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Old 08-13-2007, 10:09 AM   #451
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i know dude but iam making a Top Speed car.....using a mabuchi/johnson or sport tuned....u sure u got 29k...my 15x2 does 25.9k and revs alot more than my sport tuned??

but the jett v8.0 has a lot more torq aswell
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:12 AM   #452
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i would of refered to my sport tuned box but i cant find it.....i think it said like 21 or so...not sure...can any1 verify
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:27 AM   #453
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i got a pretty annoying Q...

y does the motor rev more (higher max rpm) in reverse....is it coz the timing changes so it becomes more powerful or is it sumthin complex...or really simple...thanxs
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:27 AM   #454
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are you asking about the rpm of the sport tuned motor,,, according to my box it's 18600
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Old 08-13-2007, 01:47 PM   #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wog....supraman View Post
i know dude but iam making a Top Speed car.....using a mabuchi/johnson or sport tuned....u sure u got 29k...my 15x2 does 25.9k and revs alot more than my sport tuned??

but the jett v8.0 has a lot more torq aswell
for real but like REALLY NO torque at all.....

All the luck on your project Supra.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:19 PM   #456
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Originally Posted by wog....supraman View Post
tryin 2 caluclate some things

need sum help though

i need to know the MAX RPM you have achieved on a dyno
so yea

thanxs
18,300rpm.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:30 AM   #457
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I did some digging in my files and....

The best few of my regular silver cans (bear in mind these were the older 4 hole type) was 23k-24.5k.

These motors had big quality differences. I tested quite a lot(!) so there were also very good ones occasionaly.

Most motors, after run in and so on, 18-20.5k.
These kept performing at this level!
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:47 AM   #458
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ok thanxs alot guys

wog
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:15 AM   #459
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hi guys, any body know much about the Much more motor master/dyno, everytime i go to dyno my 540 motor it always gives a different rpm.. Thanks
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:35 AM   #460
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The grommet on the rpm port on both the Much More and the Orion is sized for the output snout of a stock or mod can, but the Mabuchi/Johnson can snout is somewhat larger. This causes the sensor to be misalaigned to the receptiors so you will get wildly differing readouts.

If you use the motor holder/cradle, just remove the grommet altogether when running silver cans. If you hold the motor by hand, replace it with a plastic or rubber spacer of the correct external thickness and ID of the silver can motor (the central ring of a Tamiya plastic parts tree spruel works well for this application when Shoe Goo'd to the outside of the case).

When modified in this fashion, you will get consistent readouts every time- within a few hundred RPM- as long as the power supply you are using is rated no lower than the amp draw needed to start up the motor- 20 amps should be fine.
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Old 08-27-2007, 09:43 AM   #461
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I used to run 540 class and I can honestly say I've tried ever trick in the book and nothing worked period. The only way to make them faster is to run them, and run them with a load. I took a mini cooper with a silver can with me everywhere one summer and ran the snot out of it, literally wore through tires in the end I ended up with a fast silver can. That is the only way to do it. You also never want to get the motor too hot as this will ruin the magnets.
.....the reason it probaly got faster is as the motor wore, the bushings got some wear,thus had more clearance and allowed the motor to run more free.....if i'm not mistaken, didn't RCCA have an article about mixing up some automotive rubbing compund and water i think and putting it on/in the bushing to get a little "wear" in them..........supposedy helped the motors performance........
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:17 PM   #462
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I wrote that original RCCA article in 1993, and it was aluminum polish and RevTech comm drops. This was before Trinity released Bushing Buster, which works just as well.

Flush after using!
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:28 AM   #463
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Quote:
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I wrote that original RCCA article in 1993, and it was aluminum polish and RevTech comm drops. This was before Trinity released Bushing Buster, which works just as well.

Flush after using!
I think I have that issue...
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:53 AM   #464
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i always use autosol to break in silver can motor...kind of polishing thing...
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:14 AM   #465
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hi rccardr, are you talking about the rubber where the motor bushing inserts into, as mod motors fit perfectly into the rubber, but because 540's have a bigger bushing, the sensor dosent line up? is that what you mean, im abit confused!
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