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Old 10-30-2006, 01:39 AM   #241
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yes, you need to get full contact with the brush and the comm. I water dip in 1.5 hour sessions at 2v then dry, relube etc, for as long as it takes to break in the brushes which is about 20 - 30 hours.
WOW!! 1.5 hour???
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:23 PM   #242
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So, now that I've read all these tricks, should I build a slave motor "dyno" - hook test motor to a slave motor and measure volts and/or amps off the slave - or should I just drop $100 for a real dyno????

Or, buy $100 worth of silver cans and keep the good ones?

Opinions?

Recommendations on a real dyno?

Thanks.
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:59 PM   #243
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Wow...this silver can stuff sound like a lot of vodoo. If I were to run silver can, I would do the following: If it's a big race, I'd run with high-quaility bearings with all of the oil and grease blown out (maybe add a microscopic drop of oil), make the car as light as possible, find a setup with high corner speed, and charge at 10 amps .
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:12 AM   #244
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the best I been getting is max power 36 to 37 920 tq 33watts 16 to 18,000 rpm on a Fantom dyno
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:42 PM   #245
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Originally Posted by Hawk6
So, now that I've read all these tricks, should I build a slave motor "dyno" - hook test motor to a slave motor and measure volts and/or amps off the slave - or should I just drop $100 for a real dyno????
....

$100 will only get u a motor checker (eg. TMM motor master, yokomo MMS, integy v2 dyno, etc ..).
those are not dyno as they measure the motor RPM without load.
the "motor checkers" are useful for comparing your different motors but nothing more beyond that.

- it will tell u motor A peaks at 25000 rpm and motor B at 29000rpm (and at what voltage that happens)
- but it doesn't tell u the length of time it takes to hit the peak (just exaggerating - motor A takes 2sec to hit 25000rpm under load, but motor B takes 8sec to hit 29000rpm under load)
- so u get a 1-dimension view only

if u want a real dyno then google on robitronics dyno, CE TD45, fantom dyno. they'll cost in excess of US$500 though
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:52 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk6
So, now that I've read all these tricks, should I build a slave motor "dyno" - hook test motor to a slave motor and measure volts and/or amps off the slave - or should I just drop $100 for a real dyno????

Or, buy $100 worth of silver cans and keep the good ones?

Opinions?

Recommendations on a real dyno?

Thanks.
I ve tried to build a slave motor dyno, with mixed results. The best thing I have come up with so far (with the exception of dropping some serious cash) is to get a large-ish plane propeller (which will provide the load) and see how much wind it generates - sounds very basic, but it cost me nothing, and you can "feel" the strength of the motors. I have borrowed rpm testers etc and while they are ok, they only test at no load, so there is no way of measuring torque...

my suggestion is to get as many motors you need to so you can use one motor per race, then swap it for a clean one for the next race. keep them SUPER clean, with a shinny com, it will go dull after a race and needs to be re-cleaned.

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Old 10-31-2006, 06:25 PM   #247
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Tekin dyno. Haven't been made in years but you can still find them here and on eBay. I'm not selling one, but here's a current posting:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tekin-Motor-Dyno...QQcmdZViewItem

These are the best Mabuchi motor testers ever made and the only one I use on my own bench.
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RED DOT MOTORS- Fastest Titan 12T and silver can 540 motors in the known galaxy!
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:35 PM   #248
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Thanks for the info on the Tekin dyno. Can you tell me why the Tekin is better, just so I know why I'm buying it (if I buy it)?

Thanks again.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:12 PM   #249
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That's a fellow members dyno on the forum listed here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=134800

Hey Doc, hi from Alabama

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Old 10-31-2006, 09:45 PM   #250
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Wow .. thatís really an old school dyno!!
But being a tekin product .. Iím sure it works.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:20 AM   #251
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Hawk- It's very stable and produces repeatable results, which is very important to me. The slave motor lasts forever (I use a mod can with a stock arm in it and hard brushes) and once set at at five volts and 15 amps of load you get real-life numbers that mean something in TCS racing (e.g. not too much load and not too little). You can also put a switch in between either of the slave motor leads and get a lighter load reading. It really works. Next time you go up to Trackside, ask around- there are bound to be a few of them in the pits. Or try to hook up with RC GaryK, who's somewhere in IL and might be able to help you out.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:45 AM   #252
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Thanks a bunch for the info.
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Old 11-01-2006, 01:38 PM   #253
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Tekin Dyno up for grabs here. Got on sitting on the shelf for the past 3 years gathering dust. $60 posted in USA.


PM me

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Old 11-08-2006, 12:27 PM   #254
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Howzit guys,

Has anyone tested the Robitronic dyno? Any good & value for money?

Cheers,
Vance.
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:36 AM   #255
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I built a very effective motor dyno for pennies, I also did a full article on it, will post tonight.......use you motor to drive another motor used as a slave measure the volts produced with a dvm, the faster its driven the higher the volts, dead simple and accurate, works on all motors of course not just silver cans.

The only secret I have found with the silver cans is the cleaner the comm the faster they go, WD40 and cotton buds used between each run helps, I also water dip......

have a look here:

http://uk.geocities.com/dave_pickett...ew_page_17.htm

Last edited by AEDave; 11-10-2006 at 11:19 AM.
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