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Old 03-14-2007, 02:27 PM   #346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loopedeloop
Apparently they are easy to open but very difficult to put back together without leaving signs that it has been opened.
Its easy to advance timing but also easy to check current draw on a motor checker.
Over here we are enforcing a 1.7A max current unloaded at 8 volts.
If your motor draws close to the limit it is subject to a 2nd test in reverse direction. If the current draw is different the tech person can disqualify you as this points to the motor being "timed".

Best just to leave it alone and run it in properly for the best performance.

You will spend the rest of your life trying to shake off the label "CHEATER"

It just aint worth it
I had and have NO intention of doing it. When I suggested silvercan as a good beginner type racing I was told that cheating with them is extremely easy and everyone does it now and simply would do it in the future. They prefer coming up with a voltage limiter that someone would have to invent to go between the motor and ESC or going to 4-5 cells in a battery pack...both of which would cost racers more money then just buying a good silvercan and race.
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:37 PM   #347
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I guess cheating is easy but it's also easy to bust these W***ers with a simple tech test.
Silver can is THE best form of spec and entry level racing.
The 1.7A current limit keeps things even, simple as that.
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:41 PM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loopedeloop
I guess cheating is easy but it's also easy to bust these W***ers with a simple tech test.
Silver can is THE best form of spec and entry level racing.
The 1.7A current limit keeps things even, simple as that.
That's what I thought too, but they'd rather complicate things. I think Canada TCS has a 1.3A current limit and I'd be fine with any of that.
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:44 PM   #349
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anything over 2amps will over heat if u run a 20 tooth pinion just buy motors til u get a good 1
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:49 PM   #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muahdib4
That's what I thought too, but they'd rather complicate things. I think Canada TCS has a 1.3A current limit and I'd be fine with any of that.
Just keep the pressure on. There seems to be a bias in rc against the use of these motors. I cant understand it as the silver can classes over here are the best supported and most competitive we race.
Not to mention the cheapest to run both in setup cost and running costs/wear and tear.

Just check out the success of this grade at any club that runs them. It speaks for itself.
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:51 PM   #351
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So that makes me wonder if some are cranking a small amount at a time to get a performance gain without going over the amp limit? I guess I am in the dark as to how it's done, and plan on keeping it that way. But this summer with our mini class I will be teching motors including my own to keep all things fair. I guess as long as their is opportunity to cheat, some will

I'd love to start a GT3 class this summer too!!
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:10 PM   #352
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The cranking small amounts of timing should be shown up by a reverse direction test. If the current draw is less in reverse it would lead you to suspect timing has been applied.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:34 PM   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Creations
So that makes me wonder if some are cranking a small amount at a time to get a performance gain without going over the amp limit? I guess I am in the dark as to how it's done, and plan on keeping it that way. But this summer with our mini class I will be teching motors including my own to keep all things fair. I guess as long as their is opportunity to cheat, some will

I'd love to start a GT3 class this summer too!!
Cool, tech mine...I barely know what to do with the ones I have other than plug them in and go. Also, I thought Johnson motors were suppled with most, if not all, Tamiya kits...I was putting my Swift together last night and there was a Mabuchi in there?!?!? If you could get people to run a GT3 class, I'd give it a shot. I still have my TA05 though no motor in it but I've got a good assortment of silvercans to play with.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:45 PM   #354
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My Swift came with a Mabuchi too.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:45 PM   #355
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I've heard of guys using a vice and then a high torque drill to tighten the winds slightly to get 20-23,000 rpms at 7.2volts. other ones I've heard are using a Dremel to break in the motor rather than a battery, you tighten the Dremel to the armature and then spin it in a glass of water at max speed for a couple seconds (usually 30,000rpms) and the motor will then spin 25,000 at 7.2.

Another trick I've actually seen is someone put a silver-can into their magnet zapper before a race. Actually works well for the first three minutes or so if you can manage to drive a clean line you can try and put laps on everyone until the zap wears down.

PS: Silver cans come as Mubashi OR Johnson. Depends on the model and where it comes from.
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:07 PM   #356
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1) It is not possible to open a modern silver can motor and put it back together without it being very obvious. Period.
2) It is not possible to crank a modern silver can motor (advance the timing) without killing it due to the cam lock installed when it is manufactured. Period.
3) It is possible to advance the timing slightly on a modern silver can motor using a magnet zapper, but while RPM goes up, torque goes waaaaaay down.

Take it from someone who's been there for a long time (check out the avatar): if you want a fast silver can motor, buy A LOT OF THEM, test them all, water dip and break in the fastest ones, and sell the rest to the kids in the neighborhood. Ask pretty much anyone in TCS: my silver cans ROCK...and they are legal. Including the amp draw thing.
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:09 PM   #357
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rccardr, "silver cans that rock"
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:04 AM   #358
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Are the Tamiya-supplied silvercans with a black metal endbell (assume it is a Johnson) KNOWN to be faster than the current grey-endbell motors?

Someone at the local club dug a black-endbell motor out of an old buggy and reckons it kicks the grey endbell motors on the motor checker.
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:04 AM   #359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkfox
other ones I've heard are using a Dremel to break in the motor rather than a battery, you tighten the Dremel to the armature and then spin it in a glass of water at max speed for a couple seconds (usually 30,000rpms) and the motor will then spin 25,000 at 7.2.
I might have to try that one out, do you know how long you do it for?
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:21 AM   #360
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For a couple seconds. The thought pattern behind this seems to be two-fold. First, that you're excellerating the break-in for a silver can, silver cans just run better and better with time. Second, some will argue that the speed you're pushing into the motor will tighten the winds around the armature because the motor was never meant to spin more than 20,000rpm. Either way, any silver can I've seen this happen two do two things. Go fast and draw over 11amps. Technically it's not cheating, but drawing that many amps out of a silver can is against TCS rules.
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