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Old 02-10-2013, 07:53 AM   #1681
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Back when I ran silver cans, the most important thing besides shimming the comm was spring tension on the brushes. The only real way to determine the best spring though is by running the motor on a dyno with every spring combination and record each result.

Shim the comm?! Change springs?! Do you know what a silver can is?
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:27 AM   #1682
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Hmmmm maybe not. I've always broken my brushed motors in with a 1.2 cell ran in a large cup of water until dead. Change water and run another one after oiling bushings again. Usually I do it 3 times.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #1683
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Hmmmm maybe not. I've always broken my brushed motors in with a 1.2 cell ran in a large cup of water until dead. Change water and run another one after oiling bushings again. Usually I do it 3 times.
That certainly is an acceptable method, but there are much easier ways to achieve the same results. This method works cause you're using low voltage and clean water. There are so many sources of low voltage outputs such as chargers, motor testers, power supplies that using a 1 or 2 nicad cells is an unnecessary inconvenience.

Now there have been a couple of posts recently that have advocated the use of mineral spirits and lifting the brushes away form the comm, mainly to break in the bushings. Now, I'm not saying that the posters were not successful in their efforts, only that, maybe not a wise thing to do for most of us. First, mineral spirits are a paint thinner aren't they???? Second, lifting the brushes off the comm an tweak the brush arms or holders. Usually not a good idea. Third, those bushing buster materials are abrasive and will get into the bushings and will not clean off.

For those who want to experiment with various materials, Here is a relatively safe way to do it. Use a slave motor and drop your material on the comm. If you're into mineral spirits, use it here. The current generated in the motor should not be enough to ignite it. Your bushings should break in at the same time. Whether you oil them or not is up to you. Clean the motor every so often, and you will get the beautiful looking comms you're looking for. Disadvantage is it takes a long time and is a bit of a PITA.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:06 PM   #1684
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Has anyone actually tried to build one of these? I built one but I cant get the software to work. If anyone has the settings for dynoing a mini please shoot me a pm.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:21 PM   #1685
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That's not so much a dyno as a speed checker, although some rough dyno data could be extrapolated. If you're looking to check speed, cheap, handheld, optical tachometers are available.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:25 AM   #1686
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Woooooah, my brain hurts, too much info for this time of night, been loving all the secret code and little wee hints, got my ass handed to me at the start of the year, was my first time with a silver can, and I don't know what the competition was doing but they were doing it right, now my ass wasn't handed to me due to bad driving or inconsistency as my consistency was far superior to most, the other cars just had way more speed, it was laughable, and a great entrance into competetive silver can racing. Anyway after some good reading, I was loving the post on the dropping of the motor onto the workbench, then the follow up of tapping on the concrete, loved this, I always wanted to find out how to achieve this outcome without having to open the can, for anyone that wants some good info, look into "Air Gaps" relating to magnetic fields in iron cores.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:39 AM   #1687
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What are you talking about? Your higher than Giraffe Pussy the name of the game is to be faster than the next guy and like minimadman said if you have to cars that are setup well and both drivers drive the same then I want to be the guy with the faster motor. Hence the term "Racing" Thats like saying I don't know why people want to make more money at there job the6y should just make enough to pay there bills and nothing more. As far as saying "all you can do is clean the motor after you run it" I wish all my competition thought this way.
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Laughing so hard I had to stop reading. Oh well I will resume again tomorrow.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:42 AM   #1688
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You can also use a tool to push the brushes away from the comm and break-in the bushings with a metal polish/ dremmel tool first and then allow the brushes to hit the comm and mineral dip @ 2 -3 volts.
The pushing the brushes away from the comm keeps the motor from arching.
No ugly comm.
What tool is that? And do you have a pic of the tool and/or in action on the motor? What are you using for your voltage source?
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:43 PM   #1689
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Found this in a video about silver cans. It was in screen only for a few frames. Interesting.

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Old 10-28-2013, 10:43 PM   #1690
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double post
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Last edited by monkeyracing; 01-20-2014 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:20 PM   #1691
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Found this in a video about silver cans. It was in screen only for a few frames. Interesting.

http://www.rccartips.com/540-silvercan-motor-tuning.htm
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:15 AM   #1692
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When using this silvercan in a ta05 is there any advantage to a front spool or should I stay with front ball diff. Racing on carpet track
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:26 PM   #1693
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When using this silvercan in a ta05 is there any advantage to a front spool or should I stay with front ball diff. Racing on carpet track
It won't make a difference. Using a Silvercan won't change the criteria any.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:50 AM   #1694
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Over the years, I figured out or learned from others an awful lot of tricks with silver cans. I still believe proper break-in, and a few adjustments are really the key items to making one really work. Magnet zapping always eluded me, as I don't think I've even seen a magnet zapper in person and it seems kind of cheat-y anyway.

One thing I've never figured out is how to open a motor can, without it being really, really obvious. In fact, the few times I have opened a motor up, it involved a Dremel or a hacksaw, thereby totally destroying the thing.

So, given these facts and based on the idea that silver cans are now the dodos of the RC world, will someone please tell me how to open a motor can cleanly? Pictures? Video?
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:12 AM   #1695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Found this in a video about silver cans. It was in screen only for a few frames. Interesting.


the schematic was done by one of the more veteran and fastest racers here...

this was useful for a time back here until we all realized that with the newer crop of silvercans coming out, the motors run the fastest the 1st time around. from then, we ditched the whole tuning and breaking-in thing and just bot a new one if we wanted to gain a few tenths...
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