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Old 11-05-2007, 09:10 AM   #526
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
If you are geared any lower than a 5.2 final ratio you are just killing the motor...it will be fast for a run- maybe for two, but thasssit. Stick a fork in it.
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:00 AM   #527
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5.2 is OVERKILL!!!
definately mis informed ..... Depending on your motors rmp and torque, 5.2 could be perfect. I am currently running my silver can tb-02 at 4.9 and kickin a$$ with it.!!
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:50 AM   #528
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Could somebody tell me which high end ESC has more punch and high point for silver can motor?
I think GTX, Icube2, QC3 or VF1 C3 are first choices.
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:26 AM   #529
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Ok, after each person has done their "trick" to improve the motor. What do you use to prove that your method works?

Do you use a Dyno?
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Old 11-06-2007, 05:12 AM   #530
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Sure do. I use an Orion MPM to check unloaded RPM and amp draw at 5 volts, then a Tekin 900 to check efficiency and torque under load. In my opinion the Tekin is the most effective Mabuchi/Johnson dyno ever made. You can still pick them up from time to time here on RC Tech or on eBay.

Best way to test a motor, however, is on the track against a good lap timing system. Take good notes on each motor's dyno readouts, then match that up with track results, and you have information that's worth something.
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Old 11-06-2007, 05:20 AM   #531
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I´ve bought a slightly used TA05 and comes with a Johnson 540 motor, its 4-hole and doesn´t is too much used/wear, brushes as I can see from hole has at least 3mm high, the comm is a little dirt between contacts, and motor sounds not loud, as I guess it should be a good one, was reading whole thread, and just want to know, considering this, its a good idea to dip in water some seconds to clean it up, then drop some oil in comm ? I think a breake cleaner or WD40 before in comm to help cleaning should be a point

thanks !
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Old 11-06-2007, 05:36 AM   #532
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bugnet, I guess its ok for the bushings, but never get wd40 near the commutator. It will burn up onto it and then your motor wont work so well.

Brake cleaner is better to totally clean the motor out with, then re oil the bushings. If the brushes look seated well you shouldnt need to run in the motor any more
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:29 AM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Could somebody tell me which high end ESC has more punch and high point for silver can motor?
I think GTX, Icube2, QC3 or VF1 C3 are first choices.
I prefer my Rapida Pro.. dial the frequency down to .5 KHz, crazy punch.. just be easy on the throttle, or else you can end up with a scorched comm..
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:54 AM   #534
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thanks tc3team, I will buy some brake cleaner and some drops in bushes,and get this motor to run fast in next racing meet, I came back to tell !
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Old 11-06-2007, 10:09 AM   #535
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Originally Posted by Jam-ehz View Post
I prefer my Rapida Pro.. dial the frequency down to .5 KHz, crazy punch.. just be easy on the throttle, or else you can end up with a scorched comm..
Compare with VFS-1, how is it?

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thanks tc3team, I will buy some brake cleaner and some drops in bushes,and get this motor to run fast in next racing meet, I came back to tell !
If you use brake cleaner could be only 2-3 days before from the race, never during race day, due cleaner will affect the brush performance. You should bring air blower (ex:makita ones) to put away the dust and other dirty kinds from motor among main runs.
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Old 11-06-2007, 10:27 AM   #536
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I have used brake cleaner on the day of racing with no bad effects, but that is with rebuildable stock motors. I try to keep the brushes away from it with stock, but I understand thats not an option with sealed can motors.

I dont think it harms the motor, but ALWAYS make sure its on a cool motor!!!!

WD40 evaporates, so you may need to reoil more frequently than using light oil. if using the latter, use 1 small drop per bushing and try to apply it to the side of the bushing. no more or it will foul the commutator if youre putting on too much. (if you apply to the motor shaft it may all run down to the commutator which isnt good!).
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Old 11-06-2007, 09:33 PM   #537
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
I have used brake cleaner on the day of racing with no bad effects, but that is with rebuildable stock motors. I try to keep the brushes away from it with stock, but I understand thats not an option with sealed can motors.

I dont think it harms the motor, but ALWAYS make sure its on a cool motor!!!!

WD40 evaporates, so you may need to reoil more frequently than using light oil. if using the latter, use 1 small drop per bushing and try to apply it to the side of the bushing. no more or it will foul the commutator if youre putting on too much. (if you apply to the motor shaft it may all run down to the commutator which isnt good!).
Not In case on sealed can motors. About the rebuildable ones, i saw some guys want to spare times just cover brushes with little piece of toilet paper to clean motor, but i will not do that, maybe paper will absorbing cleaner liquid, if you are not carefully then spray a little.
WD40 never could be my choice to treat motors, sometimes becomes a threat, in case it sticks a lot of rubbish and dust.
Why don't try on air blower?
A lot made in China are costing very low price.
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:23 PM   #538
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This is a regimen I've found to be the most reliable. Put a little Brasso on the comm, a pinion on the motor and spin by hand. Flush out with water and blow out and dry the motor with air. When in a hurry, I'll use a little motor spray to clean out the Brasso. Don't run the motor with Brasso on the comm as that will fill up the slots in the comm with dried up Brasso and you'll play heck trying to clean it out.
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Old 11-07-2007, 03:12 PM   #539
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I have also found through numerous hours of dyno work that using a mini sand blaster to clean your comm works really good to. I have one at work I am an asian dentist and this seems to work good if your running at soacal only. Just make sure you turn it up full blast and hold it on the comm for about 5-8 minutes and you will see tremendous results. Thats of course your looking to destroy your slow motor and need a reason to buy a new one.

J/K

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Old 11-07-2007, 07:53 PM   #540
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Most of the info in this thread is for 540 motors. I run a 280 and 370, 1/18th scale. Both classes I run are stock motors Losi slider and AE rc18R. Any tips for the mini racers? It's much harder to get to the comm on the smaller motors.
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