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Old 12-22-2007, 04:25 PM   #766
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i sprayed half into my comm drop bottle with a half of motor spray and before each race i got a cotton bud dipped it in let it drip off the excess then just lighlty touched it on the comm as i span the wheels.
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Old 12-22-2007, 04:26 PM   #767
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i sprayed half into my comm drop bottle with a half of motor spray and before each race i got a cotton bud dipped it in let it drip off the excess then just lighlty touched it on the comm as i span the wheels.
oh ok i probably used too much then. i'll pull my motor apart and try again (its actually a 550 - eugh)
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Old 12-22-2007, 07:23 PM   #768
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Message of Thanks! I have picked up an immense amount of knowledge re:motors, lines, build-ups, tires, radios, servos, etc from all the racers/builders of Minis and I extend a heartfelt Thanks to all. Keep on sharing what you know- Have a Merry Christmas one and all!
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Old 12-22-2007, 07:59 PM   #769
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I'm looking for a dyno. Is the Fantom a good one???? If so, where did you obtain it? I'm pretty good with chassis and tire set ups, but a neophyte at motor tuning. Know a few of the "tricks" and can improve most motors some, but need to get better. I heard the Fantom software was difficult. Is this true?? Are there better dynos on the market??? You can PM me with the info.
The RSR / Fantom Dyno was originally developed for the oval crowd. It is an accelerometer, not a dynomometer. It is similar to the low end motor checkers like Integy, APS and Much More. This one however will measure acceleration among other things.

I recommend the Turbo Dyno. It is a true dyno where loads are applied to the motor.
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:58 PM   #770
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My personal vote for Best Mabuchi Dyno Ever is the Tekin 900. Simple, effective, also puts a load on the motor. Easy to transport, very consistent, generally available for under $100 on eBay.
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:32 AM   #771
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My personal vote for Best Mabuchi Dyno Ever is the Tekin 900. Simple, effective, also puts a load on the motor. Easy to transport, very consistent, generally available for under $100 on eBay.
I would have to say runner up would be the Bud's Dyno. 3 load and rpm settings, what more can anyone want. . .
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:45 AM   #772
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Lavco Junior Dyno-perfect working order. Great unit from the 90's with slave motor. Used for stock and 19 turn.

BK Presision 1692 40 amp PS with variable voltage 1-16 volts.

Sold as pair $250.

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Old 12-26-2007, 11:46 AM   #773
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Lavco Junior Dyno-perfect working order. Great unit from the 90's with slave motor. Used for stock and 19 turn.

Brilliant on silver cans.

BK Presision 1692 40 amp PS with variable voltage 1-16 volts.

Sold as pair $250.

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Old 12-26-2007, 12:10 PM   #774
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Thanx for all the dyno feedback. Information overload, however. Did not know there were so many dynos out there. I guess with the brushless revolution, dynos are pretty much obsolete.

Jacko, you have PM
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Old 12-26-2007, 06:11 PM   #775
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First let me wish all a Happy Holidays!!!

Guys even though I never really post much on here and with all the drama sometimes I'm glad I don't. After following this thread since the wee first few pages has anyone actually have any solid advice on can motors? Sorry guys, the only good advice came from Grandpa way back when not to break these motors in backwards.
I, like a few of ya guys who I totally respect, am totally against cheating and cranking motors. I race with a bunch of guys who I call close friends and to cheat would be totally disrepectful to the hobby and my friends. We all hit events once and a while and every little piece of advice we try to help each other out. You race with fast guys and it will only make you faster.
Now I race mini can motors more than the bigger silver can. However, restrictions is restrictions, there really isn't too much legal that you can do. Has anyone tried cooling their motors before a race. At an event I have seen guys hitting their motors with a cooling solvent to chill their motors. Heat equals wasted energy, it sounds like it would make sense.
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Old 12-26-2007, 06:11 PM   #776
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First let me wish all a Happy Holidays!!!

Guys even though I never really post much on here and with all the drama sometimes I'm glad I don't. After following this thread since the wee first few pages has anyone actually have any solid advice on can motors? Sorry guys, the only good advice came from Grandpa way back when not to break these motors in backwards.
I, like a few of ya guys who I totally respect, am totally against cheating and cranking motors. I race with a bunch of guys who I call close friends and to cheat would be totally disrepectful to the hobby and my friends. We all hit events once and a while and every little piece of advice we try to help each other out. You race with fast guys and it will only make you faster.
Now I race mini can motors more than the bigger silver can. However, restrictions is restrictions, there really isn't too much legal that you can do. Has anyone tried cooling their motors before a race. At an event I have seen guys hitting their motors with a cooling solvent to chill their motors. Heat equals wasted energy, it sounds like it would make sense.
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Old 12-26-2007, 06:12 PM   #777
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Sorry bout the double hit
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:24 AM   #778
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Default mabuchi motors

been reading all the comments about the 540 motors and there area lot of ways people do to break in or make faster.

brasso cleaner looks to clean the comm does this make it more powerful?

would using a comm cleaning stick ( glass paper on a stick ) make it perform more?

i currently use WD40 oil on the bushings but tend to spray in ,,,should i dab it on rather then spray it?

lastly what about freeze spray for the motor , spraying it just before racing making the motor cold so taking longer to heat up and therefore should perform better??

look forward to all your thoughts
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Old 12-27-2007, 11:07 AM   #779
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Yes, Brasso works fine to clean the comm. The cleaner and shinier the commutator, the faster and more efficient the motor. If you can come up with a way to use a comm stick, that will also work well, especially if the comm is dark and dirty. However, since it is virtually impossible to apply even pressure all around the comm, eventually - after many uses- you will make it egg shaped and performance will be reduced.

Put away the WD-40 and use almost any kind of 5 weight oil: Mobil 1, something from the hobby shop, etc. Use a needle applicator and put it on from the outside.

Cooling the motor down in any way- freeze spray, gum remover (my personal favorite ), a motor cooling device, whatever- will make it live longer but will not necessarily improve performance.

Just my $.02 and worth what you paid for it!
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:39 PM   #780
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Just some random thoughts from someone who's not an expert on these motors, but someone who's ruined a lot of motors trying to be.
1. WD 40 has it's uses, but is not a good motor lubricant. Trinity red bushing oil is good and can double as a comm drop. It's better than a lot of the comm drops on the market, but not the best.
2. Water dipping a motor is a good way to ruin it. If you must, do it at a low voltage ( 1 volt or less) and keep the water clean. Frankly, my best motors were not dipped but broken in at 1-3 volts for a long time. keep the bushings oiled.
3. There are many legal ways to make these motors perform better, but trying to pry these "secrets" from a moter expert is harder than pulling teeth with a tweezer. I know, I'm a retired dentist. I stumpled across one "secret" when I accidentally dropped a motor on my work bench. What is it? That's my secret.
4. Getting a motor to perform is easy illegally, doing it legally is much harder, but possible. Even a nummie like mr has a few "tricks".

Y'all have a GREAT NEW YEAR and kick some butt in your next races.
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