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Old 10-12-2006, 07:26 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minimanintaiwan
thanks.

got a mini m03 last year and it came with a johnson 540 motor. Silver can, shiny finish.

just got a suzuki swift m03m and it came with a mabuchi RS-540SH silver matte finish.

So, which was faster??
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Old 10-12-2006, 08:30 PM   #227
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So, which was faster?? The older 4-slots back in the day, fortunately I have 4 brand new ones that I've been saving for the TCS series. I also have a new plastic endbell one that I plan on seeing what it can do.
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Old 10-12-2006, 08:47 PM   #228
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any differences in performance will come down to other factors like gearing, friction in the drive train, track being driven on, driver, batteries, how they have been run-in, how old/new, are they in good shape, recently oiled, clean/dirtly, has it ever over heated, which speed control, what type of wires, what type of connectors etc etc. all in all, I would consider 2 brand new motors (one of each type) to have the same performance.

the whole idea of 540 class is that the motors are the same, to make it a level playing field (at least on the motors).
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Old 10-12-2006, 09:16 PM   #229
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run the fuker in Coke Cola ....

acts like a abrasvise agent ...
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Old 10-12-2006, 09:21 PM   #230
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Lightbulb motors

I been jacking with these motors for a few years now and I picked up 5 on e-bay all old mabuchi "TCS legal" and never got the #'s out of any of my johnsons close but not the same we will see this TCS/Novak year that is if the novak has handout motors this time they didn't come make it on time last year we will see
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Old 10-12-2006, 09:26 PM   #231
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what about the matte motors supplied by tamiya recently?

I wont use them but wondered where the differences lie, is it RPM or torque or no difference?
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Old 10-12-2006, 09:29 PM   #232
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I have 1 to build now when i get time i will see what it does on the Dyno too busy painting .......
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Old 10-12-2006, 09:35 PM   #233
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Lightbulb team

u can see the M03M
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Silver Can Motor Tips/Tricks-s4010209.jpg  
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Old 10-13-2006, 12:33 AM   #234
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cool graphics
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Old 10-14-2006, 01:45 AM   #235
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Hey guys, i race with a 540 motor and i have never really kept it clean and i see people cleaning it after each run. I usually just spray it out once in a while. Here is the procedure i will use to clean it.

After each race i will-

1. spray it out with some cleaner
2. water dip it at 3v.
3. run it to get the water out.
4. clean the comm with a ear bud and metho.
5. Oil the bushes.

Should this keep the motor fairly clean? Should i water dip before spray? Also is there anything you would also reccommend me doing?

Thanks
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Old 10-15-2006, 04:21 AM   #236
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method sounds pretty good.

Not a huge amount of value in the water dipping, the motor spray will do just fine. The best thing you can do is get your comm looking nice and shiney. Cotton bud and metho will work a treat, keep cleaning until no more black stuff comes off on the cotton bud. Oil bushes with a really thin oil, and not too much, wipe up any excess.

Water dipping is more for running in when brand new...

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Old 10-15-2006, 04:37 AM   #237
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I actually only did that method once because i didn't have much time between races, but i cleaned the comm with a cotton bud and metho after every run.

With my motor only the corners of the brushes are touching the comm. Should i water dip it till it wears so the whole brush is touching the comm.

Cheers
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Old 10-15-2006, 04:42 AM   #238
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yes, you need to get full contact with the brush and the comm. I water dip in 1.5 hour sessions at 2v then dry, relube etc, for as long as it takes to break in the brushes which is about 20 - 30 hours.
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Old 10-15-2006, 04:45 AM   #239
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Could i just do it till i get full contact?
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:47 AM   #240
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you could, but re-lubing periodicly is good, also you need to inspect the comm to see when you have full contact and you cant do that unless you stop the motor. I just like to keep track of how long its been going for...
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