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Old 01-10-2008, 06:45 AM   #841
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Default Hey guys

Hey Guys, I do have to admit for begginners that motors can seem complex. I remember when a friend and myself first hardwired a motor. It felt like we were doing brainsurgury. These pages are helpful but take it a bit of humor. I first started checking out the thread for tips but ya soon realize. That a bunch of these guys race together and like everyone, we all love bustin chops. For people who are not that knowledgable about motors 9 out of 10 times you will find someone helpful at the track. All motors have things in common and tips you learn from one style of racing. You find works on different motors. When Granpa mentioned dropping the motor I smacked myself. It was a tip I use for rebuildable stock motors. If you are interested in motors. Pick up some sort of small dyno like a Trinity Motor Monster will it will show you RPM and such. This way as you play you can see the changes in the motor an not have to guess. Not to get off track but if you do race stock motors. Go on Ebay and grab "Big Jim's Black Motor Book". Even though it is a little outdated, it is a great starting point.

Happy Racing All!!!
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Old 01-10-2008, 08:26 AM   #842
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While on the sbject of tapping motors... I've seen two motors bind up after a hard wreck in a M-03 caused the magnets to move. We figured out it was the magnets causing the binding, because after removing the motors & investigating, we found that tapping the motor on a table would cause the magnets to shift up & down after the impact. The binding would stop if the magnets were shifted back into the optimal position... but the magnets could easily be knocked back out & binding returned.
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Old 01-10-2008, 04:41 PM   #843
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What is the difference between these 2 motors from Tamiya: 7435043 and 7435079?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGN28&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPML4&P=7

Both look like 540 silver cans, but one is $16.50 and the other is $10.50
Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:29 PM   #844
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Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
What is the difference between these 2 motors from Tamiya: 7435043 and 7435079?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGN28&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPML4&P=7

Both look like 540 silver cans, but one is $16.50 and the other is $10.50
Thanks.
shiny one is just a "mabuchi" (i.e. slower).. the other one is a "J" (johnson, more RPM) motor which has more RPM. you want the "J"...
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Old 01-10-2008, 08:08 PM   #845
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Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
What is the difference between these 2 motors from Tamiya: 7435043 and 7435079?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGN28&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPML4&P=7

Both look like 540 silver cans, but one is $16.50 and the other is $10.50
Thanks.
I'll defer to my more learned collegues, but you want the shiny one. Tower may be in error on their info on the motors. The grey one is what tamiya is putting in the newer kits and they are pretty much duds. Doc, Devin, or Brandon may have more insight into the differences.
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Old 01-11-2008, 05:27 AM   #846
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Last two posts are spot on. You can make the grey cans faster, but the J motor is a better starting point and they seem to last longer as well.
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Old 01-11-2008, 02:51 PM   #847
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Default with motor

hi guys, just a quick question, just brought a durga buggy for the wife, the kit motor come shiny silver can with yellow/ green wires,, and seems bloody quick(heaps quicker then my xx4 with a johnson) so what turn is it? from memory it has tamiya stamped on it and not johnson/mabushi etc.. is it a 23 turn or still 27turn,,
thanks
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Old 01-11-2008, 03:48 PM   #848
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should still be 27t. the 23t ones are the black can ones.
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Old 01-11-2008, 05:05 PM   #849
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I've been rotating through a lot of different Tamiya kits lately, and have come across no less than 4 different silver can motors. There's the standard silver Johnson 540J motor, the stickered Mabuchi 540 with back endbell, the dull gray Mabuchi with a silver endbell, and the dull gray motor with the white plastic-looking wire retainers near the comm.

I would say the performance I've seen between them is about the same order as I listed them, at least "stock".

Now if I could just get ONE to run worth a darn!
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Old 01-12-2008, 01:00 AM   #850
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Old 01-16-2008, 06:15 PM   #851
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What's everyone using to polish the comms? I've been using brasso, but don't like the filmy residue it leaves behind. Chrome polish is even worse.
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:16 PM   #852
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What's everyone using to polish the comms? I've been using brasso, but don't like the filmy residue it leaves behind. Chrome polish is even worse.
try a liquid metal polish dab it onto the comm and then clean it like a trophy so that it will shine at its best! Then spray with water or motor spray then pressurized air.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:30 AM   #853
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What's everyone using to polish the comms? I've been using brasso, but don't like the filmy residue it leaves behind. Chrome polish is even worse.
Me too
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:51 AM   #854
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Default 540 max temp

Hi all
Does anyone know what the max temp would be to run a 540 at.

Regards
Gary
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:52 PM   #855
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
In case you missed my point, I'll let you know what I've been playing with lately, which what effect comm drops may have. Base line rpm on this motor was 18,640. Comm had been cleaned with Brasso. Next the comm was polished with a chrome cleaner which can be found in most well stocked auto parts stores like Pep Boys. Rpm 18,900. Used Tribo and rpm dropped to 18360, but amp draw went up. Cleaned and polished and used a different comm drop. Rpm went down slightly and amp draw went up again. Sprayed motor out with motor spray, reoiled, but did not polish or clean. Rpm was 18,900. Ran motor for 5 min. at 7.2 volts. Rpm was 19,260. Waiting for the motor to cool so we can test it again. Suspect that the extra rpm was due to the motor being warm. So what does this all mean????
1. I've got more time than brains.
2. I have no idea.
3. Is this worth trying at the next race? You bet. 600+ rpm in just how you prep to race is well worth it.
Granpa,
Do you mind telling what you are using to get your rpm and amp draw? Cause I have been working hard on trying to get 600 extra out of mine. Just wondering what brand or type of dyno you are using.

Thanks in advance, Sid
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