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Old 03-04-2006, 04:34 PM   #16
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Zap the magnets?
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:40 PM   #17
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it doesnt have to be legal as iam doing this at my local track and they dont check motors anyway as long as its a silver can
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Old 03-04-2006, 05:11 PM   #18
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i have just opened the can and it looks like i wont be able to put end back on as soon as you get it off?

so is it just sprays and oils the tricks then or is there anything else?


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Old 03-04-2006, 05:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
i have just opened the can and it looks like i wont be able to put end back on as soon as you get it off?
Thats the idea. The end bell is made so it cant be taken off without destoying the motor. Taking the end bell off to 'tune' it is also classed as cheating. Dont do it.

If you want to play with motor internals, get a modified motor.
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Old 03-04-2006, 05:28 PM   #20
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am just trying and testing
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Old 03-04-2006, 05:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
am just trying and testing
The best way to get performance out of the motor is to drive smoothly, gear it up, and dont hit things.

Leave the motor as it comes out of the box, run it in shellite to bed it in and its good to go. Tampering with the motor is cheating, dont do it - you're only cheating yourself.
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Old 03-04-2006, 06:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
try and get the name of the spray mate
I'm pretty sure it was Reedy power spray. Like I said I don't think it's available anymore.

I used to get a friend of mine to chemically test all these various motor sprays, comm drops, oils. lubes etc so I could find out what was in them, then go and by the actual stuff (at much cheaper prices ), unfortunately, I never got him to find out just what was in the Reedy spray, I just know it works.

My brother would buy as much as he could. I do remember that his motors basically lived in a bath of this stuff

EVERYONE PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING:

Before we all follow Vortex's advice and start running in our motors in Shellite - let me just say that this is VERY DANGEROUS and can result in the shellite catching fire!

I have seen a few drivers who have burnt their hands/arms by doing this!

We banned this idea in the interest of safety.

I am not saying that it doesn't work, but IMO you would have to be very desperate to consider this, considering the risk involved.
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Old 03-04-2006, 08:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
The best way to get performance out of the motor is to drive smoothly, gear it up, and dont hit things.

Leave the motor as it comes out of the box, run it in shellite to bed it in and its good to go. Tampering with the motor is cheating, dont do it - you're only cheating yourself.
coughcoughcheaterscoughcough lol just kidding
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Old 03-04-2006, 08:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
try and get the name of the spray mate
I think it was Rev Tech Motor Bath.....
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Old 03-04-2006, 11:40 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
i have just opened the can and it looks like i wont be able to put end back on as soon as you get it off?

so is it just sprays and oils the tricks then or is there anything else?


Cheers
tamiyamanuk
you wasted $15 doing this. keep on going and you will prob waste another 5 or more motors trying to get these faster. there is no secret to make them faster. i hope you take peoples advice and just leave them alone.

best way to win with these is to lighten your car. its too simple so you probably wont do it
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Old 03-05-2006, 06:17 AM   #26
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wat about sticking 2 fireworks to the side of me car and watching it blow up after i would never do that lol

so back to the motor stuff the best tip then is just keep it clean and oil the brushes after every run or so.


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Old 03-05-2006, 07:01 AM   #27
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Would'nt running the motor backwards with the power from a Dremel alter the timing to a certain point... as the brushes wear?? I've read this at a Mardave-relatet web-site.. they only race silvercans, so I guess they know their biss...
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:44 AM   #28
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I remember a few years ago, that to tune a silver can motor you put the pinion end of the shaft in a vice, so the motor is effectively standing up.

Place a pair of needle nosed pliers through the vent hole in the side of the can gripping the 'stack' firmly.
Gently but firmly advance the motor stack independently of the shaft moving = more timing
I would only recommend about 2 degs of 'twist' to be applied, if you over twist the arm you will notice all of the wire on the stack will be loose and the motor will be even slower.
I would always recommend doing this on an old motor first, then a new one once you are comfortable.

You gotta think outside of the box on this one fellas!
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:43 AM   #29
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Its called Cranking the motor, I don't think you can do it on these newer can motors. I may be wrong. I know back in the day they would do that to the old stock motors to advance the timing, thats why they lock the comms now.
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:32 AM   #30
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nice one wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwhhhhhhhhhoooooooopass

i might try this out on some old silver cans that i have lieing around in me pit box.

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