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Old 06-10-2012, 09:34 PM   #1636
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I can relate to excessive play being caused by F1 cars hitting things! Here in Japan I compete in the Tamiya Challenge Cup and we use the Formula Tuned motor. It is a common thing to see the end bells come off during a race. One guy in my club glued the end bell onto the can only to have the armature punch right through the end bell on his last time out! I will use a spacer on the pinion shaft from now on as mentioned by rccardr.
Check that maybe the excessive play isn't due to the end bell deforming due to the armature bashing it in crash.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:35 PM   #1637
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Kenny, this was the thread referred to
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:59 PM   #1638
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Wow. I'm finally deleting my subscription to this thread. My plan is to run through what I've got left and never run a silver can (in a race) again.

Vaya con dios, shiny little amigo.
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:24 AM   #1639
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Is there any value in breaking in a motor that's already been run for a season in a M03 without any real break in?
I was looking at rccardr's technique here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...g-break-3.html
I assume it doesn't matter if a motor has been run before or not. The goal of seating the brushes properly still applies.
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:43 AM   #1640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler205 View Post
Is there any value in breaking in a motor that's already been run for a season in a M03 without any real break in?
I was looking at rccardr's technique here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...g-break-3.html
I assume it doesn't matter if a motor has been run before or not. The goal of seating the brushes properly still applies.
If the motor has been run in a car for a year already it is probably going to be pretty well run in.

If you peer in through the side of the motor you should be able to see how much of the brush is in contact with the comm, as you probably know the brushes are curved perpendicular to the comm when new, after some running in they will make contact with the full width of the comm, and after even more running you will have the full face of the brush making contact. The motors are quite close to the end of their life by then, but that is also when they are at their quickest!
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:55 AM   #1641
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If the motor has been run in a car for a year already it is probably going to be pretty well run in.

If you peer in through the side of the motor you should be able to see how much of the brush is in contact with the comm, as you probably know the brushes are curved perpendicular to the comm when new, after some running in they will make contact with the full width of the comm, and after even more running you will have the full face of the brush making contact. The motors are quite close to the end of their life by then, but that is also when they are at their quickest!
Most of your observations are correct, but when the full face of the brush comes into contact with the comm is when the motor is "broken in". Most motors can be run till there is almost no brush left. In fact some of these motors were fastest then.

Just a heads up for Silvercan fans. Apparently, a new Mabuchi motor is going into the kits. Do not know the part # or very much about it. A few examples were brought to the Tamiya track for testing or previewing. The motors were 10 to 20% faster revving than the Johnson. In a Mini, performance was similar to the Blackcan. At first glance, it looked like the SH and end bell and brushes looked like a Blackcan. Unfortunately, I only had the motors for a few minutes and was not one of those who were able to fit it to their own cars.
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:46 PM   #1642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Most of your observations are correct, but when the full face of the brush comes into contact with the comm is when the motor is "broken in". Most motors can be run till there is almost no brush left. In fact some of these motors were fastest then.

Just a heads up for Silvercan fans. Apparently, a new Mabuchi motor is going into the kits. Do not know the part # or very much about it. A few examples were brought to the Tamiya track for testing or previewing. The motors were 10 to 20% faster revving than the Johnson. In a Mini, performance was similar to the Blackcan. At first glance, it looked like the SH and end bell and brushes looked like a Blackcan. Unfortunately, I only had the motors for a few minutes and was not one of those who were able to fit it to their own cars.
I wonder if its the torque one that I got a while ago and they say on the box its between a silver can and tuned in performance..it was cheaper than a silver can to buy $10usd at stella models and a different nicer silver can and end bell is certainly different..I never used it as we only allow silver cans with specific part numbers and I can take some pics if anyone wants to see it?
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:06 AM   #1643
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Default New silver can from Mabuchi

Have heard of these but not yet seen one.

If they are faster revving than the standard Johnson by that much, Bob, makes a boy wonder if they are equipped with stock 27 turn armatures or something a little zippier (black cans are 23's).

If anyone has a NEW one that they'd like to give up for testing and (hopefully) performance improvement, give me a shout at [email protected].

Meanwhile, folks keep asking so we just keep bangin' out the Red Dots: TCS, 15K, F1, Full Race, you name it. Can't keep 'em in stock.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:11 PM   #1644
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I have several silver can j-johnson motors from Tamiya, is there a way to tell which side is + and which is -?? I can not find any markings on the motor itself.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:49 PM   #1645
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I have several silver can j-johnson motors from Tamiya, is there a way to tell which side is + and which is -?? I can not find any markings on the motor itself.
On the can, you'll see that one side has some tabs stamped into the can. which are used to position the magnets. The other side is smooth with a tiny square hole near the end bell. The smooth side is positive and the stamped side is negative.

Also when you first receive the motor it came with yellow and green wires. Yellow wire is + and green is -.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:00 PM   #1646
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
On the can, you'll see that one side has some tabs stamped into the can. which are used to position the magnets. The other side is smooth with a tiny square hole near the end bell. The smooth side is positive and the stamped side is negative.

Also when you first receive the motor it came with yellow and green wires. Yellow wire is + and green is -.
Mine are used motors that no longer have the wires on them, but thanks for the info on how to determine + and -.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:07 PM   #1647
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Hey Malcnz. is this the motor you mentioned from stella models?http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/54358...or-p-6276.html
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:13 PM   #1648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Have heard of these but not yet seen one.

If they are faster revving than the standard Johnson by that much, Bob, makes a boy wonder if they are equipped with stock 27 turn armatures or something a little zippier (black cans are 23's).

If anyone has a NEW one that they'd like to give up for testing and (hopefully) performance improvement, give me a shout at [email protected].

Meanwhile, folks keep asking so we just keep bangin' out the Red Dots: TCS, 15K, F1, Full Race, you name it. Can't keep 'em in stock.
You're probably right, Doc. Best guess might be a Blackcan armature in a SH can. with 0 degrees advance. That would give the rpm #'s I saw on the motor tester. Overall impression was a cheap substitute, even tho it was a faster revving motor.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:09 PM   #1649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davenz View Post
Hey Malcnz. is this the motor you mentioned from stella models?http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/54358...or-p-6276.html

yeah thats it...nice finish on it than the std silver can and definatly a different end bell which is more removable.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:20 PM   #1650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracy B View Post
I have several silver can j-johnson motors from Tamiya, is there a way to tell which side is + and which is -?? I can not find any markings on the motor itself.
Some also have a small dot, molded into the end bell next to the soldering tab. This is the positive mark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by malcnz View Post
yeah thats it...nice finish on it than the std silver can and definatly a different end bell which is more removable.
More removable... that sounds legal..
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