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Old 12-17-2008, 03:59 PM   #1201
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I thought we used to run the F103 with more in the 20-22ish /104 range with a fast silver can...maybe 22-24 range for a regular silver can.
Maybe I just have a dud motor. I'm running 104/22 and tried 104/20 thinking I would keep it cool and still have some power and speed. I bet I cooked it running the stock gearing for a couple weeks.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:25 PM   #1202
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If the magnets cooked or the comm then it's garbage. Start with a new motor and a lower gearing.
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:23 PM   #1203
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If the magnets cooked or the comm then it's garbage. Start with a new motor and a lower gearing.
I'll give it a try. The shop has a couple motors in stock now.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:43 PM   #1204
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Anybody have any tips on the SH variant of silvercan?
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:48 PM   #1205
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throw it in the bin and get a J motor.
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:02 PM   #1206
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sorry, i couldn't help that one.

treat it the same as a J- break it in nice and slow,keep it clean,lube the bushes well.I also start off with a lower rollout and work my way up from there,once badly overheated,they are stuffed.
By keeping the motor in a nice and balanced load range,you will not only have decent straight line speed,but corner punch aswell.
I sometimes get monstered on the straights,but pull a bigger lead in the tighter turns.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:49 PM   #1207
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throw it in the bin and get a J motor.
I wish I could, but it's a handout motor event and the only motor you get is a SH. Although this could be a good thing, evening the competition up more.
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:21 PM   #1208
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I dont believe those numbers personally,

I recon its either been opened or the foil thingy on the end of the motor that goes into the checker has been tapered with.

Until i see a silver can do those numbers on my own checker & it clearly doesnt look opened in person, then i dont belive till then......


my 2 cents,

I hope No one has to cry about this post
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Old 01-17-2009, 01:01 PM   #1209
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For anyone who's interested, the next batch of Red Dot silver can motors is shipping the end of January. The last several batches have all been sold out prepaid in advance, so if you want one it would be a good idea to get in line NOW before they are gone.

Our latest F1 motors are real screamers: track testing indicates that lap times with a Red Dot F1 are very comparable to the faster rubber sedan and 12th scale classes.

For a Mini, you just can't beat a Red Dot: we TQ'd and won several TCS events in the USA last year as well as many club races and several invitational events around the world. We'd especially like to thank the guys in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa for their support in the Mini class.

Our GT3 motors also do quite well in silver can sedan classes. The latest ones do best with an FDR in the high 5's or low 6's, which lets them rev & doesn't get them as hot.

We've been astounded at the reaction to our 15K line of Red Dots- these are very popular among race directors for handout series- especially spec classes with fixed gearing- as well as with club racers who don't want (or need) quite as much rip as a full race motor...plus they also last longer.

Motors are still only $45US each plus shipping ($6 within the USA for one motor, $10 for two or more; international shipping is quoted on request). Best way to pay is through PayPal- my id is [email protected] the same as my e-mail address.

Thanks!
Doc
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:42 PM   #1210
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:56 PM   #1211
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Motor break in updates! Just thought I'd share a few things with you guys.

Motor 1, Mabuchi. Broke this one in with a quick water dip, and then ran the hell out of it. Great torque, good top end, a bit noisy. Weak-ish magnets.

Motor 2, Johnson. This one was water dipped, briefly and the bushings were broken in with Brasso. I then ran it for 6 hours at 1.5v. 3 hours forward, 3 hours reverse. VERY quiet motor, a bit pokey at low voltage, but spins up very well at full voltage. Strong magnets.

Motor 3, Johnson. Water dipped, and run. It's a dog. Enough said.

So, based on motors 1 and 3, it does seem there's a bit of hit or miss involved. Yes, it's a small sample for reference purposes, but it does show the range of results one could expect.

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Old 02-03-2009, 03:17 AM   #1212
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I have just put my 540 out for its first run since I finished building it and although it is fast, the motor get incredibly hot. What can I do to reduce the heat?
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:46 AM   #1213
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I have just put my 540 out for its first run since I finished building it and although it is fast, the motor get incredibly hot. What can I do to reduce the heat?

Depends on what you did to it. In any case, fast motors draw more current. What needs to be done is to increase the FDR numerically. This will let the motor wind up so that it's in it's power band and not lugging. You may have it geared so that it's just being stalled out.
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:00 PM   #1214
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I was lucky enough to score some four hole motors. Some pretty well used and some run but with the brushes barely seated. I noticed that the brushes on these motors seat differently than on a newer 2 hole johnson. Or am I seeing things? Example- When breaking in a 2 hole motor the leading edge fo the brush seats first and the trailing edge seats last. I started running in a 4 hole and the trailing edge sat first and there is still a gap under the leading edge of the brush.
I figure that this would account for the higher rev and less torque of a 4 hole(timming advance).That and the brush is physicaly smaller than a 2 hole(less drag)
Now, my questions are-
Am I on the right track?
Do I continue seating the brushes
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:39 PM   #1215
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For anyone who's interested, the next batch of Red Dot silver can motors is shipping the week of February 16th. This will be the last batch until the end of April. The last several production runs have all sold out prepaid in advance, so if you want one it would be a good idea to let me know NOW before they are all gone.

Motors are still only $45US each plus shipping ($6 within the USA for one motor, $10 for two or more; international shipping is quoted on request). Best way to pay is through PayPal- my id is [email protected] the same as my e-mail address. Feel free to ask any questions via e-mail.

Thanks!
Doc
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