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Old 05-24-2007, 02:32 AM   #421
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I wasnt planning on using it in a race, i just wanted to see if it would work any better...oh well...pointless now....i destroy the comm at school whilst trying to lathe it down abit.....i had it almost perfect then then lathe cut sik (as it has done 3 or 4 times b4) and destroyd the comm completly

thanxs for the info guys
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:47 AM   #422
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Wogsupreman
Can i just ask one question?
You said that you put it in a lathe, and it got, whats a word............busted,
That is Karma
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:57 AM   #423
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Bad Karma does exist.

I took ages trying to get an armature out of an old 27t sealed stock motor so I could skim it.

Then the band must have stretched on the lathe, BANG. threw the commutator into bits. The lathe bit is now in a bad way too I think.

I wanted to put it into another can and use it in my sons car, maybe *if allowed* race it..... wont be doing that now!
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:04 AM   #424
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Aussie Bob

1. Yes correct the lathe ate the comm!!!!
2. It is wogsupRAman....not supERman......I am a jap car enthusiast i live for supras...thus getting my name...SUPRMAN....simple
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Old 05-25-2007, 05:15 PM   #425
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I spelt it right in the first place, supREman, not superman as in man of steel, supre as in female clothing shops SUPRE, pronounced as "soopray"
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Old 06-15-2007, 05:20 AM   #426
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1) I have an old 540 2slot with a black endbell to it, but its been in my box for at least 5 years Do you think the magnets will be trashed by now?

2) Will running a fan over it help keep the power of it up?

3) If the motor is still worth playing with I was going to run it in a drill for a few seconds (15 seconds?) at a high speed as I hear this can speed them up a bit?

Then do the water dip on it.

It is just a thought, more of an experiment to see how it will hold up against rebuildable stock motors
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Old 06-19-2007, 11:22 AM   #427
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1) No. Sitting will keep the magnets good.

2) A fan will not give you a noticable difference.

3) not really

water dip) If your brushes are not fully seated on the com I would water dip.

Your gearing (final drive ratio) will be much hotter than stock motors.
Usually around 5 to 1 for mabuchi.
Stock usually starts for me around 7.3 to 1.

After every run squirt motor spray on com after motor is cooled to clean it and spin the motor by hand a few times. You can do this with the motor in your car.
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Old 06-19-2007, 02:19 PM   #428
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Thanks A-ko, thats really informative, I might have to dig the 540's out and see how they go!
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Old 06-19-2007, 03:52 PM   #429
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Default TAMIYA 540 SILVER CAN

I have a M03M and it came w/ a Mabuchi 540SH motor.
It runs okay but, is the Johnson 540 motor better?
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:00 PM   #430
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Most of the stuff I have read is about how to "break in" a motor - assuming this is for new ones.

What about old/used silver cans? I have one that is just over a year old that needs some help.

On a related note - we checked several motors the other morning before we started racing (there is only about 5 of us that run "spec" for our club races), and they all checked within a few hundred rpm's of each other - but on the track, this motor was way off the pace. I've ruled out battery, so outside of a bearing or something in the car dragging it down, anyone have an idea why it would perform so much worse on the track?
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:59 PM   #431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctoyguy View Post
Most of the stuff I have read is about how to "break in" a motor - assuming this is for new ones.

What about old/used silver cans? I have one that is just over a year old that needs some help.

On a related note - we checked several motors the other morning before we started racing (there is only about 5 of us that run "spec" for our club races), and they all checked within a few hundred rpm's of each other - but on the track, this motor was way off the pace. I've ruled out battery, so outside of a bearing or something in the car dragging it down, anyone have an idea why it would perform so much worse on the track?
Because testing RPM on a motor master or similar means nothing at all. It is really no indication of the motors performance. Numbers only mean something if they are from a proper dyno. But in the end, the track is always the best dyno.
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Old 06-20-2007, 04:28 AM   #432
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Its interesting how people say spray motor spray into the comm after its cooled down to clean the comm, as I heard motor spray is bad stuff for the brushes and can take the oil out of them.

I guess it depends which one you use? Maybe there is a certain chemical in some that is detrimental to the brush performance. I could be looking at things in too much detail though
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:51 AM   #433
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Default How long do they last

Hi Guys

What is the general feeling about how long a "Silver Can" will continue to perform for before performance drops off and you can it (excuse the pun).

Lets say you race once a week and practice once a week.

Cheers
Ross

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Old 06-25-2007, 02:25 PM   #434
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Keep it oiled and clean.....a really looooong time!
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:54 PM   #435
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I had one which remained competitive for almost 2 years, it was a great motor,
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