versions will turn about [email protected] 5v., but I've had some turn closer to 13k ( not very many) and others not get to 12k. It's pretty much the luck of the draw.

However, with that being said, there are motor wizards out there whose motors will run at 16k plus at 5v. and probably more and in some cases much more. If you looked at the power curves of a stock and tuned silver can, the rpms where each motor hit their peak power, might be 3k apart. If you geared both motors the same, it's likely that the tuned silver can never gets to it's peak. Another point is that if you looked at the rpm to time curves, you'd see that the two curves would almost lay on top of each other, until the stock motor peaked out and then the tuned motor line would extend up from that. What happens here is that is that the high rpm motor just lugs and gets hot and is not happy.

For a box stock motor, I'd go up a tooth on the pinion, not down. It's the reverse of the scenario for a tuned motor. It also could be a dud motor too.
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:36 PM   #1220
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Thank you Granpa, this was very helpful .....
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Old 03-04-2009, 04:10 PM   #1221
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OK, not really a silver can question .... but I think it still applies. It's been so long since I messed with brushed motors, please forgive my noob-ness. I've noticed with my black can motors, not so much with the silvers, that one of the brushes wears flat with the comm whereas the other retains the 2 or 3 points of contact. As I recall, you want the brushes to seat flat, right ? If so, any ideas why this may be happening ? I suppose if I could change the springs out it could fix the issue but alas this is not an option. Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:22 PM   #1222
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Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
OK, not really a silver can question .... but I think it still applies. It's been so long since I messed with brushed motors, please forgive my noob-ness. I've noticed with my black can motors, not so much with the silvers, that one of the brushes wears flat with the comm whereas the other retains the 2 or 3 points of contact. As I recall, you want the brushes to seat flat, right ? If so, any ideas why this may be happening ? I suppose if I could change the springs out it could fix the issue but alas this is not an option. Thanks.
might depend on how used the motor is?
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:33 PM   #1223
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The positive brush wears out first, true. That's the way it is. Most rebuildable motors run different spring rates on the brushes or brushes of different hardness to compensate for this. Spring tension on the black cans can be altered but you need to know what you're doing. This takes a lot of experimental work and the outcome is not worth the effort in my view.

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Old 03-04-2009, 09:51 PM   #1224
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The positive brush wears out first, true. That's the way it is. Most rebuildable motors run different spring rates on the brushes to compensate for this. Spring tension on the black cans can be altered but you need to know what you're doing. This takes a lot of experimental work and the outcome is not worth the effort in my view.
This is correct, but IMO it's not anything to be overly concerned about. I have limited experience with Black cans, but the ones I've run, seem to have their best performance when the brushes are partially seated. This may be due to their being very sensitive to being overheated and have nothing to do with whether the brushes are seated or not. They just don't seem to hold their peak performance that long.

Some of the "old" black cans are the exception. The brush material was different and the magnet material may have been also. Don't know cause I dont have a gauss meter to check.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:02 PM   #1225
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That's okay, you can use a good compass to qualitatively "feel" the magnets. A good compass will pick up a signal at a certain distance. The stronger the magnet, the further away it will be felt.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:33 PM   #1226
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How are you guys maintaining the silver cans. I have one in a 1/12 scale and just want to maintain it properly. The motor seems pretty fast and I want to keep it that way.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:51 AM   #1227
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How are you guys maintaining the silver cans. I have one in a 1/12 scale and just want to maintain it properly. The motor seems pretty fast and I want to keep it that way.
Don't overheat it. Keep it well cleaned and oiled. Drive it nice and smoothly.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:57 AM   #1228
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Well this is what i did with my silver can

water and cif in a bowl

motor in the water before connecting a 6v power supply

left it for 40 minuites

turn the power off

remove motor

drain water from it

spray with a lot of WD40

let it dry out

run the arse out of it , my motor was the fastest last year by about 5KPH down the back straight
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:25 AM   #1229
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Most of my silver cans could only handle about 30-60 seconds of water dipping. 40 minutes would have left me with scrap metal.

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Old 03-07-2009, 10:41 AM   #1230
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oooh ok

i was lucky i think

still using the motor now (racing tommorrow with it in my M-03

this is a link for motor dipping

http://www.rcfreaksplayground.com/ti...tuning-t28.htm
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