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Old 03-05-2006, 11:09 AM   #31
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I waterdipped a silver can once, in the kitchen sink with lots of water to keep it cool. After 5 battery packs there was no obvious wear to the brushes, man they are hard! More than five seconds with a Reedy, etc. will wear out the brushes, these lasted more than 50!

A friend suggested running in the motor until it is very hot, then dip the hot motor into ice water. The theory is the heat softens the copper wire and the sudden cooling will make the wire contract, resulting in tighter windings. Can't say it actually worked for my motor.

Still searching for that elusive "hot" silvercan motor

Tamiyamanuk, I believe you misread about oiling;

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make sure that you put a drop of decent oil on each of the bushes
That would be the shaft bushings, use a fine sewing machine type of oil.
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:29 AM   #32
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I used to run 540 class and I can honestly say I've tried ever trick in the book and nothing worked period. The only way to make them faster is to run them, and run them with a load. I took a mini cooper with a silver can with me everywhere one summer and ran the snot out of it, literally wore through tires in the end I ended up with a fast silver can. That is the only way to do it. You also never want to get the motor too hot as this will ruin the magnets.
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:02 PM   #33
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so its a good,worn in , clean motor then that the serect
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Old 03-05-2006, 02:29 PM   #34
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we run ours in for about 5-6 hours @4 or 5 v( start at 2v work your way up to it)

Oil occaisionally.

This will allow the bushes to wear in and loosen up as well as break in the brushes.
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Old 03-05-2006, 03:03 PM   #35
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so whats the best oil to use there is so many different oils out there????
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Old 03-06-2006, 08:35 AM   #36
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right then theres a challage for you guys

"who has the the quickest silver can motor"

and also if you wont to be nice what was you secret
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Old 05-17-2006, 09:48 AM   #37
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last night broke in moter between 1 volt and 5 volts for 1 hour, cleaned the come with a copper cleaner applied with a q tip and sprayed clean w/motor spray. I then lubed the bearings with tribo tech and put a drop on the com. I picked up from about 19,000 rpm @89 ams to 23,000 rpm @ about 1.3 amps.
put a drop of tribo on the com. and you will p/u some a little more rpms and amp draw. Ther are still guys that will blow my doors off in GT2. so there are more secrets out there. hope this helps.
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:11 AM   #38
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soak motor overnight in kerosene , it soften`s the bursh`s so it can goes way faster than the normal tune tricks... ...
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Old 05-17-2006, 01:07 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
certain brand of "power spray" - that I think is unavailable now.
Trinity Holeshot... I still have a can.
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nagatahawk
last night broke in moter between 1 volt and 5 volts for 1 hour, cleaned the come with a copper cleaner applied with a q tip and sprayed clean w/motor spray. I then lubed the bearings with tribo tech and put a drop on the com. I picked up from about 19,000 rpm @89 ams to 23,000 rpm @ about 1.3 amps.
put a drop of tribo on the com. and you will p/u some a little more rpms and amp draw. Ther are still guys that will blow my doors off in GT2. so there are more secrets out there. hope this helps.
At what voltage is a silver can turning 23,000 rpm?? I have regularly dyno'd silvercans for several years on a Fantom Facts Dyno (which is 5.0V) searching for the Holy Grail of Mabuchi's, testing various break in methods (water dip, reverse running, various "secret" sauces, various brands of comm drops), and the best I've ever seen is just over 16,000 rpm (at 5V). Of course, since I was searching for TCS legal good motors, I did not (and will not) attempt to crank the comm.
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:39 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minidriver
At what voltage is a silver can turning 23,000 rpm?? I have regularly dyno'd silvercans for several years on a Fantom Facts Dyno (which is 5.0V) searching for the Holy Grail of Mabuchi's, testing various break in methods (water dip, reverse running, various "secret" sauces, various brands of comm drops), and the best I've ever seen is just over 16,000 rpm (at 5V). Of course, since I was searching for TCS legal good motors, I did not (and will not) attempt to crank the comm.
most likely he's testing it at 7.2v
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:52 PM   #42
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Probably 7.2v or higher... LOL

The newer mabuchis are keyed so that cranking usually destroys the motor.

Like anything else breakin takes time.
I usually go for full brush seating on the com.
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Old 05-17-2006, 07:11 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Ko
Probably 7.2v or higher... LOL

The newer mabuchis are keyed so that cranking usually destroys the motor.

Like anything else breakin takes time.
I usually go for full brush seating on the com.
jeff.. gonna share your secrets? i heard you had a land missile at the last TCS!
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Old 05-17-2006, 07:17 PM   #44
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I heard squashing the can so the magnets are closer to the armature using a vice helps.
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Old 05-17-2006, 07:21 PM   #45
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In what way are the 4 hole cans better and why? I came across one from a tamiya kit in my garage that's about 6 yrs. old. I tested it in the original kit and it moved pretty good with the factory gearing. I'll probably be using it for the upcoming TCS here in about a month--Al
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