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Old 05-09-2019, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
How do you get max motor temp? Do you have to put a thermocouple on the motor and hook that up to the ESC?
no the hobbywing XR10 with the WiFi module gives you all of those readings
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J

no the hobbywing XR10 with the WiFi module gives you all of those readings
But how would it know the motor temp? I'm not trying to be difficult, just very curious to see if that is an accurate reading. Unless the ESC has an optical pyrometer pointed at the motor, I just don't understand how it would know actual motor temps.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:57 AM
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many motors contain a temp sensor as part of the timing sensor board. The sensor cable carries the signal back to the esc and if your esc has data logging you can see the motor temp. I know Tekin, Hobbywing and Motiv contain temp sensors but not sure about other brands. The temp signal is called out in the spec for sensor cables so it your motor is compliant and your esc has logging you will see the signal without any modifications.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
But how would it know the motor temp? I'm not trying to be difficult, just very curious to see if that is an accurate reading. Unless the ESC has an optical pyrometer pointed at the motor, I just don't understand how it would know actual motor temps.
it’s from the sensors that are already in the motor and esc . Just do not turn off the temp in the esc program and to will have a accurate reading the esc gives you the hottest temp of the run
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J

no the hobbywing XR10 with the WiFi module gives you all of those readings
That information can be accessed through the HW program box as well.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J

it’s from the sensors that are already in the motor and esc . Just do not turn off the temp in the esc program and to will have a accurate reading the esc gives you the hottest temp of the run
I learn so much from this forum. Thank you very much!
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Old 05-09-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
If you're using a lot of push brake, then drag brake isn't likely to affect temps much.

Bingo....we all hit the brakes the same number of times per lap, close to the exact same spot, we are not on 'brake' any longer than anyone manually braking. So, my question is: How would that create any more heat than manually braking?



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Old 05-09-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OttoKrosse
Bingo....we all hit the brakes the same number of times per lap, close to the exact same spot, we are not on 'brake' any longer than anyone manually braking. So, my question is: How would that create any more heat than manually braking?
There is still transit time(drag brake comes on) when going from throttle to brake and vice versa: drag brake can turn on&off over 20 times a lap, causing a little more motor heat and more esc computations(heat). You don't want current constantly fluctuating in your circuits: it generates too much heat, for not much work done.....
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Old 05-09-2019, 02:22 PM
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I used a drag brake on my rc when I 1st changed over from brushed to brushless .But I no longer use any drag ..and to address the we all use the brakes the same amount.No we all dont thats why Im a fast guy and others are not. I use my brakes as few times as I can.
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Old 05-09-2019, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
You missed my point. <snip>
​Before, we had mod and stock. What do we have now? Mod, 10.5, 13.5. Then 17.5, 21.5, 25.5​​​​​​
No, you missed my point. Where Dan and I race, we have sportsman (21.5), stock (13.5) and mod. 21.5 is plenty fast enough and you don't need to spend a ton to remain competitive at the club level. It's also faster than the brushed stock classes it replaced.
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Old 05-09-2019, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
There is still transit time(drag brake comes on) when going from throttle to brake and vice versa: drag brake can turn on&off over 20 times a lap, causing a little more motor heat and more esc computations(heat). You don't want current constantly fluctuating in your circuits: it generates too much heat, for not much work done.....
Clearly you don't know how brushless motors work if you don't think the current is already constantly fluctuating, even at a constant speed.
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Old 05-09-2019, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
Clearly you don't know how brushless motors work if you don't think the current is already constantly fluctuating, even at a constant speed.
clearly you don't know how burt races


lol
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Old 05-09-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
clearly you don't know how burt races


lol
Oh I know, I've seen videos. Plus he never races these days as his Jeep never works.
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Old 05-09-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
Clearly you don't know how brushless motors work if you don't think the current is already constantly fluctuating, even at a constant speed.
Nobody said that the current was not already fluctuating...Drag brake makes the current fluctuate more than without drag brake, hence the increased heat, etc,....
Too much Kool Aid buddy and my Jeep 4.0L is working just fine, better than the Can Am series.....lol.....
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Old 05-09-2019, 06:20 PM
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I can never tell if he's serious of just fn with us?

20% of my brakes doing anything they want to, isn't going to heat up jack. Compared to 9 out of 11 seconds of full throttle per lap, on black carpet thicker than tall grass.

I always pre-cool my motors a few degrees before a run by spraying them with Tag body spray.
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