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Old 01-30-2012, 09:58 PM   #1561
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if the motor reach over 180 deg. does the mean the motor is junk?
can it be fix?
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:38 AM   #1562
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Not necessarily junk, but probably a little more RPM (weaker mags) and less torque. Heat also makes the brushes burn away much faster, causes the brush springs to lose a little tension. All in all, not good stuff.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:00 AM   #1563
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:03 AM   #1564
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RCCARDR, I don't believe any of us can achieve with what you are doing because it takes knowledge and then the hardware issues. I would like to comment on motor timing issues and maybe you can give us some input. Back when brush motors were more common, still is for slot cars...advancing the timing on the three pole motors could be achieve by cutting the brush into two portion, having a leading half and a tail (drag) half. The tail end was cut out so that there was only the leading half. In a three pole motor like the ones we use in R/C what this does is it changes the "timing" on the motor in relationship to the magnetic field. Electrons are being excited more before the circuit is fully complete. However, in the silver cans where the brushes are not allowed to be altered...I can't see pass the fact that the magnets are untouched to achieve this...unless we can magnetically alter its magnetic field. Any input on this or hint on this RCCARDR?
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:58 AM   #1565
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RCCARDR, I don't believe any of us can achieve with what you are doing because it takes knowledge and then the hardware issues. I would like to comment on motor timing issues and maybe you can give us some input. Back when brush motors were more common, still is for slot cars...advancing the timing on the three pole motors could be achieve by cutting the brush into two portion, having a leading half and a tail (drag) half. The tail end was cut out so that there was only the leading half. In a three pole motor like the ones we use in R/C what this does is it changes the "timing" on the motor in relationship to the magnetic field. Electrons are being excited more before the circuit is fully complete. However, in the silver cans where the brushes are not allowed to be altered...I can't see pass the fact that the magnets are untouched to achieve this...unless we can magnetically alter its magnetic field. Any input on this or hint on this RCCARDR?
Glad to see that some of my old posts were of some value to someone. You can advance timing by physically advancing the comm to the "stack". This is the "cranking" technique and is widely frowned upon. .Changing the brush by cutting is almost impossible to do without removing the end bell.

Your supposition is correct in that the only way to achieve the types of results Doc gets is to in some way alter the magnets themselves. This is fairly widely known by most veteran Silvercanners, but the devil is in the details. There are a number of ways to do this that I know of, but these are very closely guarded "secrets" and are almost never shared. For example, the methodology Doc and I use are very different, but the end results are reasonably close.

Hope this was of some help to you, but the "fun" is in developing your own methods and seeing the results of your efforts. At least it was for me and provided me with many hours of enjoyment.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:43 AM   #1566
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Not necessarily junk, but probably a little more RPM (weaker mags) and less torque. Heat also makes the brushes burn away much faster, causes the brush springs to lose a little tension. All in all, not good stuff.
make sense...thanks
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Old 01-31-2012, 01:19 PM   #1567
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question
if the motor reach over 180 deg. does the mean the motor is junk?
can it be fix?
The old timer, super-experienced guy at our track says to "run 'em near 200 degrees. They can take it."

He seems to know about everything else. So, I listen to him. I've not tried to gear up to that point yet however.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:15 PM   #1568
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Glad to see that some of my old posts were of some value to someone. You can advance timing by physically advancing the comm to the "stack". This is the "cranking" technique and is widely frowned upon. .Changing the brush by cutting is almost impossible to do without removing the end bell.

Your supposition is correct in that the only way to achieve the types of results Doc gets is to in some way alter the magnets themselves. This is fairly widely known by most veteran Silvercanners, but the devil is in the details. There are a number of ways to do this that I know of, but these are very closely guarded "secrets" and are almost never shared. For example, the methodology Doc and I use are very different, but the end results are reasonably close.

Hope this was of some help to you, but the "fun" is in developing your own methods and seeing the results of your efforts. At least it was for me and provided me with many hours of enjoyment.
Secrets?? You guys are funny...

Use a Neo magnet to alter your magnetic field.

Make sure you find the correct pole before magnitizing your cans.
Adjusting the Rpm point to where you have good torque is key!

You can find the correct pole of the motor by running it and appling
the magnet near the motor if Rpms go up you are removing magnetic field.
The rpms go down your adding.

I take some magnetic field out the back of the magnets (lightly) and then recharge (add) the front then center to correct the magnetic flux.

Watch your amp draw.
Its easy to do....

Also, clean your motor after every run with a Q-tip and then use a Fiber Glass stick to polish the comm like new.

Make keeping your motor clean a priority one!
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:21 PM   #1569
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Secrets?? You guys are funny...

Use a Neo magnet to alter your magnetic field.

Make sure you find the correct pole before magnitizing your cans.
Adjusting the Rpm point to where you have good torque is key!

You can find the correct pole of the motor by running it and appling
the magnet near the motor if Rpms go up you are removing magnetic field.
The rpms go down your adding.

I take some magnetic field out the back of the magnets (lightly) and then recharge (add) the front then center to correct the magnetic flux.

Watch your amp draw.
Its easy to do....

Also, clean your motor after every run with a Q-tip and then use a Fiber Glass stick to polish the comm like new.

Make keeping your motor clean a priority one!
No, actually, I'm the only idiot that deserves your derision. Please don't include others in your contempt. I should have said that the methodology that I use is not shared frequently, if ever.

However, if you had read my post carefully, you would have noted that I said there were a number of ways to accomplish similar results. I read your post with some interest and compliment you on your efforts. It is in no way similar to what I'm doing now, but that's a different story.

Also, I apologize to you for raising our ire with my post. It was in no way intended to do that and regret inadvertently doing so. Let's not get into some sort of pissing contest to see who's the smartest guy on this thread cause I'll concede the point that you are smarter than me and have more valuable information to share. You can join a rather large group of smarter than Granpa people.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:26 PM   #1570
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No, actually, I'm the only idiot that deserves your derision. Please don't include others in your contempt. I should have said that the methodology that I use is not shared frequently, if ever.

However, if you had read my post carefully, you would have noted that I said there were a number of ways to accomplish similar results. I read your post with some interest and compliment you on your efforts. It is in no way similar to what I'm doing now, but that's a different story.

Also, I apologize to you for raising our ire with my post. It was in no way intended to do that and regret inadvertently doing so. Let's not get into some sort of pissing contest to see who's the smartest guy on this thread cause I'll concede the point that you are smarter than me and have more valuable information to share. You can join a rather large group of smarter than Granpa people.
people act like there is only one way to achieve results. I am sure there are close to a dozen, which mine came through years of trial and error. It is not about being smart or dumb, more about being stubborn which I can identify with. . .
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Old 02-01-2012, 05:53 AM   #1571
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
No, actually, I'm the only idiot that deserves your derision. Please don't include others in your contempt. I should have said that the methodology that I use is not shared frequently, if ever.

However, if you had read my post carefully, you would have noted that I said there were a number of ways to accomplish similar results. I read your post with some interest and compliment you on your efforts. It is in no way similar to what I'm doing now, but that's a different story.

Also, I apologize to you for raising our ire with my post. It was in no way intended to do that and regret inadvertently doing so. Let's not get into some sort of pissing contest to see who's the smartest guy on this thread cause I'll concede the point that you are smarter than me and have more valuable information to share. You can join a rather large group of smarter than Granpa people.
I just wrote this post to inform racers not to affend anyone here on this form.
It all good.

I've been in racing in just about everything from radio controlled vehicles to full size vehicles.

Oval racing is my real passion.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:51 AM   #1572
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I just wrote this post to inform racers not to affend anyone here on this form.
It all good.

I've been in racing in just about everything from radio controlled vehicles to full size vehicles.

Oval racing is my real passion.
Thank you for that, and as you said, it's all good.

Let me explain why I found your post a little irritating. You started out your post in bold faced type saying "you guys are funny". Taken in context of your whole post, the implication was that we were missing a few brain cells. I hope you can understand why I don't like being called stupid.

You are right in that the only reason to post is to share information that may, or in some cases, may not be helpful. That's really for the reader to decide. The information you posted may be helpful to some and was a good post except for the opening.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:06 AM   #1573
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I just wrote this post to inform racers not to affend anyone here on this form.
It all good.

I've been in racing in just about everything from radio controlled vehicles to full size vehicles.

Oval racing is my real passion.
Some decent info,thanks. Do you clean with a plain Q-tip,ie no solution?
What is a fibreglass stick and where can i get one?
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:39 PM   #1574
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Some decent info,thanks. Do you clean with a plain Q-tip,ie no solution?
What is a fibreglass stick and where can i get one?
I clean my motor with a demel in a jar of denatured alcohol.
Let dry and clean with a Q-tip.
Oil bushings.

Next, use a fiber glass comm stick to polish commutator like new.
You can use a comm stick from Niftech or HPI.

Can't find anyone selling the fiberglass comm sticks anymore.
I'll keep looking and will post when I find them.

Niftech link -
http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=all
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:58 PM   #1575
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Thanks very much , might have a go with the magnet tricks, could you explain it in laymans terms as i got lost with the flux stuff!
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