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Old 08-25-2006, 09:19 AM   #91
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Howzit guys,

I have been a 540 GT racer for few years at club&national level, here is my way to supe-up your Johanson 540 2-vent motor.
* Make sure to get your 'of the shelve' motor specs before your start
* Get a container with lukewarm-to-hot soapy (sunlight liquid) water
* Run the motor submerged at 2v for about 30mins
* Then take brasso in a old oil bottle (or surringe) and squirt the comm & bushings continiously for about another 30mins
* Submerge the motor again to cleanout all the ikky black stuff
* Blow dry the motor with air (compressor/canned). Beware of canned motor cleaner of these motor's bushings, as I they dryout easy and cause dragg
* Oil bushings with good (any brand) thin oil
* You can use comm-drops, but in my opinion is a 'nice2have' only
Spec your motor again after this process, take on the track and gear high. In my Pro4, I rolled to +-50mm depending of track, using a 60T spur.

Let me know if this is working for you.

Cheers,
Vance.
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:48 AM   #92
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Howzit guys,

Just a bit more detail following on my previous message:

* Make sure to get your 'of the shelve' motor specs before your start
* Get a container with lukewarm-to-hot soapy (sunlight liquid) water to soften the brushes
* Run the motor submerged at 2v for about 30mins
* Stuff rubbing-compound in-between the comm+brushes, run motor at 2v. Repeat this until the brushes are fully seated. This should not take longer than 30mins
* Then take brasso in an old oil bottle (or syringe) and squirt the comm & bushings continuously for about another 30mins
* Submerge the motor again to cleanout all the icky black stuff again
* Change icky water for clean luke-to-hot water and submerge motor again to clean properly.
* Blow dry the motor with air (compressor/canned). Beware of canned motor cleaner of these motor's bushings, as I they dry out easy and cause drag
* Oil bushings with good (any brand) thin oil
* You can use comm-drops, but in my opinion is a 'nice2have' only
Spec your motor again after this process; take on the track and gear high. In my Pro4, I rolled to +-50mm depending of track, using a 60T spur.
If youíre lucky to have a dyno, you'll notice huge increase in torque after the above exercise and maybe a bit more rpm's. As mentioned before in this tread, driving style is key and keeping your car's momentum continuous is vital.
Additionally, I've cutout a glove for the motor out of a chamois (sheep skin) cloth, with the vents open. Before hitting the track, I soak the glove in water and then use canned intro-freeze to ice up the motor.
These days, I see the guys use a pc-peltier-cooler contraption...I haven't used it myself as yet.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Vance
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Old 08-26-2006, 05:32 PM   #93
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I think you may have missed some valuable points:

Running a motor in to seat the brushes is only worth doing if you have enough brush tension to do so. I have had motors which have got slower because running them in significantly reduces the brush tension.

What you need to do when you go to the shop is to look at each motor and find one where the brushes seem to be forced out around the comm rather than into it and the brushes should be flat and even. If you brushes are seemingly angled towards the comm already chances are that it already has not got enough tension so water dipping will only make it worse.

Im sorry if this is a little confusing, its kinda hard to explain!
My two fastest motors which have been doing a hell of a lot of winning have been water dipped.

Also my car seems faster at the start of the race using comm drops (tribo). Its not too far away from a 27T Stock for the first lap

Mike
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:18 PM   #94
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so you want to make a silver can go hay. 1 get the magnets zapped. 2 run a com wick. 3 if you dont want it leagle then lift tabs and remove arm then take one or two turns of each segment and solder back, then they kick ass
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Old 08-27-2006, 01:59 AM   #95
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we are talking without tampering or modifying it eg keeping the motor legal of course.

Mike
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Old 08-28-2006, 01:44 AM   #96
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I tq'd and won the final last club meet and broke the 5 min and 8 min finals records by 4 secs in an untouched grey can but they tried to disqualify me cause i had polished the can, but nowhere can i found i cant do this. I have since sandblasted the can back to grey but thoughts ? This motor was run in in reverse on my comm lathe on 5.4v and has had a hiding for 1 season prev
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Old 08-28-2006, 11:44 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ixlr8nz
we are talking without tampering or modifying it eg keeping the motor legal of course.

Mike
Thought the class was suppose to be about having equel power....
How can you have equel power after a few begin tuning legal like ?

Its seem`s to go against the whole idea of racing "silver can" if you can go faster than the other motor`s..
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Old 08-29-2006, 03:34 AM   #98
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Howzit guys (maybe girls!?!?),

Wild Cherry, I understand you point of view. The main reason that got me dabbling in 'tuning' silver can motors, was when I received a total dud handout motor a nats event and where told that thatís just the way it is. So where is fun in that? So like any good racer, I tried to race even better, driving better lines and all that. You know what, in stock you can't reply on battery dumping/motor-or-brushes packing up/etc...
To be honest the more competitive you are, the more you are likely to go the extra mile in prepping your car and then motor.
To me, it's all part of 'going the extra mile'. Not just, building a chassis, sticking a motor in and race.
Just my opinion.

Cheers,
Vance.
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Old 08-29-2006, 04:16 AM   #99
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howzit Vance, where about in SA are you? i am from Durban?
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:25 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vance
Howzit guys (maybe girls!?!?),

Wild Cherry, I understand you point of view. The main reason that got me dabbling in 'tuning' silver can motors, was when I received a total dud handout motor a nats event and where told that thatís just the way it is. So where is fun in that? So like any good racer, I tried to race even better, driving better lines and all that. You know what, in stock you can't reply on battery dumping/motor-or-brushes packing up/etc...
To be honest the more competitive you are, the more you are likely to go the extra mile in prepping your car and then motor.
To me, it's all part of 'going the extra mile'. Not just, building a chassis, sticking a motor in and race.
Just my opinion.

Cheers,
Vance.
after many years of using silver cans, the biggest single variable with them is magnets.about 1 in ten are pretty good,have tried all the running in tricks ,none of wich make more than a few percent difference.armature balance is also pot luck
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:57 AM   #101
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Brush tension also plays a big part. As well as zapping the magnets, reverse then forward zapping produces about 5000rpm extra. you would need to gear down to take advantage of it though.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:43 AM   #102
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Hey RocketRacer,

Nice too see another SA racer on this site! I'm in Jo'burg, send me a PM to chat further and not glogup this thread.

Cheers,
Vance.
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:43 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderScrap
Brush tension also plays a big part. As well as zapping the magnets, reverse then forward zapping produces about 5000rpm extra. you would need to gear down to take advantage of it though.
if you gain rpm from zapping then you have weakened the magnets. pretty tricky to change brush tension on asilver can.
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:44 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderScrap
Brush tension also plays a big part. As well as zapping the magnets, reverse then forward zapping produces about 5000rpm extra. you would need to gear down to take advantage of it though.
if you gain rpm from zapping then you have weakened the magnets. pretty tricky to change brush tension on a silver can.
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:07 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lignum vitae
pretty tricky to change brush tension on a silver can.
"Pretty tricky"? So are you saying it's possible to change the brush tension?
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