rough512

iTrader: (12)

Aha!!!!! This post seems to dovetail with Granpa's post nicely. So now we know one of the secrets.

I wish I can tap my own back

Granpa

Aahh, but the secret is where you tap it and how hard. Reminds me of the story of the plumber and the pipe. Sorry, I forgot this one was before most of your time.

oME

I can't believe how hard to take some secrets out...


This thread is becoming for people who knows the ways to kick it up higher and just telling people about the results and also for some eager people wanting to learn new stuffs and drool about what ways are out there and not telling it.

Its like showing a candy to a child and not giving it.

Are there any ways to buy these secrets and also the finished products to settle this one...

Or just tell us how... Hmmm???

Please?

rough512

iTrader: (12)

I have no idea where to start tapping it. But as for how hard, I'll start dropping the motor at increasing heights then see which height gives the best result

tc3team

Was it dropped so the can hit the deck, or the endbell though?

little man

have you tried drilling small holes in the oillites bit no 52-65 work well but dont drill to far because you will hit the shaft
after drilling use light machine oil on the oillite then run in on drill press at medium speed for about 45 minutes,after run in apply smaal amount of pressur to posotive side of brush through the hole in the endbell or side vent and this will get some free power and revs.
a tao5 with lipo weighs 1325 grams ready to run including tamiya body and battery gear it down to about 4.5-1 using after market pinion and spur they fit
example is68 spur/ 34 pinion *final drive of 2.25=4.5 but run a fan
spray motor out with degreaser after performance drops until spray is clear then re oil

SirSwiftAlot

iTrader: (11)

Here is what I mean and this seems to work for me. When they build these motors and I don't mean that there is some guy in a manufacturing facility somewhere in japan or china named Bob. These motors are built by a machine and the machine dosen't care about our feelings and frustrations when it comes to making these motors faster. The bushings are put in the can and endbell and are not perfectly aligned so what I do is I slam the motor down on the concrete (can side down with the negative side facing up and positive side down) hard enough to break a glass. These seems to seat the bushings and reduce the friction. I also lighty tap the motor shaft side down on the concrete hard enough to break an egg several times and this also helps to seat the bushings. Also try rotating the can when your hitting it on the ground toward the negative about 10 degrees each time and sometimes you will see a difference. I am sure this sounds like witchcraft to some of you but it works for me. Also this process along with the others you read in this post should have each motor on and off the dyno several times. I wouldn't be suprised if I don't dyno my motor prior to running atleast 20 times.

Good Ruck,

SirSwiftAlot

iTrader: (11)

Where in the hell are you drilling again? The brush? The Bushing? Sounds Confusing or maybe I am just up way to damn early. Tweaking the brush is an old technique and getting away from that the more I learn other methods. It seems to lose alot of torque when you tweak the brush.

2 cents.

joe of loath

iTrader: (1)

so, i've been doing some thinking. when you get the motor they're dry inside, right? so if you press the can down and run in (with a drill so you can clamp the shaft and pull the can), then that should polish the bushings slightly. then do it by pushing the can up. then you should have slicker bushings.

also, i guess these techniques work with sliver can mod motors? (like the traxxas and HPI closed endbell ones) i've got a 21t i'm interested in fiddling with (its my race motor )

just to clarify, the motor should be dry when run in like this, and also the drill must be a high RPM. it might help to pin the brushes back so they don't bed in in the wrong part of the comm.

Granpa

Look, I was just kidding in my last post. However, there was enough information there for anyone who wanted to do some experimentation to figure it out. Brandon just made it easy for you in his post, but you're still going to have to experiment to see if it works for you.

In all seriousness tho, do you honestly expect one of the motor gurus to tell you what they are doing????? A motor guru I am not, but I probably know more than most. And I've probably ruined more more motors than many have even purchased. The gurus have really paid their dues and they'll share with whom they want, but don't expect a mind purge on the internet.

Sorry, I didn't mean to sound harsh and if I did, my apologies in advance.

Granpa

In case you missed my point, I'll let you know what I've been playing with lately, which what effect comm drops may have. Base line rpm on this motor was 18,640. Comm had been cleaned with Brasso. Next the comm was polished with a chrome cleaner which can be found in most well stocked auto parts stores like Pep Boys. Rpm 18,900. Used Tribo and rpm dropped to 18360, but amp draw went up. Cleaned and polished and used a different comm drop. Rpm went down slightly and amp draw went up again. Sprayed motor out with motor spray, reoiled, but did not polish or clean. Rpm was 18,900. Ran motor for 5 min. at 7.2 volts. Rpm was 19,260. Waiting for the motor to cool so we can test it again. Suspect that the extra rpm was due to the motor being warm. So what does this all mean????
1. I've got more time than brains.
2. I have no idea.
3. Is this worth trying at the next race? You bet. 600+ rpm in just how you prep to race is well worth it.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

I love it when people work hard to get a few extra rpm out of their silver cans. There's nothing easy with these little buggers- every couple hundred rpm is another battle. Keep experimenting!

RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

For 2 years we ran door-to-door every week! and in the last 3 months you've gotten away from me
Better lines, faster motor ... I'm in trouble! Your're right it's worth it. Gotta raise my game.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

Now that would be a sight to see. Although that would definately change the Guru status for many...

little man

the rpm i use on my drill press is 2500rpm done in 6 lots of 10 minute runs with a 5 minute cooling period in the freezer. after aech run rip the motor out re oil bushings and run again this seats the brush and polishes the com as well as the heat and cool stress will help the bushes settle into their correct position.after run in spray out the motor to clean it.
if you want to check results hook up a voltmetre on the first run and read voltag do again on last run and compare differance,if you voltmetre reads resistance use that as well the resistance will drop because the brushs are better seated.
the gain you get is top end speed with a little torque gain due to better brush seating. total time is 90 minutes.wear gloves when handeling motor it might get warm and cover the leads that come of the motor to the esc,dont use com drops
the holes are drilled into the bushing after run in and before cleaning but cover all holes in the can because loose debris will get in and kill the motor
the heat cycling that this motor goes through is what sets it up for a good life
for sanctioned events dont drill the bushes its illegal