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Old 03-17-2011, 05:09 AM   #1501
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If you must water dip, use a slave motor to drive the new motor (run the slave backwards to drive the new motor in the correct direction). DO NOT lube or use comm drops on the new motor before water dipping. Run it at 4 volts (should pull about 5-6 amps) for 2 minutes and check- it should be pretty close. Only run it until the brushes are JUST straight up and down.

Then lube and use comm drops (we like VooDoo drops) and run at 7.2 volts for 6 to 8 minutes (directly, not with a slave motor). It should be somewhere around 13-13,500RPM @ 5 volts, or 19K + @ 7.2 volts.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:15 AM   #1502
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Are there any drawbacks or advantages to breaking in a motor at a lower voltage other than the extra time it takes?
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:24 PM   #1503
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Is there a "normal" operating temp for silver cans? What is the redline temp?

We are running them in a "Bomber" class in Indy. I've got mine in a TC3 with an FDR of 6.0 (max allowed). Gangstar Body from Parma.
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:56 PM   #1504
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180F is danger zone
160F is ideal but will kill the motor after 5-6 runs
140F is pretty good and the motor will live longer
120F is undergeared
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:18 PM   #1505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deaths-a-Bitch View Post
Has any one got a good way of running in these newer CS brushes,
I have been water dipping for age's but it would be lucky if its bed in 2mm of the tip of the brush. I have not been using any comm drops just lubing the bushes.
I know what you mean... i actually wore one of these motors out and the brushes looked the same as the first day I tried to water dip it.... it was weird. Nothing I did seemed to work... higher amps and all...
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:21 PM   #1506
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Hi Guys!

My Red-Dot (Full Race) motor got knocked back by the scrutineers today - Their main concern besides the strength of the magnets was the 'CS' stamped onto the brushes - Is this normal in the Tamiya 540j's ?

One on-looker suggested the motor had been bought un-assembled, worked and then sealed to look like a standard 540j.

I'm more curious then disappointed as I still TQ'd with a standard silver-can from a Tamiya kit.

TIA!
That sucks man... they need to get with the times... almost all the newer 540-J's are CS stamped
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:00 AM   #1507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
180F is danger zone
160F is ideal but will kill the motor after 5-6 runs
140F is pretty good and the motor will live longer
120F is undergeared
Measured at the can, com, or...?

Thanks mate
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:05 AM   #1508
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Measured through the vent, at the comm. That's the hottest part of the motor. You can try through the endbell vents if the can vent holes are blocked, but it will be somewhat lower.
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:53 AM   #1509
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I also measure at the comm.
In the case of mabuchi/Johnsons like you through the lare vent holes in the can.

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:04 AM   #1510
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Can you use sewing machine oil to lube the silver can motor?
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:26 PM   #1511
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3n1?
I have used it but it tends to get gooey and pick up alot of track crap.

If you want an off the shelf oil,get some light weight Mobil 1.
A qt. will last a lifetime.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:33 AM   #1512
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3n1?
I have used it but it tends to get gooey and pick up alot of track crap.

If you want an off the shelf oil,get some light weight Mobil 1.
A qt. will last a lifetime.

"Sewing Machine Oil"

I might try Mobil 1 (any specific kind you would recommend?)
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Old 04-13-2011, 01:47 PM   #1513
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Does anyone know of a website that explains what part is what on a silver can motor ?
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Old 04-13-2011, 03:00 PM   #1514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misiek View Post
"Sewing Machine Oil"

I might try Mobil 1 (any specific kind you would recommend?)
I have used 5w20.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:54 AM   #1515
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Do a search on this thread and you'll find the results of testing we did in the Lab about various motor oils and why Mobil 1 5wt was the superior performer.

There used to be a page on the Mabuchi or Johnson web site showing an exploded view of a 540 motor. Not sure it's still up there, but worth the search.
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